| 7 Days In The San Juans Trip Report |
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| 7 Days In The San Juans   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.92280°N / 107.425°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 31, 2003 | Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Sep 21, 2003 / Mar 12, 2006 Object ID: 169088 Hits: 1037 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
This report gives recommendations on places to stay, various tips on eateries, routes and personal reflections on climbing six mountains in Colorado’s San Juan Range. For specifics concerning the routes and climbs, click on the links provided in the text.
LAKE CITY
We arrived late on a Friday night, staying at the Gingerbed Bed and Breakfast. This wonderful Victorian house is full of charm and character, and it was our home away from home for four days. Darwin is the B&B owner and host, and he’s an excellent cook. These are some of the best breakfasts I’ve had anywhere. On two of the days we were on the trail long before Darwin was up, but he left some food out for us anyway, fully understanding our need to be up as early as possible, having climbed the mountains himself. At the end of each day, we soaked in the hot tub on the back deck, allowing us to recover from the aches and pains lingering after some challenging climbs. Darwin’s Gingerbed and Breakfast comes highly recommended if you’re planning to stay in Lake City.
REDCLOUD AND SUNSHINE
I had climbed Redcloud three times and Sunshine twice, so I wasn’t about to climb them again unless it was by another route. In aiding Ellen’s quest of climbing the 14ers, I agreed to this endeavor if we could climb Sunshine first via the Mill Creek route. Having read about the route in Gerry Roach’s book, and driven by the supposed trailhead many times and seeing nothing, the route for me was shrouded in mystery. Where the hell did it start and where did it go? Looking at Sunshine’s massive south slopes, a route up through that maze of cliffs and forests seemed implausible, but it could be very interesting.
Reading Wayne Afflick’s East Ridge route on SummitPost was the final straw that turned my interest in the route into execution. His mentioning that there was no trail made me wonder if there really was an official route, and Roach’s text was no help, either.
So indeed we were wrapped in our own confusion upon arrival at the Mill Creek campground. East of the campground entrance is a clearing on the north side of the road that eventually leads to Cinnamon Pass. A sign is posted on a log at where an old jeep road used to lead north into the forest. The sign says “no mechanized travel,” so we thought this was the trailhead. But the Roach text said to walk across the road from the campground and head into the forest. So we went back to the campground and parked. Having spotted a scant trail by a telephone pedastel box, I took on the responsibility of saying that this was the trailhead. If it wasn’t and it led nowhere, I would make it up to Ellen by taking her up the 14ers on the standard route. So if you’re looking for a big sign that says “the trail starts here,” this isn’t the route for you.
The trail is sketchy and practically fades to nothing shortly after the start. I kept a sharp eye out for cairns and tried to imagine being the first person to forge a route up this convoluted south face of Sunshine. What would make the most sense? After an eastward stroll through a long, grassy meadow, we came to the end of a rock ramp and some cairns that marked the way back to the west up this ramp. From there, the route was well marked, and in the trees, evidence of foot travel also led the way. The forest service had nothing to do with the development of this route. It is steep and direct, and only the trees protect it from eroding at an accelerated pace. I half expected these steep conditions. It was hard on the ankles and calve muscles, but we gained altitude quickly. Despite the seeming wandering around the route does, on a map, the route makes sense and is a sensible path to timberline.
As mentioned in the Sunshine-Redcloud Route Emporium, I can’t stress the importance enough about the tree clusters above timberline. It is imperative that these tree clusters are utilized for navigation, particularly on your return, if you are to execute this route successfully. Any type of variation would leave you at the mercies of the forest, steep slopes and cliffs that guard Sunshine Peak so well. From reading his text on the East Ridge Route, it is possible SP member Wayne Afflick was on another route or improvised until he was out of the trees. But there is in fact a route, well marked, and it’s steep and interesting.
Above timberline, the route is obvious and straightforward. You don’t see Sunshine once you emerge from the trees on this route, but you simply bear west, between the two tree clusters. Once you reach the top of the slope, Sunshine becomes visible and the route is obvious. Being careful to descend between the tree clusters to the exact point where you emerge out of the trees will keep you out of any possible confusion.
This is a fun route, if you’re used to climbing in the San Juans and know what to expect. The route was physically demanding, and for the first climb of our vacation, it pretty much ran Ellen through the ringer. Doing both Redcloud and Sunshine on this route is a long day. The hardest part is toward the end of the day, when your route finding skills are required to retrace your steps back down the steep slopes and talus fields in an efficient manner. Without high top boots for ankle support, this descent would be a nightmare.
The route is not for everyone, particularly beginners. But for seasoned San Juan climbers, it’s recommended. It’s fast, efficient and solitary. As everyone was heading back from Sunshine, they were quite surprised to see us, having also seen us on Sunshine’s summit, heading BACK for Sunshine’s summit! We were the only ones to use the Mill Creek route that day, and we were glad we did. For the bulk of the day, we felt we had Sunshine to ourselves. And now I can say that I “feel” that I’ve really climbed Sunshine Peak, rather than having just walked it from another conveniently located 14er.
REDCLOUD
We encountered a couple on top of Sunshine that had climbed Sunshine and Redcloud via the alternate descent route. This is no small task, since to acquire the ridge between the two mountains means slogging up notoriously steep San Juan scree and talus. Nevertheless, they enjoyed their climb and the solitude, and were going to descend the standard route. I congratulated them and advised them that had they done the whole thing in reverse, it would have been enjoyable and efficient.
A now toppled sign states that these slopes should not be descended because of dangerous terrain below. This is certainly the case for beginners not fully versed in scree and talus or “reading” mountains. But with the help of experienced climbers, beginners can learn “San Juan talus skiing” on this route in relative safety, as well as route finding while avoiding the dangerous terrain the sign refers to.
Much confusion continues about the routes down the west slopes of the Redcloud-Sunshine massif, even at SP. This report will not see much traffic, thus the confusion will continue. A photo has been uploaded depicting the routes. The one closer to Sunshine has obviously been ascended before, which is fine, but undoubtedly more work than what it’s worth. Both routes work well for descents, with the one closer to Sunshine being the most expedient. I’ve descended this route twice, once with beginners that Vern and I met on top. The trick is to stay high on the slope at first to avoid obstacles below, then angle down toward the spotty tundra in the drainage.
By adding this material to SP, I do not need to respond to further inquires with a written description of the route, because it’s now on SP. A simple reference with links will do.
UNCOMPAHGRE PEAK
This was my 6th climb of Uncompahgre. I have always enjoyed this mountain, and it has always been kind to me, even in bad weather. We made great time despite the grueling day before. We were up and down in under 5 hours, and that was staying on the trail the entire time. I used to take short cuts, but my conscience this time around dictated otherwise, knowing this easy but beautiful mountain was receiving more traffic than ever. The 200 feet of Class 2 climbing up the west side was further evidence that Uncompahgre was falling tame to human traffic. The section had always looked wild, loose and untraveled. It now has several well worn paths, one of them new, and all are mostly free of loose rock. This section climbs quickly and is of no consequence except to the careless and inexperienced.
We met a fine young man from North Carolina on the summit. He was very passionate about climbing the 14ers, not just in Colorado, but in California as well. He tended to talk too much, but his love of the mountains and his enthusiasm for climbing was genuine. Thankfully, he carried on his endless conversation with other unsuspecting folks arriving on the summit. He marveled at their experience. One guy had climbed Uncompahgre twice! Our friend from North Carolina was impressed. He then asked me how many times I had climbed the mountain. He was in total awe at my answer. He then asked if I had climbed Wetterhorn. Yes. 8 times. He was stunned. And Sneffels? Yes. 8 times. Before divulging my life experience, we were off, leaving the other unsuspecting climbers to carry on the conversation.
WILDHORSE PEAK
I climbed Wildhorse back in the 80s, and it had not changed one iota since then. A refreshing perspective compared to the 14ers. Wildhorse remains a wild peak in a wild place, visited by maybe 30 folks a year. We really enjoyed the mountain, its incredible view and wonderful solitude. If there’s a mountain loaded with character, Wildhorse is it. This character is immediately evident even from the Uncomahgre Valley far below, or any other San Juan summit. On the mountain, it’s up close and personal as Wildhorse divulges its many secrets. Wild formations, pinnacles, massive exposure and blessed solitude. Wildhorse represents the true spirit of the San Juan.
We took a slightly different route, following the Horsethief Trail. Crossing the vast expanse of tundra known as American Flats, we lost very little altitude, reaching the low spot just before the mountain itself. The other route from Engineer Pass goes just as well, but much more altitude must be gained on the return. Being a bit older, I found the Horsetooth Trail more suitable, particularly after having climbed 3 14ers. Newly placed signs (new to me, anyway) are encountered, indicating the many options available to the backpacker. I am now further inspired to do some of the Horsethief trail from the Ouray terminus and visit the Bridge of Heaven, which I hear is very impressive. The Horsethief Trail is part of a very large network of trails in the area. The Horsethief Trail is almost an impressive 30 miles long, and most of it is above timberline. This is a big chunk of mountain country, and Wildhorse is right in the middle of it. Hence the solitude, the wildness of this place and the true spirit of the San Juan residing here. And this is why Wildhorse remains one of my most treasured San Juan summits. As a testament to this, I converted the Engineer Mountain page at SP to the Wildhorse-Engineer page, validating both summits in the process.
OURAY
We stayed in Ouray at one of my favorite places, the St. Elmo Hotel Bed and Breakfast. As usual, the accommodations and food were excellent, and the Bon Ton Restaurant (Italian) in the hotel’s basement was in its usual top form. However, the St. Elmo’s hot tub was not working. Our bodies needed this therapy badly, having climbed four mountains in three days. So, serious points lost by the St. Elmo, but I still highly recommend it if this is your style of “camping.”
COURTHOUSE MOUNTAIN
I climbed Courthouse before, back in the 90s with climbing partners Jim Lierman and Vern Garner. We were thoroughly impressed. With my submission of the Courthouse Mountain page to SP, Ellen’s interest in the mountain led to her desire to climb it. Another peak full of San Juan character, Courthouse was a mountain I was glad to climb again. It’s just a fun mountain to climb, and for a 12er, it has a fantastic view.
We awoke to serious rain. We had some breakfast and figured we’d head up Owl Creek Pass to see if it would clear up. To the north, a patch of blue seemed to be heading our way. I felt it was worth the gamble to go to the trailhead and see what the weather does. We caught a nap in the Pathfinder for almost two hours. At noon, all grew quiet and I awoke to blue skies. In typical fall fashion, the storm had moved on and a beautiful afternoon was upon us. Any other time of year, such a late start would be madness. But in the San Juans, it was as normal as the rain itself. We started our climb of Courthouse just after lunch time.
On top we were treated with a magnificent show. A spectacular thunderstorm marched up the Uncompahgre Valley toward Ridgway. We thought for sure we’d be getting wet, so our stay on the summit was brief. During our descent, the storm hung a left and went east toward the Cimarron area and we never saw a drop. However, we were able to study with much anticipation our next day’s quarry. Right across the valley was the mysterious and magical Precipice Peak.
RIDGWAY
The next two nights were spent at the Chipeta Sun Lodge and Spa in Ridgway. We were able to soak our weary bones in their hot tub, which was also not functioning properly. Our original plan was to spend a night camping in the Cimarron for an early start on Precipice, but I made a deal with the lodge. Since their hot tub wasn’t working and that is something I paid for, I’d be glad to stay another night in exchange for a discounted rate that we enjoyed for the first night (Wednesdays must be slow for them). They agreed. Despite the jets not working, the water was hot and relaxing and certainly did the trick for our ailing muscles. As we soaked, we could view the mountains we had climbed—a very nice treat indeed. The breakfast served at this place is excellent, and we look forward to returning to this spot in paradise.
PRECIPICE PEAK
What a special mountain! I had marveled at Precipice Peak ever since I first saw it in 1978. To anyone seeing it for the first time, it looks unclimable. Guarded by towers, hoodoos and cliffs, this complex mountain’s overhanging summit is well defended from outside visitors. Over the years, not much has been written about the mountain beyond its mentioning. Only the CMC guide makes a brief note about climbing the mountain via the southwest slopes. The San Juans have many such obscure summits, but only a few have the allure, mystery and majesty to match Precipice. When the morning arrived to make my bid for the summit, I admit I had some trepidation and doubts about our success.
The challenge meets you immediately just beyond the trailhead. I have not done such serious bushwacking since attempting Potosi Peak via the Weehawken trail in 1980. Much fallen timber from a previous forest presents an entangled web of wood for climbers to navigate through. We endeavored to stay on the ridge crest and eventually came upon a suggestion of a trail. This trail, old and unmaintained, was blocked on numerous occasions by deadfall. This was the first of several clues indicating Precipice was, and probably won’t be on the hot summits destination list.
Emerging from the trees, we did find one large cairn. Several more are on the summit ridge in obvious spots, but overall, there is no route, or trail per se, to follow. This is a major part of the Precipice climbing experience, which harks back to a time when mountains were unexplored and you reached the summit with your skills as a route finder. No one had gone before to lead you. Precipice has seen visitors, and we found part of a daypack buckle to support this statement, but it’s obvious people just don’t climb this mountain regularly. Locals probably visit the mountain, but not on anything that could be called a regular schedule. This trend will no doubt continue, but this easiest and probably only official route is now a matter of record, and SummitPost can be the first to claim it.
I’ve never seen such varied terrain on a mountain. The variety is unbelievable, along with the views. Dark overhangs, collections of hoodoos, tremendous exposure and pristine wilderness are all offered in abundance. And just when you think you’ve run out of mountain and the summit cannot be reached, voila! An unlikely looking passage between two knobby spires grants unexpected access, and soon you’re walking a knobby ridge along cliffs and grottos from which you can see no bottom. One doesn’t notice it while on top, but Precipice’s namesake is the dramatic overhang upon which the summit is perched. Overall, when it comes to character, Precipice oozes with it, and it’s hard for me to think of a mountain that can match it.
Precipice was a very special experience, and I’m certain I will climb it again. I’m convinced it is enchanted as much as it is pristine, and it will remain so. The circumstances just make it that way. And that’s a good thing. It’s on SummitPost now, and that’s a good thing too. Yes, SP has the exclusive on it. We’re the first to have good documentation about Precipice on the internet. But the better thing is also a responsibility. We SP members need to promote awareness about wilderness protocols on all of these mountains, particularly the mountains like Precipice, Wildhorse and Courthouse. These mountains are not popular, and therefore remain pristine. By “advertising” them on SP, we become their stewards. It is up to us to be sure these peaks remain pristine by taking a stance for wilderness preservation on SP, or this good thing will become a bad thing, and we’ll be responsible for it.
The season is drawing to a close, but I’ve got my sights set on more awesome mountains like Precipice. The reward in climbing these mountains is getting to know them like a friend. I look forward to making many new friends, and returning to my friend of Precipice Peak some day in the future.
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San Juan Range
