I have been wanting to climb Mount Sneffels since I first saw a picture of it several years ago. In my mind (and many other's), it is one of Colorado's monarchs. One of it's most beautiful peaks. This no doubt is reinforced by how many photographers choose to shoot it professionally.

So, while we had been to the San Juans many times, I had never climbed it. Therefore, my wife and I planned a 10 day San Juans trip, the center of which for me was soloing this peak. We had already climbed Redcloud and Sunshine two days earlier, and had taken a rest day in Ouray the day before. So, when my alarm went off at 4:45, I was ready to go. No...that's not true. I had drank one too many beers the day before, so was a bit groggy. So I got out of bed at 5:09 am and was out the door at 5:30. Not bad...

Driving up Camp Bird road was fun, as there were lots of deer on the road, and NO other cars, which is rare for that road in the summer. I made it to the TH at 10,700 in about 35 minutes, but continued on, as the road seemed in condition. I came to a spot just shy of the 4x4 TH that I though was covered by avy run off, so I turned around and drove back to 10,700 feet where I parked. Bad move in retrospect, as I could have made the upper TH with no problem, so I added 2 miles and approx. 500 extra vertical feet to my day...oh well. I left my car at 6:40 am.

I felt like a diesel engine that morning, slow to start, but once I got going there was no stopping me. I hiked up the road at a good pace, and before I knew it, was at the Wright's Lake spur. I turned right and continued up the road, crossing snowfields here and there. It was a warm, sunny day, and I felt good. I kept thinking I saw the route up Sneffels' south slopes, but am glad I listened to Roach's advice and didn't leave the trail too early, for I was way off in my reckoning. the route is way up in Yankee Boy basin near Blue Lakes Pass. So I kept going and finally reached a sign board at 12,300 feet pointing the way to Sneffels.

I crossed a few solid snowfields and finally the route came abruptly into view. This was the route up Sneffels, no doubt. Until now, I had been alone, save a man I had talked to at the TH. I saw him with another man fast approaching me, but for the past 2 hours I had been all alone. That was about to change, and so was the climb.

The Climb Begins

The two others caught me at the bottom of the amphitheatre, and one of them sailed past me. The other, whom I met at the TH, stayed with me and started conversation immediately. While I don't mind companionship on a route, I was focused on this climb, and wanting to soak up as much as possible. I humored him, however, as he was a 14er novice from AZ, and he tagged behind me almost all the way to the summit.

I climbed quickly up to the south col, using both snow and rock as I went. The gentleman with me coninued chatting, and I didn't mind the company. The third gentleman was in front of us, but as we neared the col, he kept turning and shouting to me "where is the couloir route to the summit". I knew, and yelled back, but he couldn't seem to find it. His confusion was multiplied when we spied a women downclimbing a precipitous cliff band climber's left of the couloir, as she had obviously gotten off route. Once on the saddle he located it, and climbed out of our view.

Just below the col, I stopped to put on crampons, as there was a small cornice at the saddle, and the snow was now unavoidable. My climbing companion was stunned to see me pull out my crampons and axe, as he only had 'yaktraks', inadequate non-slip springs for ice in parking lots and sidewalks, not climbing couloirs... I told him I didn't recommend climbing with those, as coming down would be dangerous at best, and harmful at worst. He said he would follow my steps and be ok, and so I continued into the couloir at 13,500 feet, a bit worried about him.

The climbing in the couloir wasn't too steep, but I was cautious being a novice couloir climber. The snow was solid, and I climbed quickly as I wanted to be out of it. I met two guys coming down who ascended via the Snake Couloir, and we chatted about the fellow without crampons or a tool. They also advised him of his inadequate gear, but he persisted.

I reached the exit crack, and the gentleman who had passed me earlier was already coming off the summit, waiting to downclimb the crack. He waited for me as I climbed, keeping my crampons on (as I would all the way to the summit and back). It was three or four moves upward, and you were out onto the edge of another steeper couloir. I exchanged few words with the man, who was nice, but he spoke French, so our conversation was brief. Our smiles and joy were easily translated between us both, however, as the joy of climbing is universal.

I didn't find the exit crack to be too hard at all. Of course you didn't want to slip backwards, because if you did, you would most likely land in the couloir and slide down that, which wouldn't be fun. There were two tough moves out of the couloir, and I remember thinking how it would be a bit harder to downclimb. No matter, that was later, this was now... The views once in the other couloir (which I thought might be one of the Birthday Chutes?) were unbelievable. You could look right down onto Blue Lakes Pass, and at all the other peaks in the Sneffels Range, including Gilpin, Emma, Dallas, as well as Telluride Ski Resort and environs. I couldn't believe how beautiful this area was, and how there were so few people there!

Sneffels Summit - Alone!

I scrambled up class 2 rock to the summit, with my crampons on. In retrospect I should have removed them, but I just wanted to reach the summit, and didn't want to monkey with taking them off, and then putting them back on for the climb down. There are a few cairns on the route, but there are several ways to scramble up. I reached the summit alone, and it was as great as I hoped it would be. This, my 29th fourteener, was by far my most rewarding and favorite hike already. I was soon reminded, however, I still had to climb down the snow route.

A few minutes later, the other gentleman joined me and we had a nice chat at the summit. It was 10:30 am, and the skies were blue. He snapped a couple photos of me at the summit, and I did the same of the scenery around us. After only 20 minutes, I left the summit, as I didn't want the snow to soften too much in the couloir. The other gentleman followed me, and we reached the entrance crack together. He downclimbed first, and then me with my crampons on.

I knew I would be much faster going down than he, as he would have to actually downclimb the entire couloir with no equipment. We said goodbye and I started climbing down facing foward quite quickly. As mentioned earlier, the suncups and runnels actually made for fine 'steps' as I came down, and made it nice.

I switchbacked down the slope, making three or four downward side step moves in one direction, before turning back the other way and repeating the process. I looked down the couloir to the saddle often, and couldn't wait until I got there. I noticed that the two guys I had seen on the way up and glissaded the route a bit, as I saw butt marks and an ice axe 'brake'. It didn't look like they made too much progress with that method, however, due to the bumpy snow surface.

The snow was solid, and I made good time, reaching the saddle in 30 minutes. The snow was quite wallowy near the rocks above the col, but not too bad. I looked up and the gentleman was still in the top fifth of the couloir, so I knew it would take him a long time to descend. I hoped he would make it safely, and then continued down to the saddle to snap some more pictures. I was feeling like I had achieved a great climb, and the rest would be gravy!

I continued down with my crampons on, as the area below the col was a bit steep and still had ample snow. Once I reached a place where I knew I could choose my route, I stopped for a few minutes to remove my crampons, and munch on a bit of food. Once done, I really cruised down, using the loose dirt and scree, as well as snow to come down fast, slipping periodically. Once mostly out of the amphitheatre, I saw tracks sliding down the snow into the basin, and thought this was a good idea. Before I knew it, I was half running down the slopes, sliding across the soft but supportable snow. I cruised around the corner and headed east, continuuing to use snow as long as I could. I reached the signs at 12,300, and stopped for a minute.

Returning to Civilization

As I hiked further east in Yankee Boy, I started to see hikers, etc. I noticed a couple on the snowfield to my left, possibly heading to Sneffels. I wondered of the wisdom of that, as large clouds were forming in the sky, and it was noon, so thunderstorms appeared imminent.

I enjoyed admiring the many stunning peaks in the area as I hiked, including Potosi, Teakettle, Gilpin, etc. Most of these are imposing class 4 and 5 climbs, and I couldn't help think if I would ever make it up any of those. For now, however, I was extremely happy with my ascent of Sneffels, a peak I had long adored, and whose slopes and ridges would now take on a whole new meaning in my mind.

I used the snowfields to shortcut the road, and slid down those in record time. Soon, I was back on the road above the rushing creek, and I started to see more and more people. Soon I passed people on ATV's exploring the basin, and then people in Jeeps, out for a Sunday stroll from Ouray. I reached my car at 1:00 pm, 6 hours and 20 minutes after leaving it. I was excited to get to Ouray to see my wife and tell her of my adventure, so I left my boots and gaitors on, and started down the road.

I saw surprisingly few cars, and went a bit faster than I should have down the stunning road. No matter, I made it back to Ouray in 30 minutes and pulled into the hotel's courtyard to be greated by my wife, all smiles. She was happy I was back, as she hadn't heard from me since my summit phone call (yes, I called from the summit). We headed out in search of food, LOTS of food, before making the drive over to Telluride. As we always do, we stopped at Dallas Divide to admire the lofty Sneffels Range, but this time the view held something different for me...

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