Wetterhorn Peak from Matterhorn Peak, looking west-southwest
Photo by Aaron Johnson

I climbed Wetterhorn again (8th? time) July 31st, and as always, it was a wonderful experience. We had the unusual benefit of climbing in flawless weather, thanks to the ongoing drought. I found myself wishing it would rain despite our plans because the San Juans are so dry. (Thankfully, it rained later in the week). We took advantage of the weather and climbed Matterhorn as well. Matterhorn is a very enjoyable scramble at the top and the summit is a jumble of boulders teetering on each other. Parts of the summit seemed rickety, as if it would all tumble upon itself. From there we dropped down some scree and blazed across the rock glacier toward Wetterhorn.

We encountered a climber who informed us that some other climbers had followed "false cairns" and ended up on a tough scree scramble to regain the route near the top of the ridge. Well, in my opinion, there is no right or official way to climb Wetterhorn's standard route. That's what I like about the mountain. It can be climbed differently each time. However, if you're pressed for time, the trick is to stay near the top of the ridge along the many cairned routes available.

To test my own recall, I led our party up the route as I remembered it from two years ago, and it went well and quick. The climber's trail ascends through the gray and orange sections of the ridge, then levels out on the west side of the ridge as it enters the rock climbing section. Follow this trail, which climbs grandually until it comes up against a rock rib running down the west side. From here, a tempting downclimb to a notch with cairns in it will beckon you. This gets you around the ridge, but puts you in a position to have to do considerable climbing through loose stuff. Again, this is fine if you desire this.

Notch at the top of the first rib
Photo by JCantu1044

I prefer to stay near the top or on top of the ridge. We climbed along the ridge through good terrain and lots of good climbing moves to another notch in an alcove near the top of the ridge. You downclimb about six feet as you pass through the notch. Again, many cairns will beckon.

Climbing that leads up to the top of a second rib and "the zig-zag" move
Photo by Colin Pence

Contour upward on a route you find desireable toward the top of another rock rib. You'll end up in an enclave of rock, but it is not a dead end. Climb up this solid pitch where you can "zig-zag" up through a very fun class 3 stretch. A fall could bang you up, but there are plenty of handholds and I've never seen anyone even slip on this part. You zig up to the right about 10 feet, then zag about four feet to the left, then climb straight up about 8 feet. From here, you are level with the base of the Shark's Tooth, to which you stroll, and approach the final pitch that everyone writes about, and first-timers anticipate with uncertainty.

Climb over this obstacle to get in position for the famed final pitch
Photo by JCantu1044

Go past the Shark's Tooth and climb up a 10 foot wall. Once on the wall, hang on to the mountain on your right if you feel the need to as you ascend the wide and smooth ramp to a two foot wide ledge. Exposure bothers some folks at this point. From this ledge, the climb becomes perpendicular.

Climbing the final pitch, with the starting ledge below
Photo by Jim Lierman

The final pitch remains in great shape and is a joy. It is straight up near the top, but there are plenty of fun and safe variations. Coming down, go a bit north of where you gain the summit. A cairn may be there. Keep focused on what you're doing and inch your way down (30ft?) to a ledge to access the main gully you climbed up. I noticed two ledges here, we used the higher one, both will work. This gets you past the steep pitch immediately below the summit for the downclimb, but keep your mind on what you're doing as there is much air here. You'll re-enter the final pitch gully about 1/4 of the way down.

Beginning the final pitch
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Wetterhorn is a fun and incredible mountain. Climb it however you want, but enjoy it and be safe!

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