| Staying in the Game Trip Report |
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| Staying in the Game   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Colorado, United States, North America Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 30, 2008 Activities: Hiking, Scrambling Season: Summer, Fall | Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Sep 1, 2008 / Sep 19, 2008 Object ID: 437932 Hits: 1994 Loading... Page Score: 91.27% - 42 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Preparing to Climb a Monarch
Aaron Johnson & Pyramid Peak |
NOTE: This report is part two of a series of reports. If you haven't yet visited Part One, you may want to start HERE.
Last week’s long and grueling climb of South Maroon Peak was behind us. It took a while, but my feet and knees had recovered. By the time the weekend was once again upon us, I felt ready to tackle our next 14er objective, Pyramid Peak. Pyramid was the 53rd 14er in Ellen’s quest to climb all 54 14ers in Colorado. It would also prove to be one of the more challenging peaks we would ever do, and we would have to call all of our collective experience to bear on the mountain, as well as our undivided attention. The mountain would demand nothing less.
The climb was half of the distance…or so we thought, of South Maroon, which was encouraging. Perhaps my feet and knees would do better on this climb, but I also felt the gain, which was the same as South Maroon, in actually less than half the distance, could be a much bigger factor. This was an incredibly steep mountain, probably the steepest I have been on save for a little mountain down in the San Juans called Potosi Peak. There was only one way to find out if my recent mechanical problems would be a factor on this peak, and that was to climb it.
Most of our fellow hikers were not interested in climbing Pyramid with us, for a variety of reasons. Suffice to say it’s just not what they were interested in. Pyramid did not offer what they were looking for in an experience in the mountains. One fellow hiker was indeed interested, our good friend Randy Breunlin, who leads many of our Usual Suspect hikes, had voiced an interest in going. Alas, circumstances prevented that from happening, so it appeared Ellen and I would be climbing the mountain on our own.
Our SP friend Barry had hoped to climb Tabeguache with us. This was to be Ellen’s last 14er, and it would be great to have him there to celebrate with us. Our scheduling though placed the climb well into September, by which time Barry would have started his new job and would be unable to join us for the climb, but he knew we were planning on climbing Pyramid, and it worked out that he could join us for that mountain, which would also be a new 14er for him as well. It meant some considerable rearranging of his vacation, but it was important for him to be there with us and support Ellen in her quest as well as claim another 14er for his own. It would be his 48th 14er, as well as my 48th. Arrangements were made to meet at the parking lot at 5:30AM the morning of the climb.
Ellen arranged a nice room for us at the Aspenalt Lodge in Basalt, which had a jacquizzi in it, a welcome reward after the climb. As we drove to Basalt that Friday evening, the weather forecast had deteriorated somewhat, so we left a message on Barry’s voice mail that we were moving up the start time by a half hour. He called back and confirmed, and the stage was set for the climb.
Over the years I had always thought Pyramid was a handsome mountain, and other than Capitol and Castle, was the only Elk Peak that still commanded my interest, but I was in no hurry to climb it. I let the opportunity wander its way into my life through Ellen’s desire to climb the entire compliment of Colorado 14ers. That day had finally arrived, and we were about to find out for ourselves just how difficult the mountain was, and if its reputation was indeed well earned or overblown.Climbing Pyramid PeakWe met Barry at the parking area at 5:00AM as planned, and without much delay, we were on our way. Just like the previous week, we started hiking up the Maroon Creek trail in the dark yet again, hopefully for the last time. We had made numerous visits up this trail, and it was a bit of a relief to think we would not have to do it yet again. The weather was looking good, the stars were out, the air felt calm and stable. We found the Pyramid Peak trail, marked by a big cairn, without any problems, especially since we were there just 7 days ago. Soon the trail began to climb, switchbacking up the steep slopes beneath the famous Pyramid amphitheater.
There are five parts to climbing Pyramid: The main trail, the climb to the amphitheater, the climb up through the amphitheater, the climb out of the amphitheater, and the thousand feet of Class 3 climbing to the summit. We made good time up the slope, and got some good alpenglow shots of the Maroon Bells across the valley. Once in the rocky wasteland of the amphitheater, we made short business of that stretch, reaching the base of the steep and dreaded slope that climbs to the 13,050 foot saddle. After a quick break, we spent the next hour ascending the steep, packed scree trail to the saddle, and like South Maroon’s horrible great slope, we were not looking forward to the inevitable descent down this stretch.
Approaching the Pyramid Amphitheater |
Other groups were ahead of us and were breaking off to climb the final phase of the mountain when we arrived at the saddle. We took a pretty good break and allowed them to gain some distance from us before we set out ourselves. From the saddle, Pyramid is an impressive beast of a mountain. The north face is rarely mentioned when talking about Colorado’s great mountain walls, but Pyramid’s face is nothing to scoff at. From the amphitheater to the summit, it’s two thousand feet of precipitous, loose rock. It’s amazing to think it stays standing in this precarious position given the mountain’s loose reputation. Were it not for the large benches at various levels, this face would be a continuous wall that would easily rival Capitol’s northwest face or Blanca’s north face.
We ended our break and continued our efficient assault on the mountain. Though I expected more resistance in the form of challenges, the mountain offered plenty of fun and exciting obstacles. We had read and heard much about the mountain, and we had seen plenty of photos, so we knew what to expect. Even so, there were a few surprises along the way, which made the mountain more enjoyable.
Approaching Pyramid from the NE Ridge Saddle |
We had read the opinions of previous climbers which consistently stated the mountain was definitely only Class 3, that its bark was worse than its bite, and that it was overrated. While the mountain was well within our abilities, we all agreed the mountain was NOT overrated, that its bite could indeed be much worse than its bark, and there were portions of the route that would border on Class 4 for some folks, especially beginners or shorter folks like me and Ellen. A tall guy like Barry could overcome the obstacles with little effort, and we noted that everyone else on the mountain, save a few, were tall, so the mountain wasn’t much of a challenge. But to us shorter folks, some of the obstacles were indeed a stretch-literally.
The Famous Ledge Crossing |
The exposure is always there on this mountain. It never lets up. It has continuous Class 3 climbing on solid surfaces covered in rubble. Every step, every hold counts. Nothing can be taken for granted, attention must never falter. In some places, notably the Green Couloir, a misstep can be fatal, or at the least, result in severe injury.
Just like climbing in Glacier National Park! |
Climbing the Green Couloir |
Obviously we climbed the mountain and returned safely to share our experience and relay to others the joys of climbing Pyramid Peak. I will let the accompanying pictures do the rest of the telling. Pyramid is a great mountain, and one of Colorado’s finest 14er summits. In many ways it’s much like climbing in Glacier National Park, including the four thousand foot vertical view to the valley floor. Pyramid has this quality in common with the Maroon Bells, and this is likely the only spot in Colorado that can claim such a close comparison to that wonderful phenomenon in Glacier. There’s nothing like peering down four thousand feet to the forest below. It’s a staggering experience.
Our summit stay was brief. Clouds built quickly and rain was falling to the east. Down climbing Pyramid in wet conditions was a situation we wanted to avoid, so after a brief ten minute celebration and cramming some food into our mouths, we began our descent, allowing most of those before us to get a head start. Despite the weather, folks were still coming up the mountain. I had judged the weather was still looking favorable, so there was no need to rush, which is something you don’t want to do on this mountain. Even so, we made an efficient descent. Ninety minutes later, we were at the saddle, having caught up with the other groups, which in turn started their descent down the steep scree slope.
We took a well deserved long break and enjoyed the views as the weather was still cooperating. Our descent down the slope took an hour, and it was a relief that it was nowhere near as bad as the great slope on South Maroon like we had feared. Though steep, it was manageable and even pleasant, and my knees weren’t too upset with me. At the bottom of the slope atop the rock glacier in the amphitheater, we found a rock shelter to enjoy another long break in before descending further. By the time we reached the descent from the amphitheater, my knees and feet had begun to protest.
With the modern convenience of a GPS device, we learned that with all of the traversing on the mountain via switchbacks and such, climbing Pyramid is not a 6 mile jaunt. It's an 8 mile round trip, which is the limit of distance my feet tolerate before they start to hurt.
Incredible View from Pyramid Peak's Ramparts |
AftermathBy the time we reached the main trail, my feet were hurting, but not as bad as they did on last week’s climb of South Maroon, and my knees felt swollen. I had used up all of my supply of Motrin last week and had forgotten to restock, or to think of invading Ellen’s supply. We only had a mile of walking left, so I would just tough it out for the march back to our starting point.
One would think Pyramid would be much like its neighbors, the Maroon Bells, when it comes to climbing. Actually, each of these mountains has its own unique character and they differ quite a bit from one another. For Ellen and me, North Maroon was a pleasant Class 3 climb, South Maroon was nice too save for that nasty great slope, which has to be among the worst stretches of mountain we have experienced.
Pyramid is unlike them yet again. Oh yes, the rock is similar, but the similarity ends there. The climbing is steeper, holds are smaller, surfaces are more tenuous and exposure is constant. It's worth it to climb them all for the variety alone, but for me, Pyramid had that interesting quality that links it to its mountain cousins in Glacier National Park, which is the quality that makes the Pyramid experience especially memorable for me. If you never make it to Glacier National Park, Pyramid gives you a taste of what it's like to climb in that mountain paradise.
We once again had pizza in Aspen before going our separate ways. Barry was thinking of climbing Missouri, or heading back to New Mexico to help his dad with a landscaping project they had been working on. We said our goodbyes and congratulations and Ellen and I returned to our room in Basalt for a nice soaking in the jacquzzi tub.
The following morning, my knees had pretty much recovered, which was encouraging, but my feet were still struggling, reinforcing the notion that they needed a serious break from this 14er bagging. They would get their wish! The following weekend is going to be a short hike-and just a hike-no climbing. My tired feet deserve the break. After a two week rest, it'll be off to climb Tabeguache, which could be yet another monumental climb. It will be Ellen’s last 14er, it will be via a new route and my third ascent of the mountain, and at the time of this writing, it appears we’ll have a number of important and close friends joining us. Hopefully I’ll have the pleasure of writing a report that will finish up this little trilogy marking the end of Ellen’s 14er quest.
It’s nice to know that I’m still in this young man’s game, at least for just one more big mountain this season. What lies beyond that last 14er? Hard to say, but I can say with some certainty, that for the rest of the season, my feet have every right to call the shots! They’ve earned it.
Bidding Farewell to the Maroon Bells |
PART THREE: ENDGAME
Additional ResourcesPyramid Peak Northeast Ridge Route
Pyramid Peak Mixed Climb Trip Report
Getting Exposed to the Elks Trip Report
14ers.com Route Description by Bill Middlebrook-Excellent! Images
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Elk Mountains > Pyramid Peak > Staying in the Game
