| A perfect day on a perfect ridge Trip Report |
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| A perfect day on a perfect ridge   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.67000°N / 8.47000°E Date Climbed/Hiked: Oct 15, 2005 | Page By: Erik Van Genechten Created/Edited: Jan 22, 2006 / Object ID: 170057 Hits: 354 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
After our warm-up on Hochschijen the previous day and the perfect weatherconditions (grand beau), Kurt, Wim and myself decided to go for this classic ridge climb.
Comparing the topo of this route with the Hochschijen, we figured that the climb would take us 8 to 9 hours overall. And we set the departure time at 7a.m.
A steep climb from the Bergseehutte took us in an hour to the start of the route.
There was one other team on the ridge, just in front of us. It quickly became clear that the 2 person team was moving faster than us. So we didn't had to worry about interfearing with eachother. We roped up, as usual Wim was our lead climber, I carried the backpack with the supplies and Kurt was our last guy.
Turm 1, with it's very exposed ridge, and Turm 2, with the first 4- passage, are challenging. Turms 3 to 7 are straightforward. Turms 8 and 9 are the most difficult ones, both in height, route finding and grading. While searching the route on Turm 9, we almost climbed the grade 5 variant instead of the 4- normal route. Especially after a very long day of climbing the last part was quite overwhelming.
The descent from the top runs down partially on the nord side of the mountain. Take care that there's a much higher chance of snow on this side, we were happy we brought our ice axes for the descent. Also the climb down the couloir is not to be underestimated. Luckily, we where the only people left on the mountain, since it was impossible to avoid rockslides while going down.
It took us exactly 12 hours roundtrip and we did the last part in the dark due to the early sunset in October. It was a memorable trip.
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