| Monte Cervino, my dream Trip Report |
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| Monte Cervino, my dream   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 45.97980°N / 7.66020°E Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 28, 2007 Activities: Mountaineering Season: Summer | Page By: sergio Created/Edited: Aug 11, 2007 / Aug 22, 2007 Object ID: 322352 Hits: 3848 Loading... Page Score: 90.22% - 38 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The early yearsI was born in Torino, Italy a big city not too far from the Alps. Growing up in the northwest part of Italy, mountains have been an important part of my early years. Looking back, I can't tell you how many times I saw pictures of the Cervino at school, in newspapers, magazines and books, and on TV. I remember talking about it at school with my elementary teacher. I stared at those pics for the longest time, but I never suspected our cherished mountain was known to the world as the Matterhorn, and even less could have imagined that it was one of Disneyland's main attractions.
To the Italians, it is an emblem, something that is noble, pure and that represents Italy around the world. I bet the Swiss people feel about the Matterhorn the same way as we do, just as much as the Tibetan people feel about Chomolungma or, as we westerners better know it, Mt. Everest. Yeah, soccer was important too, but for us young kids the Cervino was the ONE. We talked and talked about it for so long that our conversations became almost obsessive. There were other mountains that filled our little minds but inevitably we ended up with the Cervino. We were so proud of it and forever wondered about that cross on the summit.
I recall a TV commercial that was shot from a helicopter circling above the summit. It portrayed a very famous TV celebrity standing on the summit and hugging the cross. We poked fun at him for portraying himself as an avid alpinist who conquered the Cervino. "What a whimp" was our comment, he was merely able to stand on the summit after being dropped off from a helicopter. It was during one of these shots that the weather changed in a matter of minutes. He was stuck on the summit by himself for 4 hours. By his own admission, he cried like a baby. And we laughed even more. At the same time, we knew nothing of what the Cervino really was, a beautiful pyramid of rock and ice that would reward those who try it with some of the best memories of their lives but that could also take lives away in a heartbeat. Well, those were the younger years and the dreams that came with the age. I never thought that one day I would have been the one hugging the cross with teary eyes. The preparationA few years ago, I decided that I had to prepare a list of mountains that I wanted to climb, I knew that if I didn't do it I would have continued to waste precious years jumping around without a plan. I had to concentrate on what I wanted to climb, when and how. Easy to say, difficult to do. A first approach to compiling this list had me living at least until I was 120 years old and climbing at least until I reached 100. I had to shorten the list.
 A typical section of loose rock
With an sudden burst of sanity, I started scratching names off the list until I came up with a 10 year plan that sounded a bit more realistic. Yes, the list was ready, but where and when? I said "Ok, I gotta put these names in order and come up with something attainable and at par with my climbing skills". I rarely think about it, but the prospect of death on a mountain is sometimes recurring on my mind, especially when I am climbing. "Well, if that should ever happen, I must have at least tried two of my most important goals in my life, the Cervino and Ama Dablam". The plan was in motion.
The Monte Rosa group as seen from the summit |
The Cervino was now on my radar and I started making plans for it. Studying a mountain from home is usually my first approach, as I talk to as many people as I can and use the Internet as my information gathering place. I knew this was a difficult and serious mountain, the weather being the number one challenge to anyone who had tried before me, novice or expert alike. I contemplated different options and routes before making any decision. I finally opted for using a guide and climbing the mountain via "La Cresta del Leone" (aka Arete du Lion or Lion's Ridge). I knew this route was more difficult compared to the Hornli Ridge as it was rated from D+ to TD depending on the conditions (although there is no direct correlation between the two systems, the rock sections are probably a 5.8/5.9 on YDS) while the Hornli ridge was rated from to AD to D. I had virtually no experience on the Alps other than a failed attempt at the Aguille du Midi in the 80's and I didn't know what to expect.
My simple thought process went like this: "Why am I worrying when every mountain is climbed in the same way, from the bottom to the top and descended from the top to the bottom?". With that in mind, I started looking for a guide. I consulted several individual guides but then chose the services of the association "Guide del Cervino" based in Cervinia. I flew to Italy on July 16th and started my daily calls to their office to get an update on when they would have been able to guide me. The weather was not good and it consistently snowed above 9000ft. The Cervino made no exception this year. It appeared that this season there would have been no guiding on the mountain because of the excessive snowfall up to mid July. This is when the inner voice reminded that we climbers don't climb the mountains, mountains let us climb them, and only when they want to.
While waiting for a window of opportunity, the reports came in: 3 Bulgarian climbers fell to their death on the North face, 2 separate climbers died on the Swiss side, 4 climbers froze to death on Mont Blanc and one on Plateau Rosa. It sounded more like war reports out of Iraq than from the Alps. The weather was the main reason for all these tragedies and the count was incredibly high even for the Alps which typically see a fair share of fatalities every year. In the last 30 days more than 30 people have died in accidents. This was another moment when I thought I could die on this mountain and that pushed me to a deeper thinking on my part. I patiently waited and stood by for a good 3 day window which seemed never coming. I thought about the climbers who perished and their families, their love and passion for the mountains and they eagerness to climb them. They were all much younger than me and I would love to think that being older this time played in my favor. It induced in me the additional thinking process that sometimes comes with age, I knew I was not going to make the same mistakes they did. A safe retreat would have always allowed me another shot at it, and I was happy with that decision.
 A climber in trouble gets airlifted to safety
When I had almost mentally given up on the possibility of a climb, I got a call from the office to get ready for a possible ascent. Needless to say, the adrenaline rush overwhelmed my last remaining active brain cells and I started to fret about the prospect of hugging the cross. Yes, the mountain had decided that I could give it a try and so I geared up. Herve' Barmasse, an alpine guide from Valtournenche near Cervinia, accepted to guide me on this one. His name did not ring a bell at first, but more about him later.The climbHerve' picked me up in Cervinia with his SUV (a welcome sight as it saved me a long walk up the dirt road!!!). We drove up to the hut Duca degli Abruzzi which is still undergoing major renovation. After a quick gear check, we were off hiking on an easy class 2 trail.
It was clear from the very beginning that Herve's pace was unattainable for me but it didn't discourage me as I know my resources. Herve` was not of the same opinion. He rightfully and honestly questioned my ability to keep up with a pace that would have safely taken us to the summit and back. I tried to get him to show some faith in me and he reluctantly did so. I could tell from the look in his eyes he had none. I reassured him that I would have made the summit if the weather had cooperated with us, although I clearly understood his position and his job. He had to account for my safety, as well as for his own. With that conversation aside, the climb continued on a steep section that became a mix of class 3 and 4, until we reached a section called "Le Placche". 
Le placche |
On the way up, I got a few wake up calls by the crosses and marble head stones. They were all in memory of dead climbers and guides. At the passing of each one of them, my concentration level went up for obvious reasons. We decided to rope up at "Le Placche" but never secured ourselves to any fixed point. The climb was technically easy until we were to get closer to "La Testa del Leone" (the Lion's Head) section. From here the climb shifted in high gear and I had my first encounter with the fixed ropes.
I later found out that these ropes are marine ropes used to anchor ships that the guides install every few years. They resist wear and tear better than anything else. They are called "canaponi" in Italian and the first time you use them they feel rather awkward. The crux of day one is in my opinion just below the hut "Rifugio Carrel". It is a 50 ft. vertical wall that must be climbed using the "canapone" as your only aid.
I probably should have mentioned that the only gear we brought on this climb was the following:
a 25 mt. 9.1 Beal Joker rope
2 Locking carabiners
our individual harnesses
a daisy chain
Yes, you read right. No pros, no cordelettes, no cams, no pitons, no nothing. That was it. Needless to say, Herve` climbed all the walls totally unprotected. A technique that was completely new to me, and it took some time before I was fully comfortable with it (ok, maybe I shouldn't say fully...). At the top of the first rope I was exhausted and my burning forearms were throwing every possible insult at me. There was no alternative, once you grab that "canapone", you can't stop and must go for it. After a few more short section climbs and subsequently short stops, we reached the hut.
This hut is owned by the guides although it is open to everyone. The old hut Amedeo di Savoia was damaged in a storm and instead of repairing it they decided to build a new one. It has 3 separate areas on the inside: an area reserved for the guides and their clients, which contains a fully stocked kitchen with enough water and food for the season as well as upper bunks for the guides, a mess hall for other climbers complete with stoves, pots and gas (the guides require every climber to make a 15 Euro donation per night to help with the costs) and a dormitory that can host up to 40 people. The beds are fully stocked with sheets, 2 blankets, 2 pillows and mattress. Herve` was the chef in charge for the evening and prepared spaghetti with tomato sauce (very tasty!!), accompanied by sausage, parmesan cheese, nutella, wine, tea, coffee and much more. A dinner worth of a restaurant.
Due to my slow pace, I asked Herve` to start climbing earlier than usual, 330am rather than 5am. Although climbing in the dark is a little more demanding, we both concluded that it was our best bet to make the summit. We went to bed very early and as usual I did not sleep a single minute. I guess I was too agitated and the adrenaline kept on rushing to my brain.
Just above the hut, there is 60-70 ft. wall with fixed ropes. The first one is called "corda della sveglia" (Alarm clock rope) because just in case you are not completely awake yet, it will wake you up in a hard way.
We made a quick ascent of the ropes and continued on our ascent through a mix of vertical walls and snow/ice traverses. We encountered a lot of verglass on the rock and we had to pay extra attention to it. Herve` decided to wait for crampons until we would reach a very difficult traverse after Pic Tyndall. We were climbing faster without crampons as long as we paid attention to the verglass and used the preformed steps in the ice/snow. Above this section know as "il lenzuolo" (the bedsheet),  Traversing "il lenzuolo" on the way down.
Pic Tyndall is what newcomers believe to be the summit while they ascend. It stands high and obscure the real summit from view. Shortly thereafter you discover that the summit is another 2-3 hours away and that the most difficult part is yet to arrive. Below Pic Tyndall there is the tallest wall which I estimated to be 90 ft. It is called "La grande corda" (the grand rope) which is in reality a heavy chain. I had to rest a couple of times on this section while Herve` climbed it like Spiderman. One leap after the other, he was on top. I was shining my headlamp on his feet before he disappeared into the darkness. A few seconds later he shouted "What are you waiting for?". I shook my head wishing I was half as good as him. I gave it all and slowly reached the top of the wall. It really kicked my butt, just in case everything else had not already done it. Above the "Grande Corda" we hit the ridgeline and a cold wind blew pretty strong in our faces. It was 5'ish by now and we started seeing some light. I turned my headlamp off and continued upward. At Pic Tyndall we stopped for crampons and quickly confronted the difficult traverse to the last few walls. Calling the traverse exposed is a gross understatement and it deserves all the precautions and concentration you can give it. The photos will help you understand what I am talking about. 
A lot of air below my feet |
A few more short vertical sections took us to the "Scala Jordan", a fully rigged rope and wood ladder that takes you to the last section just below the summit. It might sound like an easy obstacle, but it wasn't easy for me. The upper section of the ladder is attached with a negative angle and you feel like you are falling backward. Not a good feeling at 14800 ft with a few hundred feet of empty space below your feet.  Fixed ropes and Scala Jordan. Enlarge to see the climbers on the face and approaching the ladder
I decided to remain on the Italian side and hold the cross for the usual summit shots. We remained on the summit only for a few minutes because there were a few parties behind us and there is not enough space on the summit for more than 1 or 2 climbers. With teary eyes, I detached myself from the cross, had another 360°look at my beloved Alps and started heading down. I was very tired and I didn't want to make a mistake, I know most accidents happen on the descent and I kept reminding myself about it. Climbing on mixed terrain with crampons is relatively easy on the ascent, but way more difficult on the descent. Needless to say, Herve` was super fast under all conditions. Back at Pic Tyndall, we stopped for the first real break in 2 days of climbing. We drank and ate some local cheese and finally had a conversation that was not about crampons, rope handling or verglass. I discovered that although Herve` has never been in the USA, we have some friends in common. Every year he takes part in expeditions from Patagonia to the Karakoram and the Himalayas, and he comes from a family of international fame in the alpine world. I knew of Marco Barmasse - his father - as he has been one of the strongest climbers in the world for a long time. His dad is still a guide and he summited Annapurna as late as 2005. It was during this expedition that Christian Kuntner, another great alpinist, was killed by an avalanche. Herve` was also the author of the famous article on the Cervino that appeared on the magazine Alpinist in 2006. Herve`'s experience, patience and knowledge made my dream come true. Although I could never keep up with his tremendous skills and strength, he was impressed that I actually made the summit and never gave up. I was able to reinstate in his eyes the missing faith I had seen the day before. He acknowledged my feat with a sincere and genuine smile, followed by a "bravo!". Without uttering a word, I smiled back at him with gratitude.
We started descending and whenever possible, we rappelled down on one strand using a Munter hitch and a carabiner. Now you might be able to understand why we brought no gear with us, we didn't really need it. We met a few parties of 2 and 3 along the way. They were climbing in pitches instead of simul climb like we did. It was obvious that they were not making good time and our usual way of climbing here in the USA did not work as well on the Cervino. On a sad note, another climber passed away a few feet above us, the other two climbers were airlifted by helicopter. The pilot makes a difficult approach. click to see the video
Throughout the night, my thoughts were with him and his family. Back at the hut, we had a quick rest stop, ate some food and then continued on our descent. We got back at the car at 5pm after almost 15 continuous hours of climbing. I looked back at that beauty one more time. It was now engulfed in clouds and the winds were very strong. I was tired but I didn't feel it, I was simply overwhelmed by the joy and happiness of seeing my child's dream fulfilled. I had finally hugged the cross.
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Pennine Alps > Matterhorn - Monte Cervino > Monte Cervino, my dream
