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| Camino Inca   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Peru, South America Lat/Lon: 13.1567°S / 72.546°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 6, 2007 Activities: Hiking Season: Spring, Fall, Winter | Page By: CookieMonster Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2007 / Sep 18, 2007 Object ID: 338058 Hits: 617 Loading... Page Score: 87.41% - 6 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview: The Inca TrailThe Inca Trail: four days, three nights, two passes, twenty-six miles, alpaca, llamas, porters, tourists, locals, peddlers, and the ancient stone city of Machu Picchu waiting at its terminus. At its best this is a high altitude journey crossing the Andes on ancient stone path, once followed by the Incan elite journeying to the stone city. Then, it was forgotten during the years following the Spanish conquest, only to be revived during the 20th century. Now, it is famous, perhaps a little too famous for its own good, among tourists. Feeding its growing mystique, the Inca Trail leads to one of the arbitrarily selected “New Seven Wonders” of the world, Machu Picchu (MP). Of course, we aren’t bandwagon jumpers because we booked the trip three months before the “New Wonders” were christened in July of 2007. This report is designed to both archive my trip and help those who are considering their own Inca Trail trek. Hopefully, the pictures communicate the scenery. More importantly, I hope that the text communicates the entire Inca Trail experience, both good and bad, as well as my own biases.
Guidebooks and websites offer multiple “Inca Trail” treks, but the one described here is the popular 4D/3N version. It begins at km 82 of the road from Cusco/Ollantaytambo, crosses two passes in the Andes, and ends at MP. The Peruvian government tightly regulates access, and allows only 500 entries per day (including the mandatory porters and guides that number approximately 300 per day). The table below gives distances and destinations for each day of our hike. Different groups follow slightly different itineraries, but all will spend 4D/3N on trail.
| Day | Where From? | Where To? | Don’t Miss | Mileage/Gain (ft) |
| 1 | Km 82 | Wayllabamba | Not much | 5.5 / 1610 |
| 2 | Wayllabamba | Paqaymayu | Warmi Wanusca Pass | 6.7 / 3685 |
| 3 | Paqaymayu | Winaywayna | Runkurakay, Sayaqmarka, Intipata, Winaywayna | 10.5 / 1435 |
| 4 | Winaywayna | Machu Picchu | Machu Picchu (duh), Huayna Picchu | 3.8 / Flat |
There are at least two other hikes that are sometimes also referred as Inca trails.
1. 2D/1N: Take the train from Cusco to km 104. Meet your guide and climb approximately 2mi and 1500ft to Winaywayna, where you join the 4D/3N route. Spend the night in Winaywayna, rise early, and hike the remaining 3.8mi to MP. This route avoids the high mountain passes while still allowing for an early morning arrival to MP. However, it is crowded and permits are tightly regulated.
2. 5D/4N: The Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu ascends some very high passes and skirts Salkantay (el. 6264m) one of the highest peaks near Cusco. The trail is much less crowded and, according to our guide, has the most impressive scenery. However, you do not hike directly to MP and must join the non-trekker tourists for the short bus ride.
Days -1 and 0: Trek or Tourist Trap? Our travel agency added two days to our itinerary for acclimatization. I initially balked at the delay but relented because my partners spend their lives at sea-level. Therefore, we filled the two days with a guided tour of Cusco and a trip through the “Sacred Valley of the Incas.”
The Cusco city tour visited two impressive churches and an Inca site called Sacsayhuaman, where you can imitate a statute that is itself an apparent imitation of the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro.
The Sacred Valley is visually impressive, but you will also drive through here on Day 1. Therefore, the primary purpose of the visit is to distribute wealth among the tourist market vendors. The vendors are pros, but were outmatched by my friend (cheapest person that I know) who bought an Alpaca hat for $1.66 (the “standard” bargain price is $3).Day 1: My Kidneys We rose early, boarded a van, and drove to km 82 for the start of our 4D/3N hike. The van contained us (3 people) other hikers (3), our guides (2), our porters (7), and the driver (1). It was not an especially large van, but Toyotas apparently have a larger maximum occupancy rating in Peru. At least we were fuel efficient. Just before passing through the city of Ollantaytambo, the road became rough and the ride kidney-jarring. After a couple of hours in the van we safely arrived at km 82, all dressed up and ready to go.
The first day of hiking is a gentle climb to the first camp at Wayllabamba. The trail passes above an Inca ruin, through some scattered villages, and there is one minor uphill climb. If the weather is clear, be sure to look back at snowcapped Veronica (el. 5682m). I cannot find a rating for this climb, but our guide had ascended the W face and rated it D. He also ran the Inca Trail in 6 hours and change (the record is 3 hours and 50 minutes with a second best time of nearly 5 hours).
We stopped for lunch after a few hours of walking, and that is where the porters entered the picture. In addition to carrying the tents, they also haul in a propane tank and four meals per day. Clearly, this is not a low impact, ultralight, approach. All water is boiled, so expect hot drinks and meals. After a few more hours of hiking, the trail arrives at the campsite in the village of Wayllabamba.
Sanitation is generally poor (but not offensive) at Wayllabamba. Facilities are undersized with both the sheer number of people and the practiced style of camping contributing to the problem. Stock animals also affect the surroundings. Luckily, our tour operator had procured one of the best campsites toward the head of the valley. We enjoyed the view, ate a snack at 5PM (too much), had dinner at 7PM (ugh), and then went to bed.
Day 2: Marked Improvement
We had an early rise at 5:30AM. The evening before, our guide explained the itinerary for Day 2. The main feature is a climb of 3685ft over 5.6mi to the Warmi Wanusca Pass (el. 4215m, or 13825ft), and he expected it to take us 4 hours. Explaining the climb ahead of time is also a way to drum up business for the llamas porters (oops), who are more than happy to haul your pack over the pass for $20. The porters made $40 from our group on Day 2 plus an additional $20 on both Days 3 and 4. We noticed an increase in laughter from their tent after the second day. Happy porters for sure.
We began the climb at 7:15AM armed with instructions to wait at either the top or second camp. That suited me just fine because I’m used to going alone and at my own pace. Our guide expected the top to be mostly cloudy, so going ahead also maximized the window for picture time in case of a break. Quite frankly, I was also glad to leave Wayllabamba for cleaner conditions above.
I reached the top at 9:40AM, stopping only to filter some water and to take a picture. It was convenient that I remembered how to ask the time in Spanish, because I don’t own a functioning watch. As the guide predicted, hikers began arriving en mass at approximately 11AM (B+ group). The first of our party trudged up around 11:30AM (B group), with my companions another 10 minutes behind (B- group). My friend picked up the pace considerably after realizing that he was on video. To his credit, he did not pay the porters $20 (he’s too cheap and would probably turn back before doing so). I was disappointed that our guides continued ahead of the last fellow because he was struggling (D group – packless but he eventually made it).
We descended, now on stone steps that felt like an Inca trail, to the campsite at Paqaymayu. Some other groups continued over the second pass, but I was happy to stay because conditions were much better than at Wayllabamba. After another 5PM snack (semi-deserved this time) and 7PM dinner (ugh), we turned in for the night.
Day 3: Highlands and Inca Sites
We visited the first interesting Incan remains on day 3. First up was Runkurakay, which was a resting point on the way up to the second pass. The stone remains of this place form a semi-circle, and the view of the circle, sun, clouds, deep valley, and peaks rising behind is impressive. Unfortunately, this was the last of the sun that we saw for some time.
The stronghold of Sayaqmarka was the next visited site. Unlike the ruins in the valley below, the Spanish did not touch such isolated places, and their walls remain mostly intact. Sayaqmarka is impressive because it is larger and overlooks a junction of several trails. It began to rain, and we hurried down the last mile to our tents and lunch.
A very important question was nagging me since the beginning of this trip. In fact, it was the most important question, more important than any about the views, trail, or Inca remains.
How long will the food last without refrigeration?
By lunch on day 3 I had the answer based on someone else’s upset stomach. Well, it could always be the water, something eaten before the trip, or something that he ate that I didn’t. I think…I hope…maybe.
After lunch we continued through the drizzle to the end of a ridge. According to our guide there are great views of the Andes on clear days. Too bad that we were stuck in a cloud. We descended more stone steps steeply but safely, eventually reaching a junction. Which way to turn at this fork could be the single most important decision that you are given on the entire trail. Both paths lead to the third camp, Winaywayna, but the right-hand trail is shorter. Upon hearing this you will likely be tempted to turn right. Don’t do it.
The trail left is slightly longer, but it passes through the remains of Intipata. Intipata, with the mountains and the deep river valley falling away below, is one of the most dramatic sites on the trail. Perhaps it is the relative isolation, being left to explore this less crowded site at your own pace, that made this site special. Most people turn right and simply miss Intipata.
The left-hand trail eventually reaches Winaywayna, where the scene is better described as apres ski than camping. There is a lodge-like building complete with loud music, cold beer, and showers. It’s novel at first, but sanitation deteriorates as the day wears on; two toilets just can’t accommodate 500 people. The clouds cleared, revealing a fantastic view from our camp and raising hopes for a clear day at MP.
Day 4: Dolor de Estomago – and that Machu Picchu thing is Pretty Neat
Day 4: Machu Picchu |
The day broke ominously, at midnight, with a stomach rumble. It did not improve in the morning. Judging by the sounds outside the tent, others were also sick. Different parties also had stomach bugs, so I will blame the style of camping before our porters’ cooking. Fish, meat, lettuce, etc. simply does not keep for four days.
After beginning a starvation diet, we started the two hour hike to MP. I cannot say that it was fun under these conditions. However, my dampened mood improved upon reaching the Sun Gate and receiving the feeling that we had made it. For us MP is not just pictures anymore; we were there looking at it, experiencing it.
After visiting the bathroom (bring 50 centimos – wtf?), we began the MP tour. We enjoyed fair weather, our guide’s presentation, and saw a llama fight. One regret is that I did not feel up to climbing Wayna Picchu, the mountain behind MP, given my starvation diet and illness.
AssessmentI prefer long and fast dayhikes/climbs or lightweight, low-impact, camping trips. In addition, I enjoy setting my own pace and prefer more pristine settings. Therefore, read this section with the understanding that I am, by nature, diametrically opposed to many of the practices employed on the trail. This trip was an opportunity to try something different and to travel to MP the proper way.
Personal preference aside, it is a fact that the 4D/3N trail is overused. This is obviously not designed to be a wilderness experience, but you cannot spend 15 seconds on the trail without encountering hiker or porter. Camps are overused, and although sanitation is rarely offensive, it clearly suffers. I have mixed feelings about the porter system. On one hand, it is good for the porters. It’s a job (where jobs are needed), and they enjoy walking the trail (which is theirs, after all). On the other hand, the system is not very practical, especially with regard to food safety and environmental impact.
The trail is heavily regulated, and groups must follow rigid itineraries. Ironically, regulation may contribute to the problems that it is designed to solve. With more flexibility, some parties would do the trail as an overnight or even a day-hike, reducing impact at the camps. Experienced parties might pack their own food. Regulated trails also suffer from the magnet effect, where the trail’s popularity feeds on itself and draws even more visitors. It may be worth checking into other options, such as the less used 5D/4N trail or Choquequirao, the “other MP.”
The 4D/3N Inca Trail with its spectacular scenery, ruins that are impressive in their pre-Columbian context, and, of course, MP, is worth doing once; but only once.
Useful Information4D/3N Inca Trail map.
http://www.inkanatura.com/mapincatrail.asp
Good resource for Peru travel and the Inca Trail(s).
http://andeantravelweb.com/peru/destinations/machupicchu/index.html
Choquequirao, the “other MP.” Quieter, but I don’t think it looks as impressive.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/06/03/travel/03inca.html?emc=eta1
SAS travel is among the many companies in Cusco. You could probably book their 5D/4N trip via Salkantay days in advance, compared to the months required for the 4D/3N trail.
http://www.sastravelperu.com/english/alternativetreks.html#Salkantay
Our tour operator was Peru Planet. There are many operators. We were satisfied with Peru Planet, and they did get us the best campsites.
http://www.peru-planet.net/
Weather: The dry season generally runs from May-September but can arrive early or late by a month. We hiked in early September and encountered clouds/fog and some heavy rain showers, especially when descending through the cloud forest toward MP. Luckily, the skies cleared for our day at MP. Book from June through August for the best chance of clear weather. Hillsides are green during the wet season, but clouds and fog will almost certainly limit the views (especially of MP itself). The Inca Trail is closed for maintenance in February. Images
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