Welcome to SP!  -   
 SEARCH  FOR 
 
 MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking!
Areas & Ranges·Mountains & Rocks·Routes·Images·Articles·Trip Reports·Gear·Other·People·Plans & Partners·What's New·Forum

Dreamweaver
Trip Report
Dreamweaver 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Date Climbed/Hiked: May 11, 2007

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring

 

Page By: lilmantis

Created/Edited: May 16, 2007 / May 16, 2007

Object ID: 293544

Hits: 2386 

Page Score: 90.65% - 32 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Dreamweaver ticked finally!

We drove up on Thursday May 10th and camped out at the Longs Peak Campground. What a great night with a great fire, half pound burgers, all the fixins and an eagerness to get up into high country again. It was a bit chilly though but I have to say, sleeping in the back of a mini van is far better accomodations than what I am used to! I would say we bedded down around 10:30 or so with plans to get up around 3 or 4AM.

So, around 4AM (LOL) we did finally wake up and climb out into the brisk Colorado alpine air and fixed some of the famous McFadden Mud (Rich's Coffee). What a life saver that stuff is! After getting a fruit cup down and an orange followed by coffee we made our way to the trailhead.

I dont care what anyone says, from now on, I take my mp3 player for the ascents! It really makes a difference on ascent speed and keeps me from getting bored and waiting for the partner to catch up so I can chat. Or, on the other hand, keeps me in a groove to where I can keep up with the partner! Im glad I brought it considering my partner brought his as well. And if I am out on a solo trip, the battery is sure to go dead!

I would say from what I can remember that we started up the trail at around 5-5:30 and made it to the Chasm Lake ranger cabin around 8:30-9. Not bad considering the amount of gear we were hauling and the amount of snow on the trail right now.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



Big Horned Sheep in RMNP. This one was giving me a little attitude as I crossed his path and then I noticed he had a couple females with him.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



A look at Dreamweaver on the left of the Flying Buttress of Meeker, the Loft, Ships Prow, and of course, the Diamond of Longs Peak.

As we made our way over to the base of the couloir we really started to doubt whether or not we would have enough time or energy to complete the entire route and get down before the afternoon norm of T-Storms makes its way in.

The climbing up to the base of the couloir was pretty soft and sloppy with a bit of postholing. Not to mention it is very hot on that snow with the sun in blazing mode! What a relief it was to get inside the couloir and in the shade as well as onto some snow that was just a little less soft.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



This is me leading the first crux pitch on the route. 2 cams were more than plenty of pro for this crux.

I would say we moved along pretty quickly through the first pitch. I was about 11:30 or so by the time we reached it. I would say we did'nt start slowing down until we landed near the toop of the Flying Buttress.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



This is a fantastic look down to where the route makes a dog leg. This was taken by Rich while I was leading the first pitch up the upper half to the next crux. I didnt get any pics of the upper crux because we were both too focused on the climb in the now loose snow and steep upper half. Maybe I would solo this one next time?


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



This would be the top of Longs Peak from the ridge of Meeker. A great look at the upper half of the Loft route on Longs.

We moved through the upper half of the route slow and I was dehydrated and had not eaten so much as a gel in hours. The soft snow and deep postholing were really slowing the process. I would say we should have waited another couple of weeks to do this route. It was still a great day though!


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



A look down the steep upper ridge of Mt Meeker. Traversing this area with all the rock bands and snow and ice was a bit nerve racking here considering I was looking down to the edge of this vertical face.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



This would be Rich McFadden. Another great climbing companion!

We made our way to the top of the route around 5:30n or so. I really wished we had camped up near Chasm Lake. I was exhausted and did'nt take care of myself from halfway into the route. I needed the long hard day though. I am glad it happened the way it did. I felt like I acomplished more.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



A look from the ridge of Meeker to her summit. We chose not to traverse the ridge to the summit due to the time (it was around 6:30) and the amount of snow and ice on the ridge. I am glad we avoided it. The descent of the Loft was still ahead and a long walk down after that.

We made it back to the car around 9:30 or a quarter to 10. It was a great day of tough conditions and a long day that exhausted me but kept me interested. It took a little convincing to get Rich to follow me into the couloir because he was almost certain we would have to bail like we did last year halfway up the route. Once I got him in there I knew we were commited and bailing was not going to be an option for us. Thank God for the great weather he blessed us with that day. It did get a little dark and even snowed for a few minutes but there was no thunder or the dreaded Colorado lightning that is usually the norm for the high country.

Overall, I would recommend this trip for aspiring mountaineers and mixed climbers. I would suggest if you're not in real athletic condition that you camp near Chasm Lake. This will give you more time for the route and daylight rather than on the approach. I would think conditions will be better in a couple weeks or so. Harder ice and less snow. Go do this route though and you will not be dissappointed!

Michael





Images



Comments

[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 22 « PREV 1 2 NEXT »

mvsI also...

Voted 10/10

love an mp3 player for long hikes in. And good music can give you real fuel on the way out too. But when I come dancing down the trail I always get stern looks :p.
Posted May 17, 2007 2:55 pm

lilmantisRe: I also...

Hasn't voted

Tellin ya man! That is the ticket in this modern day competition fest. As far as the stern looks go, I didnt get much of them at 9:30 PM on the way down. LOL Im still taking my tunes from now on and solo it may be. I think now that I have my tunes, I WILL do more solo trips! Like being in the gym only it's Gods lil outdoor gym and I am blessed with the tunes!
Posted May 19, 2007 3:47 am

dpkRe: I also...

Voted 10/10

mp3 is the way to go although on grays peak i was confronted by a not so happy mountain goat from behind. The bummer was i could not hear it approaching due to . . . well you know - but thats only once out of many times. No harm no foul :-)
Posted May 22, 2007 8:29 am

lilmantisRe: I also...

Hasn't voted

Yeah thats the same worry I have when I put mine on.
Posted May 22, 2007 7:15 pm

Herr_C4Pathfinding

Voted 9/10

Glad to see you were able to find the right mountain this time! When we go climbing again I think I'll navigate :P I can't wait to get back out there, Kansas is pretty flat this time of the year...
Posted May 21, 2007 4:26 pm

lilmantisRe: Pathfinding

Hasn't voted

Yeah I only hope that Im in town when you get here. The new job requires alot of travelling. Get ready for winter climbs though!!
Posted May 22, 2007 7:17 pm

AndyNice

Voted 10/10

Nice report. Brings back found memories - though it looks like you guys had to deal with a lot more/deeper snow.
Posted May 21, 2007 5:17 pm

lilmantisRe: Nice

Hasn't voted

Yeah it was a good workout on the legs for sure. The hike down was worse after the sun had loosened everything up. Still glad I did the route though. Easy is never fun!
Posted May 22, 2007 7:18 pm

solonomadnice to see

Voted 10/10

Way to go Michael! Good trip report man. I might have to snag me the little secret to McFadden Mud! Good job dude.
Posted May 21, 2007 7:43 pm

lilmantisRe: nice to see

Hasn't voted

Holly??
Posted May 22, 2007 7:19 pm

Aaron DyerJealous

Voted 10/10

Awesome time man! We had planned on being up their but I had to have back surgery. I totally agree on the mp3 player. We used ours on Rainier last year and freakin ran up the thing. Keep it up.
Posted May 21, 2007 9:38 pm

lilmantisRe: Jealous

Hasn't voted

Yeah I think the sound of music is more comforting than the sound of moving glaciers!
Posted May 22, 2007 7:20 pm

bolojmCool

Voted 10/10

Dreamweaver is one of my favorite classic alpine snow routes. Thanks for sharing...I may try it with my buddy on June 3. Great TR!!
Posted May 21, 2007 10:46 pm

lilmantisRe: Cool

Hasn't voted

Thanks alot. I was really surprised to hear that it made the front page. June 3rd should be great conditions. Let me know how it goes!
Posted May 22, 2007 7:22 pm

Tim StichDescent?

Hasn't voted

So did you descend the Loft or some other route?
Posted May 21, 2007 11:20 pm

lilmantisRe: Descent?

Hasn't voted

We descended the Loft. It was really loaded up too.
Posted May 22, 2007 7:14 pm

ZOZOMelt out?

Hasn't voted

Any general time frame when DW melts out? Im heading back east for a while but really wanted to get this one this year? I'll be back the end of June.
Posted May 22, 2007 2:00 pm

lilmantisRe: Melt out?

Hasn't voted

I would say early June would be awesome. If you camp at Chasm Lake (Bivy) then hit it really early you should have some great crunchy snow to climb on. If you out and back you should leave the parking lot around 3 or earlier. Thats my suggestion anyway. You can call CMS in Estes and they will usually have great beta.
Posted May 22, 2007 7:25 pm

Tim StichDescent

Hasn't voted

The time I did the route we got chased off by lightning, thunder, and snow. I assume we descended the Loft as well. It was easy to plunge step and glissade. We did the route car to car in a day and it was quite burly.
Posted May 23, 2007 8:59 pm

lilmantisRe: Descent

Hasn't voted

Yeah I have to say the same. I glissaded most of the Loft after I descended past the small rock band. It was a burly day for me too!
Posted May 25, 2007 7:59 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 22 « PREV 1 2 NEXT »


Sign in to post!

Don't have an account? Register now.



"Good-bye. I am leaving because I am bored."   --George Saunders, last words   
Home · FAQ · Terms of Service · Link To Us · Site Geo-Map · About · Contact

© 2006 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.