| 20080113 Dodging Rocks on Boulderdash, Mt Baden Powell Trip Report |
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| 20080113 Dodging Rocks on Boulderdash, Mt Baden Powell   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 34.36122°N / 117.74863°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Jan 13, 2008 Activities: Mountaineering Season: Winter | Page By: TacoDelRio Created/Edited: Jan 18, 2008 / Jan 18, 2008 Object ID: 373777 Hits: 478 Loading... Page Score: 87.4% - 5 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ConceptBoulderdash Route Page
Over the Spring-Fall of 2007, I hiked and poured over maps, and Google Earth, looking for possible Alpine routes here in my home range, the San Gabriel Mountains, that could be climbed after a decent coat of snow.
I figured my list would be of interest to some folks, and also gain some negative attention since "you can't do that here", as gravity and physics are different around here, apparently. Can't do anything without some level of negative attention, it seems. Anyway, I saw lotsa neat lines in the mountains to try, and have had some success so far.
One area of interest was Mt Baden Powell, which I had not yet climbed or hiked from any direction, as the drive was long for someone with a tight budget such as myself. It would be a short drive up Route 39, but that road has effectively been closed since 1968, limiting access to just above my place in Azusa.PlanningSome north-facing couloirs and gullies on BP (Baden Powell) caught my attention on Google Earth, and so on the 13th, my buddy Fritz and I set off to check them out and give one a shot.
 Proposed North-Baldy route
There are a multitude of couloirs and gullies heading up from Angeles Crest Highway to the ridge connecting BP and Hawkins, offering some opportunities for climbing, and for local BC skiiers. The one we were most interested in was the primary couloir heading from SR2 about a mile west of Vincent Gap, direct (or close to) the summit of BP.ExecutionFritz and I set out without packs or anything for a quick walk up to the base of that gully and back, to check it out and see if it was good to go or not. The gully looks nice, with lots of options for exit, fewer trees, and some easy mixed sections. I assume it narrows to a couloir closer to the top, with better conditions there, but we could not see that far.
We walked back to the truck, and got our stuff ready. I asked Fritz if he would mind if we took a different route, near Lamel Spring on the Northeast side of the peak. We agreed to "professionally wing-it", and our response to several folks who asked us of our route was "Whatever looks good", and such along those lines.
What was to become our route, on the right-center |
After we got our stuff together, we headed down to what turned out to be the trail/road to Bighorn Mine, and took that until we saw this...
This looks good! |
We stopped at the base of this system of couloirs to put our harnesses, crampons, etc on, and get ready for the slog up to better terrain. We brought gear that would allow us to rappel or bypass terrain if we found ourselves in a bad way. Luckily, this was not needed.Moving upAfter saddling up, we started up, heading for the right of the two main couloirs feeding the area. We turned left after seeing the mixed climbing required to ascend this section, and headed into the left couloir as best as possible. The left couloir is the one to focus on for all future climbs, if there are any future climbs.
Fritz starting up the route |
Climbing up this couloir was typical at first, with mild postholing, and some good hard snow. Further up, we hit alpine ice, which in places barely allowed crampon points in. It was a dream! Most of the ice was good and allowed tools to get in real easy, so most climbing was done with axe in piolet canne position, and lots of French technique for crampons as well. Harder spots were easily climbed using piolet traction, pied troisieme, and flexible ankles.
Myself moving up |
We took a break, and Fritz tightened his crampons.
Fritz taking a break, ready to move out once I reach him |
Switching out. Always careful not to snag runners/cordelettes on crampon points. |
We moved up the fantastic quality hard snow and positive ice feeling at the top of the game.Kote"Kote" (Koh-tay) are sleeves, sometimes with a metal plate or system of plating, worn by Samurai to protect their forearms. They would have been helpful here. ;-)
We were about 3/4 of the way up the couloir when rock and icefall began in earnest. Some round ice/snow chunks, typically the size of a basketball, would come flying down the couloir. The sun had apparently risen high enough to shed some light and warmth on the top of the route, loosening debris.
Some rocks came down as well. I heard the familiar sound of rocks whizzing past my head, and felt nervous and sick as I saw them fly past Fritz, nearly hitting him. I felt sorry for this mistake I had made, for bringing a friend into a dangerous situation. It is all part of the mountain experience, but it is difficult to make money and work when you have a shattered leg or other severe injury. I later apologised to Fritz for taking him on this climb.
We progressed slowly upward. I called "ROCK" as I saw one falling towards us. I looked toward the ground so the helmet would take the hit, if it was to hit me, and waited. Fortunately, it missed my head, but slammed into my right lower arm and wrist. My stance was solid, so I was safe, but I cursed out loud because that sombitch hurt like hell! Fritz told me it was a bigass black jagged rock.
Yay, pain! |
I solidified my stance, hit my axe in as hard as I could manage, and checked my arm for broken bones or anything major. Nothing felt broken, just some slowly oozing blood coming from a swollen arm. Five days later, my whole lower arm is yellow from bruising, and my thumb-index finger webbing is swollen, with minor pain. This stuff ALWAYS happens to my right hand/arm! I had just recovered (very slowly, I might add) from my right hand being broken where my pinky meets my wrist, which felt great (nauseating) while climbing up Baldy Bowl in snow in September. Good times.
Whammo |
After this and some laughing and cursing, We made haste to safely get the hell out of the couloir and onto the small ridge to our left, which led to the primary Northeast Ridge, towards the summit.
Fritz climbing past where I was hit |
Wrapping it upThe "mini ridge" heading up was a PITA (Pain In The Ass), with snow on scree, and lots of using trees and sturdy bushes for holds where things got funky.
The mini-ridge leads to this ridge |
The ridge lead to a nice, prominent plateau, or flat, and we planned on hanging out there to get some food and hydration before unassing the AO (Infantry-speak for leaving) and heading back to the truck, and perhaps some hot chow in Wrightwood, or good old Burger Basket in Phelan off Sheep Creek Road.
Fritz was mega-burned out, from the exposure and the tough climb, so I cooked up some good old SPAM, and we marvelled at whatever the hell it's made of. It cooked quickly, and we drank some water and started our ritual of mountain beer tasting. We traditionally bring Sake (Japanese Rice Wine) and beer to dirnk either when the hard stuff is behind us, or when we're stationary for a good while. I brought my favorite, Asahi Kuronama 'Black Ale', and Fritz brought one of my new favorites, Franziskaner Hefeweisse, which is incredibly amazingly good.
Obviously we know our limits and we enjoy said beverages responsibly.
Fritz downed some ramen, we finished our beers, and cleaned up to head home. We headed North, hoping to grab the trail and take that down, but that was not to be. We handrailed (paralleled) what turned out to be the Lamel Spring gully, and observed it while we moved to see if it was safe. We descended into this gully, and took it all the way down to the parking area, after moving through some trees. This is a fantastic and easy way to get off the mountian in winter, and probably the same in dry seasons as well.
Back at the truck, we removed our gear, and booked it home just in time to hit the Wrightwood traffic jam! It took us a looong time to get to the 138. Oh well.
A great time with a great climbing buddy! Quick Route InfoBoulderdash, 640M Class 4 AI2
The route |
BP 9499'
ROUTE START 6500
ROUTE END 8600
2100ft
640 METERS
Approximately 3.5 miles covered, total, including exfil.
-Class 4 sections, at hardest
-AI2, Alpine ice (avy pack and debris, hardened snow from freeze-thaw, etc) up to maybe 55 degrees, mostly 45 degrees or so throughout route. One axe required, crampons with stiff binding (technical) STRONGLY preferred, and suggested overall. Images
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Baden-Powell > 20080113 Dodging Rocks on Boulderdash, Mt Baden Powell
