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Ingalls Peak South Ridge Trip
Trip Report
Ingalls Peak South Ridge Trip 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 47.47400°N / 120.945°W

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 14, 2004
 

Page By: Johnhl94563

Created/Edited: Aug 25, 2004 / Feb 14, 2006

Object ID: 169568

Hits: 1260 

Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes 

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After a successful climb of Mt. Rainier (see Trip Report) my regular climbing partner Gail and I headed into the Washington Cascades for a week of climbing. First destination was Ingalls Peak, North Peak. via the South Ridge. We arrived at a US Forest Campground about 6 miles before the trailhead. A very simple campground, $5 for a vault toilet and nothing else, but a nice location next to a stream.

An early morning start got us up to the trailhead around 7am. There were several people sleeping at the trailhead despite being midweek (Wednesday). Gail and I geared up (water, food, water filter, medium alpine rack, rock shoes, twin ropes, and climbing shoes) and started up the trail. 1 minute on the trail I had second thoughts about wearing trail shoes instead of my light hiking boots. I decided to change into the hiking boots and after a few minutes we were back on the trail.

The trail is a somewhat open trail that quickly climbs the side of the hill up to the pass gaining about 2200 feet in about 3 1/2 miles. From here you had a view of Ingalls Peak and the south ridge. We followed the high trail over to Ingalls Lake. Along the way we passed a camp that seemed to have a bunch of high school/college guys throwing around a football. In their camp was a group of Mountain Goats . The smallest one was very skitterish and it was difficult to get past the little guy without frightening him. We stopped at the stream and topped off our water bottles. We then continued along the trail towards Ingalls Peak.

We noticed a group of 4 about 1/2 mile behind us, so I told Gail to step it up so we didn't get stuck behind a group of 4 on the climb. After reaching the lake we scouted our route up to to the south ridge which would wander up the slabs and snow fields to the saddle . There were several possible routes to reach the saddle and many required crossing short steep snow fields. I was very glad I changed to my hiking boots, and wouldn't have minded having an ice axe. Lucky for me the snow was soft and I was able to kick steps into the snow.

As we reached the saddle we met another group that was coming down. They had spent the night up near Ingalls Lake and had finished the climb. We reached the base of the climb and pepared to rope up. As we started up the first pitch, the group of four arrived and started climbing around the ridge to a higher location to rope up. I was concerned about the other group jumping in front of us and slowing us down, but that wasn't necessary. This was a group of the Mountaineers (Seattle group I believe) and were some of the most courtious climbers that I have met. This was a training climb for new members who were required to wear mountain boots to do the climb.

Gail and I quickly climbed the 3 pitches. The climb is rated 5.6, if you take the center crack, but I felt the climb was much easier. The route ends about 150 feet or so from the summit. Gail and I did our summit pictures and then started rappelling down the route . We had to share rappel/belay stations with the Mountaineers, but once again they were extremely open and friendly about sharing the anchors (bolts). Gail and I left them and started our long hike back out. Along the way we met another party of two who were headed up to do the South Ridge also.

We finally reached the cars after a very full day. Once again it was time to head down the road to our next destination.

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