| Colchuck Peak Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Elevation 8705'
Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington
May 29-31, 2004 This was Memorial Day weekend, so of course it was supposed to be rainy and cold in Portland. Trying to pick between Washington Pass and the Enchantments area, Haydar and I decided to get into the Enchantments before the permit season began. Hoping to do some ski mountaineering, we settled on Colchuck Peak via the Colchuck Glacier from Colchuck Lake. We drove to Leavenworth on Friday night and camped at the Stuart Lake trailhead. The next morning we strapped our way-too-heavy skis and boots onto our packs and headed up towards Colchuck Lake. Fortunately this is a nice trail (no bushwacking required!) and we were at the lake by lunchtime.   Two crazy people hitting the trail with skis and boots, and no snow in sight ...
Crossing a rushing creek along the trail.
Dragontail Peak towering over a small lake near Colchuck Lake. Colchuck Peak is at the very right of the picture, with the Colchuck Glacier separating the two mountains.
We set up camp by the lake and admired the view. There were clouds swirling around but every once in a while the summit of Dragontail or Colchuck would be visible. After snapping a few pictures and having lunch, we decided to scramble up Aasgard Pass and see Dragontail from the other side. This turned out to be a much steeper climb than we were expecting, and we were both out of breath when we finally made it to the top! Unfortunately there was a strong, cold wind and visibility was very low. Disappointed with the lack of any views, we headed back down towards camp. 
Aasgard Pass above Colchuck Lake. The North Face of Dragontail is on the right hand side of the photo.
The next morning we woke up to rain, so we waited around until mid-morning for the rain to temporarily stop. Although the weather was not ideal, the clouds were above the Colchuck Col and the route looked clear, so we started on our way. We hiked around to the far side of the lake, and put on our skis at the bottom of the snow-covered boulder field. 
Haydar beginning to skin up to the base of the Colchuck Glacier, above Colchuck Lake.
The skinning was very difficult due to the rain-soaked snow, and we kept sliding backwards. It couldn't have just been the snow, however - as I was slowly zigzagging my way up the hillside, I was passed by another skier heading straight up. There is definitely some technique which I am missing! We eventually made it up to the top of the hillside, near the base of the glacier. Haydar at this point had had enough of the skis, threw them down in disgust, and began powering up the mountain on foot. I was more stubborn and continued to skin along, way behind him, until I was fed up too. I took off my skis, strapped them on my pack, and climbed the rest of the way to the col. 
Climbing the glacier ...
The summit was approx another 800 vertical feet from the Colchuck Col, although we couldn't see it due to the fog and swirling clouds. After taking a break we decided to go off and search for it. This entailed some tricky scrambling over ice-covered rocks in stiff ski boots! 
Haydar scrambling up the snow-covered rocks towards the summit of Colchuck. Far below is Colchuck Col, with the steep walls of Dragontail in the background.
  Finally on the foggy summit! We tried to imagine the impressive view on a sunny day.
Of course, there was no view from the summit. We'll have to go back some other time on a clear day! A few minutes at the summit and we were ready to head back, so we retraced our steps and soon were back at the col. We were both looking forward to the descent - skiing for me and glissading for Haydar back to his skis lower on the mountain. 
Haydar glissading down from Colchuck Col.
Jim starting down from Colchuck Col on skis. This made all the ski carrying worthwhile! (Photo by H. Kutuk)
Carving some turns on the glacier (Photo by H. Kutuk).
Haydar making some final turns in the wet, heavy snow just above the lake.
The ski down made it all worthwhile. Finally at 5:30pm we were back in camp. We initially had planned to spend another night there at the lake, but visions of bratwurst and fries at Gustav's were beckoning to us, so we quickly packed up, shouldered our way-way-WAY-too-heavy packs, and cruised back to the trailhead.
Castle Rock, Leavenworth Monday we ate a big breakfast in town and then headed over to Castle Rock to climb "Midway" - a very fun 3-pitch 5.6 route. After spending two days in the snow and the rain, this relaxing climb in the sun was the perfect ending to the weekend. 
Castle Rock from the beginning of the climber's trail. Jello Tower is on the right. Midway climbs to the top of Jello Tower on the first pitch, and then to the top of Castle Rock in two more pitches.
Beginning the lead of Midway at the base of Jello Tower (Photo by H. Kutuk).
Haydar belaying the second pitch from the top of Jello Tower.
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Enchantments
