West Ridge route, looking east
Photo by Kane

The route is cairned and obviously well travelled. We followed the route which initially dances along the south side of the ridge, then gains the top. Dropping to the north side, the trail climbs and gains altitude quickly. From our cars to where the climbing section begins, it was just under three hours. Younger folks will do this ridge at a much faster pace.

At this point, I must stress that there are a number of ways to do this route. People who enjoy climbing may want to try the many Class 4 options that present themselves. They would be perfectly good choices. This report deals with how our group chose to climb this route.

Scrambling on the West Ridge Route
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Once the climbing begins, the route swings over to the south side briefly, then back to the north. There are a number of initial up and down sections, but there is never a need to drop more than 100 feet below the ridge during this final climbing section. Staying high is the way to go if you are comfortable with the terrain. The ridge top would certainly involve Class 4 climbing and exposure.

Scrambling on the north side of the ridge
Photo by Aaron Johnson

While on the north side, a fun and steep climb up a chute to a ledge system leads through a notch or two. A downclimb followed over solid rock into a loose gully, perhaps the one I've read several accounts on. In bad weather, this could be dangerous, but we managed to get through it by staying high and placing only one step in the actual loose stuff in this narrow and steep chute.

Jim Lierman maneuvers a potentially slick spot if conditions aren't ideal
Photo by Aaron Johnson

We then stepped down over some slick grey rock on the other side, again a bit tricky (probably perilous if wet), but we got through it fine. From there, another steep climb on the north side of another tower followed over loose rock and gravel that improved as we climbed once again to better rock.

Rock tower and choices to be made
Photo by pphlux

This eventually led to our route finding exercise. A steep Class 4 option on the north side of the tower presented itself on very sound rock. Or, we could go through a notch to the south side on what appeared to be a well travelled route that drops quite a distance. From this spot, we could not determine how far down it went. Being the so-called leader, I did what good leaders do and I delegated Ellen to scout ahead on this south side option. As she checked that possibility out, I saw another short Class 4 option that climbed right out of the notch that probably would have worked well, except that some of our group would not have been comfortable with the brief but serious exposure. Either of these Class 4 options may be what Roach referred to as "climbing directly."

IU Trekkers on the south side of the tower
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Ellen then reported that there was a good route up a scree gully leading to the next challenge. I checked it out. This involved downclimbing eighty feet an obvious shelf route where one can scramble in the safety of rock cradling what would normally be an exposed side. This was easy Class 3 climbing.

Jim Lierman descends from the tower to the gully
Photo by Aaron Johnson

The climb back up to a notch was about fifty feet, in nice deep scree. Staying at the base of the rock formation we were skirting afforded many holds to get up ths section (Class 2+). This gully was not dangerous or any worse than any other rubble filled gully found on just about every mountain in the state.

From here it was a fun scramble to the top of the last obstacle, where we scurried over fun white steps to the summit and met the others that came up the standard route. Total time: right at 4 hours (a smaller group will do much better). After our little celebration, we dropped down the south side of the mountain directly back to the parking area. This took longer than anticipated. Very nice deep scree led to a scambling dance on the bottom two thirds of the slope. This was on large boulders, half of which moved just looking at them. I expected this slope to be unpleasant, but it did get us down quickly in terms of distance. I would recommend dropping slightly southwest from the summit, first down a rocky ridge, then onto steep tundra slopes just west of a broad and shallow gully, on a southward course toward the reservoir. This route is obvious from the parking area and would bottom out just west of the dam. The tundra is very steep, but it would be better than all of that loose rock on the east flank. Returning the West Ridge is feasible, if you are comfortable with that option. It is certainly a good option if you like a full day's climbing.

West Ridge Overview from Atlantic-Pacific saddle
Photo by Doug Shaw

To sum up the West Ridge: For some, the exposure may be a factor, but these moments were usually on solid rock with lots of holds and was not at all difficult for our group, which is experienced in Class 3 & 4 climbing. Route finding is more like route choices. The way most folks go is obvious, and the difficulty does not exceed moderate Class 3 (for what that's worth). Following the safest path of those before is not difficult and exposure is moderate if you have experience in this level of climbing. You could choose to execute some Class 4 moves (probably fun if you prefer exposed climbing on solid rock), which in my opinion, were generally higher than the travelled route. The loose gullies weren't unusual, although the sprinkling of loose material over the route was a bit unexpected. As Roach suggests, do not loose your respect for this route. Loose rock is a concern, and getting in over your head could get you into trouble.

West Ridge Overview from Wheeler MountainPhoto by sisyphus

If you desire to attempt this route, do it with someone experienced in Class 3 climbing or has done this route before. If you have climbed the Keyhole, Arapaho Peaks, Sneffles (Class 3) or any other Class 3 route, you'll find this route equal or not quite as difficult. If you're looking to improve your skills in climbing and route finding, this is a good exercise, a sensible step toward the Sawtooth Route (Bierstadt to Evans), Kelso Ridge or Wetterhorn Peak.

Why have people fallen off of this route and died? What mountain that offers a challenge hasn't had injuries or deaths? We never hear the real details of such unfortunate events, which is too bad. We all could learn from these events and possibly prevent further incidents. My guess weather and conditions were factors, but possibly the most important factor was experience. Someone without experience got into trouble. They may have overestimated their abilities or underestimated the mountain, they may not have done enough research or talked to other climbers about the route (and for that the Internet is a Godsend). They may have tried it alone.

West Ridge Route TOPO diagram-click for more info
Edit and embellishments by Aaron Johnson

The West Ridge route is not a difficult undertaking. It is a fun and sensible route, that if climbed correctly and safely within the abilities of the climber(s), can be a totally engaging and successfull climb. So I'll close with the obvious: Do not attempt in questionable weather, do not attempt without proper prior experience under the guidance of someone who has experience, and do not climb alone unless you are very experienced or have done the route before.

Photos of the group climbing this route are available for your viewing in the photos section. They may help you decide if the West Ridge approach of Quandary is right for you. One thing's for certain: my opinion of Quandary has changed. What a fun mountain!

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