| A date with an Angel Trip Report |
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| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Oregon, United States, North America Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 28, 2008 Activities: Trad Climbing Season: Summer | Page By: twoshuzz Created/Edited: Aug 17, 2008 / Nov 2, 2008 Object ID: 432314 Hits: 263 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Lee's Peak and Lookout Mt. from Hoffer lakes
My plans were simple.Find quality granite in Oregon.I set out for the Elkhorns and Anthony Lake to climb both Lookout Mt. and Lee's peak(s)and possibly Gunsight as well.Upon arrival, I could see Gunsight's N. couloir was choked with several feet of snow. Strike one.I hiked into the the "upper basin" for a look at Lookout Mt. and found its N.couloir in the same condition. Strike two. I settled for Lee's as the west facing ramp held far less snow and looked ripe.
Back in camp at Hoffer, I packed a standard rack with some large gear, grabbed a rope and hit the trail the next morning at 6:30 am. While taking many pics on the way up I finally hit the base of the slab at about 8:30. As I snapped a few more shots, the sun came over the ridge and hit me right in the face. Water began to run from the snow above and within a few minutes, a couple of rocks whizzed by within 5 ft of my bucket.The Falcon guide claims this ramp to be protected from the sun?. NOT !!!. The sun was right over the ramp the whole morning and right on top of it at that.
Roped up and ready to go, I built a solid anchor with two #11 hexes and a 6.0 friend.The first pitch is only 5.3 but since I was solo,I figured better safe than sorry. Moving up the crack system I found solid footing while frictioning with very little smearing needed. The crack(s)jammed nicely and while areas of the slab were running wet, I was able to move away left and still find plenty for hand holds.Arriving at the second stance, I began to question whether rope and anchor were really worth the while. The rock was sticky with plenty of cracks and juggs and the most difficult section only 5.6 and right above me. Piss on it. Off with the pack and lower it down. Up and left I went jamming with good fist jams, fingers and hands as the multiple shallow cracks made for easy climbing. Topping out
The third pitch took me way left through some veg in a small trench as I moved around the snow slab that was watering and sending rocks down next to the right wall. AS I moved above the snow, the slab steepened and went somewhat blank on pitch 4.How about some gear and rope now dumbass.Down climb ?. Screw that, it's only 5.6!!!.Smearing, palming and finding enough contour in the low angled slab,I moved up and beyond the 30 ft smoothie to a bulge and undercling above. Moving right towards the wall and around the bulge I was able to hit another crack system moving R to L and above it, back from L to R and to the summit chimney.Thirty +/- ft. of 5.1 scramble/ lieback and chimneying brought me to the summit about 1 and 1/2 hours and 450 ft from the start.Now if I only had may pack with something to eat and drink along with my camera!!!.The faint site of a goat/climbers trail brought me to the saddle between Lee's and Angel within 1/2 hour.Some third and fourth class scrambling brought me back to the base and my pack.I moved back up to the col and up higher while following the south ridge of Angel, snapped some pics off the backside and headed back to camp. All in all, a very fun climb on good hard and stable granite. Upper sections are somewhat runout and the lower can be somewhat of a challenge to protect. Cracks tend to be wide but shallow. The couloir looks outstanding for a winter climb as does the ramp leading up Lookout.Good access from the ski area to the west. Think I'll be back next winter. Over the ridge and looking south  The upper basin from the col  Over the ridge looking east  Over the ridge looking west  Protected from the sun my *%@ !!!  Note the goat in the center just below the snow at the base Images
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