We departed Salida at 4:00 a.m. We were on the trail at 6:00 a.m. After passing through a forest grove, the trail emerges into a clearing southbound, where we hung a left to start up the Willow Creek drainage. The drainage, however, is not directly accesible. From this point, switchbacks were counted, since we heard there were lots of them. This later turned out to be useful in knowing where we were in relation to the entire route upon our return. The trail climbs up over a ridge covered in a forest, crossing to the south slope where vistas of lovely clearings are seen below, and the towering ramparts of the northwest end of the Challenger ridge rises abuptly above. The trail blazes eastward, contouring, passing through occasional switchbacks, which were counted in our tally.

The trail winds through the forest, climbing steadily. Switchbacks become more frequent. Just below the basin containing Willow Lake, the trail climbs through some rocky areas through many switchbacks, soon winding through marshy areas just before reaching the lake itself. The trail continues up the valley along the north side of scenic Willow Lake and climbs the slope to clear the cliffs on the east shore. From here, we angled south, crossing the stream that empties into the lake about 160 feet below.

Kit Carson is visible from here, flanked in the foreground by the steep northeast slopes and cliffs of Challenger. Many folks continue south up the valley before ascending Challenger's slopes, as was evident in our descent. However, this option climbs through very steep and loose terrain, which would be an inconvenient struggle (Class 2 & 3, depending on your choices). We opted for the great tundra ramp closer to the north end of the ridge. It is immediately apparent as you start south from above Willow Lake. This is a very steep and unrelenting climb (Class 2), gaining almost 2,000 feet in about a half mile. This stretch was quite demanding, and we took several breaks in what took almost two hours to ascend.

Near the top, a false trail to the right took us to a spectacular overlook (Class 3), but the actual trail climbs steeply left through some fun escarpments (Class 3). It was obviously a well travelled option that went well. For a short time, we were on the west side of Challenger's ridge. We crossed two very interesting gullies that were made up of the typical Sangre De Cristo conglomerate cement. The second gully (Class 2) was unusually smooth, with no knobs. A well-worn foot path was evident in the crossing, which traverses an impressive maw guarded by towering monoliths of stone. Though not really steep, crossing this section in wet conditions could be treacherous, and the fall could be formidable. The San Luis Valley is almost 6000 feet directly below you here, so it seems worse than it is.

After this gully, we climbed up onto the ridge proper (Class 2+), which is a pleasant jaunt (Class 2) to the summit of Challenger. Crossing through a notch, you intersect what is becoming the standard version of the West Ridge Route (which I do not recommend-see below). The climb out of the notch is Class 2 or Class 3, depending on your fancy. From Challenger, you can study your quarry in partial detail. Kit Carson Avenue will be apparent, a ramping ledge running from the Challenger saddle up to the top of the Prow. The downclimb to the saddle is easy (Class 2). Then the fun and interesting part of the route begins.

Walk up Kit Carson Avenue. The ledge is wide and has tundra in places, along with sandy places due to traffic of humans and animals. At the high point of the Avenue, you're at the top of the Prow, a great, towering corner formation that runs from the summit all the way down to the valley, well over a thousand feet. Dramatic pictures can be taken from here. We were greeted by a solitary bighorn sheep, who was apparently put out by our intrusion. So he shot up the side of a cliff to take his leave.

The Avenue continues around the summit block, now on the south side and heading steeply downward. The ledge is still wide and easily travelled. As prescribed in Roach's book, we climbed down to the start of the final pitch, a couloir that climbs to the summit. Due to foot traffic and erosion, this couloir (easy Class 3) has lots of loose material, but the angle is not steep until you get near the top. We noticed another gully on our way down the Avenue though, that looked very climable and more appealing. On our descent, we took that gully down, which was a bit steeper but had less loose rock and we didn't have to drop as far down to the Avenue.

Kit Carson's summit was ours to enjoy. We saw one other person coming down at the Challenger saddle. He had climbed the northeast ridge route. Other than that wandering soul, we saw no one else that glorious day. The tundra ramp, gaining Challenger's ridge, dropping to the saddle, the Avenue and final pitch all added up to a very long day. We stayed on top for 45 minutes to eat and regain our strength. We were pretty pooped, but we were essentially only half way there. Much work in getting back to Point A was ahead of us, and we knew we'd be hiking out of the forest in darkness.

We descended the western couloir (easy class 3) back to the Avenue, and climbed back up to the Prow. After such a long and demanding climb, this reclimb of the Avenue seemed to drain our energy quickly. I decided I would do my best not to gain any more altitude. At Challenger's saddle, rather than regaining Challenger, we decided to contour across Callenger's northeast slope to save some energy and effort. This was a good choice. We made good time, essentially crossing the slope in a straight line. We gained just a touch of altitude because of some instability in the slope. The lower you go, the steeper and more unstable it is. We intersected the ridge top briefly, before coming to the notch which we dropped into.

From this notch, a gully extends down the NE face of the mountain. It is filled with loose rubble, but it's obvious folks have used the route up and down. We descended this route, quickly exiting the north side of the gully and descending steep, loose slopes (Class 2). (See below for an important update on the condition of this route). About a third of the way down, we ended up on steep tundra along a great rock wall. Shadows were getting long and the end of the day was fast approaching. Nonetheless, we had to stop and rest and take in major nourishment before continuing.

We departed from our rest stop just above Willow Lake at 4:00. We blazed down the trail as fast as two old climbers could manage. Below the lake, we started counting switchbacks. Our last hour was hiked through patches of forest in darkness. Clearings weren't much brighter, since the moon wouldn't rise for hours. Jim stumbled in the darkness a couple times, and one of our light batteries petered out, leaving us one light to briskly hike by. Jim put me in front to warn him of obstacles, a good plan that worked most of the time. We got back to the car at 8:00. We returned to our Salida digs (furnished by our climbing partner MA-thanks MA!) at 10:00.

We had planned some climbs of the mountains north of Waterdog Lakes up on Monarch Pass the following days, but the Kit Carson climb really leveled us. We managed a mellow two mile hike two days later, and then decided to call it a trip and go home.

To review, and provide advice for those that follow:

1. Start as early as you can. A late start could sabotage your effort and definitely result in night hiking.

2. Be in very good shape. This is a long day. Some Class 2+ or Class 3 experience is recommended, and major stamina.

3. No camping is allowed around Willow Lake within 300 feet. If you plan to camp, the higher the better. You will need to carry all of your gear up 61 switchbacks, but you'll enjoy the trip more by enjoying the area. Above Willow Lake, assess the conditions of the mountain. Do not continue in questionable weather, or if there is a lot of snow and ice. Without proper gear (ice axes, pro and rope), this route in winter conditions can be treacherous and become a technical challenge quickly, particularly on Kit Carson Avenue, where a fall would be unstopped and immediately fatal. The Sangres are known for
ferocious winds, which would make this climb a long, miserable nightmare.

4. Climb the tundra ramp up to Challenger's ridge for solid climbing. The gully crossings on the west side near the top are solid and mildly exposed. They could be dangerous in wet conditions. The other route is steep, loose and much more trouble to climb than descend, but it bypasses the gullies. I have uploaded a map picture. The blue line is our descent route. See updates below.

5. Ascend the summit from the Avenue via the standard gully, or a steeper but more solid western gully, which means not having to drop so far down on the Avenue before your final pitch. Guard against the temptation to ascend from the Avenue too soon, or you'll end up in technical terrain. This is a long route, but judicious choices should keep difficulties to Class 3.

6. Stay high if you contour across the NE face of Challenger to avoid unstable slopes and cliffs below.

7. If attempting in one day, be sure your lights and batteries are ready for the task. Camping out is physically demanding as well, but it breaks up the physical demand over a larger period of time.

8. There is plenty of water to access in the Willow Creek drainage. Above Willow Lake, there is no water on the mountain, so be filled up since the actual climb of the mountain is a long endeavor.

Kit Carson is an amazing mountain, and certainly a stand-out in my overall climbing experience. Do not take the proposition lightly, though. Go prepared and informed, and you will thoroughly enjoy this massive and impressive mountain. Have fun climbing and be safe.

SP members Cruzit and Saintgrizzly descend Challenger ridge in impending weather
SP Members Summer Gathering at Kit Carson Mountain, Colorado. July 24, 2004
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

UPDATE 2004

SP members Cruzit, Saintgrizzly, Aaron Johnson and Alan Ellis head for camp above Willow Lake
2004 Summer SP Members Gathering at Kit Carson
Photo by SP member ATTM

SP members (circled) Andy and Attm ascend Kit Carson's Northeast Ridge Route (seen from the West Ridge Route)
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

Vern, Ellen, and me climbed up the purple route , meeting Cruzit, who climbed Alan's route and met us at the notch. We had some fresh hail on the mountain, so I decided to skip the gullies of the route I discuss in this report above. The mountain had been receiving steady and generous amounts of monsoon moisture. With the melting going on, this route, which is becoming the route preferred by most climbers, was rapidly becoming an unstable hazard.

SP member mtnhiker13 poses near the abyss of Challenger's southwest face
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson

The four of us climbed Challenger. Vern's feet were suffering, Cruzit was worn out and the weather was threatening. We descended the same route. In a narrow enclave, repeated traffic through some deep scree that was water logged set me up for a potential disaster. As I stepped into this deep scree behind a large boulder, the boulder tipped forward downslope. About the size of a small chair and weighing around three hundred pounds, this tipping boulder could cause some real damage if allowed to fall.

I'm usually pretty good at stopping moving rocks. I've even caught them as they fall (only a foot or two, mind you!). But this was a massive rock, but at least it had a convient knob I could grab as a handle as it tipped away from me. However, holding it or stopping it from the inevitable tumble was not possible. As I pulled the knob back, the saturated scree ran out from underneath it. I would either have to let it go, or try to tip it into the mountain and hang on in the unlikely hope that I could stop it from launching down the mountain. The weight of the rock made the second option impossible. Either it was going to roll down the mountain on its own or take me with it.

I made sure the score of other climbers were out of the way. Everyone saw that I had an impossible situation literally in hand and cleared to either side of the enclave. I said "okay, here it goes."

I released the boulder just before it pulled me from my stance. I thought it would slide in the scree and just grind to a stop about twenty feet below. Much to my and everyone else's horror, it toppled and went careening down the mountain in a spectacular crash. Everyone yelled ROCK as loud as possible repeatedly. I stood and watched helplessly as this TV sized boulder caused a fearsome calamity of dust and clatter as it thundered down the mountain for two thousand feet. A hail of dust and smaller rocks rumbled behind it. I saw more climbers below dodging for safety. The mountain side was wrapped in confusion and mayhem. The boulder could be seen coming to a stop in a pile of boulders on the tundra far below. It was all too aparent that this sort of thing happens in this area on a routine basis.

I was assured by those around me that I had done the right thing, and ultimately there was nothing else I could do. I know they are right, but I still feel responsible for what happened. I apologized to the climbers below, explaining the situation. They were very understanding, knowing that mountaineering is an inherently dangerous activity and such situations cannot be avoided or controlled. Responsible or not, and even so, it was clear there were too many people on the mountain for the conditions. In wet conditions, this route up the northeast face of Challenger is incredibly dangerous.

ASCENT ROUTES TO CHALLENGER RIDGE--RED: Recommended Route PURPLE: Popular but hazardous optional route
Digital photo and annotation by Aaron Johnson

I therefore recommend that the SAFER ALTERNATIVE to climbing Challenger is to ascend the tundra ramp route (red route)discussed above, which is also recommended by Gerry Roach. It is certainly the more solid of the two options and only takes thirty minutes more to do.

I do not recommend the increasingly popular northeast face route (purple route) except in a quick descent situation when there are but a few other climbers on the mountain. This route when heavily populated is a dangerous and potentially deadly situation waiting to happen.

A possible third alternative is a route recently executed by SP members Cruzit & Alan Ellis, illustrated here. Expect solid but exposed Class 3 or 4 climbing, depending on your specific route choices.

DO NOT ASCEND EITHER ROUTE in exceedingly wet conditions! If you MUST execute one of these routes, the tundra ramp option discussed in this report is the recommended alternative.

UPDATE 2007

Images