Preparation for the Trail

The greatest question of the morning is what time to get to the airport to get through security. Mondays are typically the worst, so we plan to get there by 7:30 or so for a 10:00 AM flight. Denise drops me off, but the security line is quite modest. I get to the gate somewhere around 8:00—only to find Greg already there. We’re not going to miss this flight! Rick arrives within the half hour and we’re ready to go.

The flights are pretty uneventful. Coming in to Kalispell I’m on the left side of the plane and can see Spring Creek Road leading up to our property as we fly across Flathead Lake. We loop around and land from the north, giving Greg a brief look at Glacier through the gap. Picking up our rental car Rick is offered about ten different variations of optional insurance—we almost expected to get the chance to get bear insurance (for $6.95 a day ….).

We head first to Columbia Falls, hitting the Army-Navy store for supplies. We’re unable to get all the gas we need for our stoves so (after I get about drenched trying to get in the locked Pacifica) we back track to Kalispell and the Sportsman’s SkiHaus. Rick and I are fine with our canisters, but Greg has to buy an entire gallon of white gas. We head back to Columbia Falls, getting groceries and other final supplies on the way. Then we move on toward West Glacier. We miss the Vista Hotel at first, but do find it with its three separate bedrooms. Small, spartan, but serviceable. At the recommendation of the guy at the desk we go to the Rawhide Restaurant for dinner. Buffalo burgers, but extremely slow service.

We’re up early on Tuesday morning for breakfast and to get to the Backcountry Permit Office as early as possible. The Glacier gate isn’t even manned before 7:00 AM, so we (eventually) drive on through to Apgar. Good breakfast at Eddie’s—and good service. We learn from the newspaper that Laura Bush is in Glacier this week. I leave the guys a few minutes early to walk over to the permit office. I hope/plan to be the first in line for those getting their trip itineraries. I beat the next person by about 30 seconds, securing my place! They open at 8:00, and we speak to a female ranger. We explain our time frame and general objectives. She says she can get us a 6-night trip, including many of the prime destinations—beyond my greatest expectations! We’ve got to make final pack decisions and get on the trail today. We view the mandatory video, get the permit, and see that the rangers have a supply of gas and bear spray that others have turned in after their trips. (These supplies can’t be transported on commercial airplanes). We grab a few final supplies, and go back to the Vista to pack and check out.

Flattop Mountain

Tuesday/Wednesday, July 20-21

Finally into the park for real! It’s Greg’s first exposure as we drive along Lake McDonald and then up to the Loop. Supposedly there’s a cut-off trail from the Loop to the Flattop Mountain Trail, but we can’t find it. So, instead of parking at the Loop (where the Hiker’s Shuttle drops off), we drive back to the dirt road to Packers Roost. And we’re off! We quickly run into a mule train, apparently bringing trash back from Granite Park. We then come across a ranger who tries to describe the cut-off trail we couldn’t find. He also tells us that the climb up to Flattop Mountain is one of the toughest hikes in the park—great start! But he praises the new, “sweet smelling” privy at the camp site—something to look forward to! We cross the suspension bridge over Mineral Creek and start the climb up Flattop. In total, we climb around 2,000 feet, testing us with very full—and heavy—packs. Much of Flattop burned in last year’s Trapper fire, leaving charred trees but more of a view than we would have normally had. We eventually make our way to the top and another 15 minutes or so to the campsite. There’s another party already there—who turn out to be seven Russians! Some are living in the States and others are over from St. Petersburg. Our site itself is pretty small, and somewhat dirty from the charred wood. In Glacier (because of the bears) backcountry campers must prepare their food in designated areas away from the tent sites. We also have to hang our food, and a very effective pole is provided at this site. As we’re getting settled a couple of mule deer wander around the site, obviously comfortable with their human “neighbors.”

A brief rain overnight. In the morning we grab some water and find out the Russians are also heading to the Fifty Mountain Campground.

Fifty Mountain

Wednesday/Thursday, July 21-22

We start coming out of the burned area today. This hike was about 6.3 miles, generally rolling until we started coming off Flattop Mountain. We hit an open meadow area with great views to the east. Wildflowers everywhere. As usual, Rick knows many if not most of them. A hiker going the other way tells us about a mama bear and several cubs wandering around the Fifty Mountain area—maybe our first opportunity. Taking a break for lunch, Rick notices a sparrow nest on the ground. One bird has just hatched and two other eggs are in the nest. Mama is not amused that we are so close. We head down off Flattop and cross the Continental Divide. This seems a pretty undramatic place for the Divide. We’re starting to get anxious (and tired) to reach the campsite. Finally, after a brief climb we see the privy, signaling our arrival.

After setting up camp, Rick and Greg take naps—at least 30 minutes. We then take a day hike around the open area to our east. Great views all around (where the “Fifty Mountain” comes from, especially from the knoll we climb. A mountain goat is high up on the wall where the Highline Trail starts, and marmots are running through the meadow. Greg and I are hiking in our sandals, which isn’t too bad except where it gets rocky or marshy. The Russians show up and they head up the Highline Trail for a day hike.

At dinner we meet a couple of solo hikers who tell of the Sue Lake Overlook. So after dinner I decide to head up there, advised that it’s about a 1.7 mile round trip. It’s pretty hot (afternoon/evening sun exposure). Rick sees me from below (he’s been wandering around taking pictures), but tells me to go on. When I get up to the ridge I realize the overlook trail backtracks up the mountain overlooking our camp area. I’ve brought one pole and am glad I did; the trail is very narrow with a long way down! I reach the top and step over to the Sue Lake side. Beautiful glacial lake, with a significant frozen area. Heading back down, I run into Rick who’s decided to follow me after all. We go up together and take a few more pix.

Fifty Mountain is a great site with the views and opportunities for day hikes. But no bears …..

Kootenai Lakes

Thursday/Friday, July 22-23

This will be our longest hike so far: about 8.3 miles, most of it downhill. We start with about a mile hike to the north along the meadow surrounding the campsite. We pass a stone hut that was a never-completed shelter. And then head down through a beautiful sub-alpine forest. Some of the trail is pretty overgrown, with a lot of foliage and flowers. We finally reach the Waterton River at a Patrol Hut where Stoney Indian Creek comes in. Another 2.4 miles to the cut-off to our campground.

We run into day hikers who’ve apparently taken the boat from Watertown, and then hiked down from Goat Haunt. They’re engaged in viewing a couple of moose in the water across from the campground. We’d been told that we might see some here, and didn’t have to wait a bit! We also see a beaver come out of the water on to the small island across from us.

We take the opportunity to wash off in the lake. Absolutely feels good after several days on the trail. The downside of this location is the insect population: mosquitoes and flies. Rick had brought an extra mosquito net, and I gladly use it here and going forward. Rick takes a shot at some fishing, but with limited success.

At dinner we meet several folks from Missoula, who’ve brought a regular coffee pot, and regular frying pan, and the kitchen sink. The food hanging pole is directly over the food prep area here, and after dinner we need to wait for our camp associates to clear out before getting the food up.

In the morning there are four moose in the water: one bull and three females. There are also two adult trumpeter (or possibly, tundra) swans and their little ones.

Stoney Indian Lake

Friday/Saturday, July 23-24

We backtrack the 2.7 miles to the intersection with the Stoney Indian Trail. Then pretty straight up for 2.6 miles, an elevation gain of some 2,000 feet. Most of this hike is through very thick undergrowth, often up to our waists. “Hey bear” was called out often, especially when we couldn’t see well ahead. We made slow but steady progress and, because the hike was relatively short, got to Stoney Indian Lake around 1:30 PM. This camp site rated a “5” (tops) but one of the guidebooks. Very nice, but we kind of liked Fifty Mountain even better. Stoney Indian is more spread out than the others we’ve been in, with climb up to the campsites. It also has an open pit toilet, with a great view of the mountains!

The mosquitoes and flies are here as well; elevation doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. We wash off again, and Rick takes a plunge. Then, with so much time available, we lounge around in the sun. Some other hikers arrive, telling us they’ve hiked 18 miles from the Chief Mountain trailhead. OK! They also tell us that the Ptarmigan Tunnel is closed because of bears. We’ve got several days before we’re scheduled to go through the tunnel, so it seems somewhat academic. But we do start to think about alternate routes.

The younger 18-mile hikers have enough energy to dive in the water. Amusing to watch. Also amusing to hear them talk about going cross-country to avoid the trail down to Kootenai. We do question their wisdom if not their endurance. No sign of Laura Bush yet (or bears) although we do get reports she’s been at the Belly River Ranger Station and that she and her girl friends have been supplied a bottle of wine each every day. Must be nice to have all your gear hauled around for you!

In the morning we’ll face a steady climb of about a mile up to Stoney Indian Pass after walking around the lake.

Glenns Lake

Saturday/Sunday, July 24-25

Another longer hike today, about 8.3 miles. The hike up to the pass wasn’t too bad; we take our time and stop by some snow. We’re also looking for a mountain goat alleged to be near the trail, but can’t find him/her. Up at the pass the views are tremendous in both directions. This is perhaps the greatest vista we get the entire trip. We can see the string of lakes below: Mokowanis, Glenns, Cosley, etc. We take a break above several waterfalls in a beautiful area, and then start the long hike down to the lakes. It’s hard to imagine hiking this trail in the other direction. We felt great for the first five miles or so, but start to realize that 6 or so miles seems to be about our comfort level; more than that and we start to get tired. We reach the head of Glenns Lake, with maybe another 2.5 miles to our campsite at the foot of the lake. OK, we’re ready to get there.

We do make it, to some so-so campsites (and a smelly privy). A couple of sites are real close to the water, but not ours. But it’s a short walk (through the brush) to the lake and the “beach.” Another chance to wash off and, this time, wade well into the water. Rick takes a shot at fishing again, with good results this time: two rainbow trout. Greg and I get a fillet each with our dinner! This area was reported to have several bears in the area but, again, we are bearless.

In the morning the Duck Family Robinson is swimming in the lake near the shore. Ground squirrels and an inquisitive chipmunk entertain us at breakfast. We face a short and relatively level hike of less than six miles to Elizabeth Lake. Somewhat of a rest day before we face the climb to the Ptarmigan Tunnel on our day out.

Elizabeth Lake

Sunday/Monday, July 25-26

We reach the Cosley Lake campground in about 2 miles and I check it out. Reputed to have great sites on the water—they do look pretty good. We have to cross a deep stream in our sandals—most crossings have bridges of some sort, but not here. Getting near Elizabeth we reach the side trail to Dawn’s Mist Falls. We take a break here but, with not much more than a mile to Elizabeth Lake, we decide to head on to get a good camp site and perhaps come back to the falls on a day hike. And in about ¼ mile we get to the top of the falls anyway.

Arriving at the campground, we find that the tunnel is still closed. If the closure sign is still there in the morning we may need to head out the Belly River Trail instead of through the Ptarmigan Wall to Many Glacier. We get a great campsite with a view of the lake and a very short walk to “our” beach. I take a swim and wade in the water for a while. Then Greg and I lounge in our chairs while Rick searches for the best fishing spot. I hike around the lake shore in my sandals to find him and then maybe go a third of the way up the lake, coming back to rejoin Greg in the beach-lounging position. We listen to some loons calling across the lake.

And that’s when I first saw the bear. He was a Kodiak-looking fellow, about 19 feet tall. Well, actually he was a black bear, maybe 6-8 feet tall. In perfect bear position: across the creek emptying out of the lake. Close enough to see well, but “safely” (or so we believe) across the creek. He/she rumbles around for a while and then disappears on us. Rick misses the scene, for he’s out there catching our dinner: four rainbows.

At dinner we run into a solo hiker we had met at Glenns Lake. He reports going to the Belly River Ranger Station and learning from Ranger Heidi that the tunnel is open! But the sign hasn’t been changed and we are wary of second-hand information. What if we hike the three miles to where the trail has been closed and then need to turn around? The hike out Belly River is already 9.5 miles. We decide to decide in the morning.

The Way Out

Monday/Tuesday, July 26-27

I’m up a little after 5:00 AM. Whatever direction we head we’ll need an early start. I check out the trail closure sign: still there. We decide not to risk the Ptarmigan route, even though it’s high on our list and should have great views. We figure if we run into a ranger coming up to remove the sign, we’ll decide if we’ve gone too far to turn around.

We hit the trail just before 8:00 AM, about two hours earlier than usual. We reach the suspension bridge across the Belly River and figure that’s about the point of no return; if we backtrack to Ptarmigan our total hike would approximate 15+ miles and we’d be pushed as well to make the 5:00 PM shuttle back to our car. Then just before reaching the Ranger Station we run into Heidi and another ranger—yes, on their way to Elizabeth Lake to remove the sign! The tunnel was in fact opened up yesterday. They had intended to come up and remove the sign last night but had a bear in the nearby campground and a couple of people falling off horses. Thanks much ….. We agree that we’re far past turning around and continue toward the Chief Mountain trailhead.

The ranger station is kind of nice: in an attractive meadow, with a view up the Mokowanis River valley from whence we came. We see the white tents the Laura Bush party allegedly stayed in while they were here. No rangers present so we take a break. My feet are starting to kill me, especially on downhills. Maybe it was a blessing not to go through the tunnel; it’s about all downhill from there to Many Glacier.

This is our longest hike of all: 9.5 miles. Most of it is pretty level except for the final two mile climb up to the trailhead. We hit the uphill and find it’s mostly in the direct sun. We slog our way up, with the now typical five minutes of hiking and then a rest. The sound of cars is surprisingly welcome as we make our way to the top. This trail comes out right at the Canadian border, immediately south of the customs stations.

We’ve got two hours to kill before the shuttle from Waterton is scheduled to arrive. I take a shot at getting someone to give us a lift, but no luck. We look pretty bad and have a lot of gear to bring along as well. The shuttle is there on time—driven by a woman who lives in Big Canoe! She provides some good park info as she takes us to the transfer point at Many Glacier. Off Many Glacier Road many people are gazing up the meadow: a grizzly is bear #2—and one for Rick. We get to the Many Glacier Hotel, get to wash up and give Greg a brief exposure to the wonderful MG area. Then on to the Hiker’s Shuttle and the long ride back to Packers Roost and the car. Greg gets to see all of Going-to-the-Sun Road. The driver is willing to take us to the Packers Roost access road instead of the scheduled stop at the Loop. Thankfully; we didn’t need the 2.5 mile hike down the access trail, even if we could find it!

The car is there and fully functional. We head out, dropping off our gas and bear spray (unused!) at the Backcountry Office as a contribution to others. Into Kalispell we search for a motel, ending up at the modest Diamond Lil Inn. But the shower works, with plenty of hot water! A quick clean up and then a late dinner at Moose’s.

In the morning we visit our land to meet the landscape architect, Bruce Boody, to review his recommendations for our road. The guys encourage Denise and me to build ASAP! We then hit the Somers Bay Café for a great breakfast. Rick has eaten there before as well, and it’s a great way to head out with a pleasantly full stomach.

Glacier International is a bit more “crowded” than usual, but still no Atlanta. The flight home is uneventful and on time. Arriving at the trains we decide not to walk from Concourse B—far be it for us to be able to walk half a mile on flat ground on a moving sidewalk! We also realize there are probably more people on this one train than we saw in an entire week in the backcountry. Welcome home ……

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