The Southeast Ridge Route of Mount Audubon in profile
Digital photos in this trip report by Aaron Johnson and Ellen Ritt

As an acting advisor to the I.U. Trekkers, my role (as I perceive it) is to come up with good hiking and climbing destinations and creative routes, not only to keep the group interested, but to increase their abilities and confidence in what they can do in the mountains. Randy and Sharon Breunlin serve as my counterparts, and between the three of us, it’s our charge to present the group a wide array of possibilities for the I.U. Trekkers schedule.

In recent years the group has certainly grown in its abilities, and this is reflected in the group’s schedule. During Jim’s early years with the Trekkers (known then as the Hoosier Hikers), the group did 4 miles of Class 1 with zero gain and called it a big day. Currently, the group climbs every weekend and is always up for a new challenge. Class 3 rock climbing has become a favorite lure to the current roster of participants, so it was no surprise when the group was ecstatic after completion of Mount Audubon’s Southeast Ridge route.

I first saw the route description right here on SummitPost. It was written by Chris Fisher, a long time SP member who I had the privilege of meeting at a gathering I hosted in November of 2003. His wording was encouraging. The ridge sounded like a great climbing exercise, with minimal chance of a fall, but offered many opportunities to increase one’s Class 3 climbing skills. Just what the trip planner ordered!

The route was placed on the schedule in early 2004, and executed July 10. As we climbed the ridge above Mitchell Lake in the staggeringly beautiful Indian Peaks Wilderness, I referred to Chris’ route only twice, not for any sort of accuracy, but to marvel at his clean and concise description. His words were right on the money in every aspect. This only reaffirmed my belief that because of its devoted members, SummitPost is THE very best mountaineering site on the ‘net.

When they first came to Colorado, Randy and Sharon Breunlin’s first climb was Mount Audubon via the standard route, the Mount Audubon Trail. Since then they have done the mountain a number of times via the standard route. To Chris Fisher’s credit, after our ascent of the Southeast Ridge, the Breunlin’s insist that Chris’ route (which was likely referenced from Gerry Roach's guide to theIPW) is the ONLY way to climb Audubon, and if they were to climb it again, this is how they would do it.

Indeed the route is a joy to climb. We left the main Mitchell/Blue Lakes trail just after a double log crossing and rounded the west side of Mitchell Lake. We scampered up some boulders to the east end of the ridge and began our ascent. This elegant ridge climbed fast and kept our interest piqued. One climbing problem after another followed, whetting the group’s appetite for more challenges that we knew were coming.

Dennis Heckman of the IU Trekkers tries some optional Class 5 climbing

Just as Chris described, the ridge narrowed to fifteen feet, then in short stretches to a width of about three feet, but the exposure, as described, was not serious. The group had done two trips to the Devils Causeway, so they handled this portion with ease. The ridge then rose some more, narrowed in earnest and then came to an abrupt halt. Leading the way, I stood on a precipice overlooking the notch we would have to climb down and through. From where I stood, it was a good 100 feet down to the saddle and the drop was abrupt and immediate.

Chris’ description stated this section was Class 3, well within the group’s abilities. Looking around, all I saw was Class 4 and 5 terrain. Ellen came up from behind and was instantly concerned that we might be in over our heads. I had faith in Chris’ description and began to look around. I wanted to find the route before the group caught up and asked their favorite question: “what do we do now?” (It’s a running joke we have. The group is very capable in route finding). Just the same, if the route was going to dead end us, I wanted to be the first to know it.

I climbed down the right side of the pinnacle and maneuvered out on large, stable rock ledges about fifteen feet below the perch. Holds were a bit smaller than the group had been doing recently, but everything was practically bombproof. A nice and cozy dihedral, similar to the one to gain the Citadel’s east summit appeared directly below me. Aside from some newer members, the group would handle this quite well as it was a familiar type of obstacle.

I slithered down this dihedral to the ledge below, then scrambled further down and removed my pack. I then climbed back up to the ledge at the base of the dihedral. Ellen once again raised her concerns as the exposure was a bit daunting for our newer members. I countered that if it wasn’t here, it would be elsewhere that they would eventually have to deal with this type of climbing. Particularly since a big goal for some of the group is to climb Longs Peak, this spot was as good as any to engage in more Class 3 practice.

By then, the group had arrived and were amazed at what they were going to do next. Ellen climbed down past me and grabbed the camera to snap some great action photos. Whenever they needed it, I talked the Trekkers through their moves down the dihedral, occasionally grabbing their boot and directing their foot to a crack, nook or ledge. Everyone did very well. Our newer members were brave despite the natural fears we’ve all had at one time and made their way through the obstacle. Perhaps their hearts were pounding a bit harder, but it was as Chris had said in his description. It was just the exercise they needed to expand their skills and prepare for later challenges in the season.

Once in the notch, the fun was not over. More wonderful Class 3 terrain beckoned. We climbed out of the notch in a straight line led by my daughter Shanna over very steep tundra and excellent, solid rock. Dennis, being a very able climber, had negotiated the down climb with grace and had gravitated toward some class 5 terrain, which he was enjoying. The entire group did exceedingly well on this stretch. Once out of the notch and on a southern shoulder just below Audubon’s summit, we took a break for food and drink. The group marveled at what they had just climbed, looking down on the ridge, the notch and their very vertical climbing route.

There were lots of happy faces and big smiles the rest of the way up the mountain. We strolled to the top under some interesting clouds that never seemed to get organized enough to cause a threat. The weather was cooperating, the temperature was cool and it was a great day for hiking and climbing. On top of the mountain, we enjoyed a well deserved break and discussed the rest of the day.

You see, climbing Audubon via the Southeast Ridge, being the huge success it was (thanks again, Chris), was not the end of the day. We had planned more! To the west, the rugged summit of Paiute Peak beckoned. Alas, the climb had tuckered out a number of our crew. After a consensus, six of the group descended the Audubon trail, happy to wait for the other four going to Mount Paiute at the car, and perhaps take a nap as well.

The four that went on to Paiute: Ellen, Jim, Denise and yours truly. But for the rest of the story, go here.

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