When one drives into the Icehouse Canyon parking lot in winter and looks up, they are treated to a sweet view of Telegraph Peak from it's most impressive vantage point. A big, white pyramid rises out of the range, its west face split by one major and one minor couloir leading directly to the peak's southern summit.
Thunder and Telegraph from Baldy Road
I had observed this for a few years and set the face as an objective of mine, hoping to nab whichever couloir would yield good conditions. This face would end up teaching me a bit more about east and west faces in the San Gabriel Mountains.
Attempts
On my first attempt, I decided to turn back just shy of the base of the route, as there was deep, unconsolidated snow covering submerged avalanche debris. I'd rather give up the day than snap my leg between a log and a rock. Postholing sucks.
On May 25th of 2008, Fritz and I decided to give it a shot. A snowstorm in SoCal in late May? 2007-2008's climbing season was a wonderful one! We took the same hike up Icehouse Canyon Trail to Chapman Trail, up to Cedar Glen Campground, and then up the approach gully. Similar conditions to last time, only it was warmer (being May), so I turned us back as the face couldn't possibly be ready. We went off to look for adventure in Icehouse Canyon, where I got us lost on Ontario Peak thinking we were on a southern buttress of Sugarloaf. Whoops.
Third time's a charm? So I hoped as I set off two days after Christmas. Loads of snow made it a great hike in, nice and cool. I wanted to try a different approach this time, moving over a ridge to the south to drop in at the base of the route, hopefully bypassing the postholing approach. Such was not the case, as the new snow made it similar to the old approach. I turned back to face the madness that is Baldy Road in early winter, when throngs of city-folk come up to steal snow, throw trash everywhere, play mariachi music extremely loud, and drive off the shoulder.
Round Four
Alex, a member both on SP and on the SGMDF, said he was interested in doing some technical mountaineering in the SG's. I told him about my proposed route up Telegraph Peak, and he was interested. We set off and arrived in Icehouse Canyon around 0500 or so.
We took the old approach gully up and made it to the base of the route. This is easier in a group, as you have someone to share your gripes with. The snow was nice and firm at the base, and we put our harnesses and gear on to start up the route. I noticed a section of rock that looked like the crux on previous trips, and we soon approached that section.
Alex approaching the crux
An easy waterfall section split the route. There were options for easier travel on the left, or so it looked, but I wanted to do the route in a straight, clean line, so we got ready to send this short section. I chose the rock on the right, avoiding the unfrozen waterfall and the water flowing through the crack on the left. Bare hands and crampons off, I moved up a short distance to try and surmount the obstacle. After putting in a #4 TCU, I hadn't made much progress in my typical slow, careful style, so I let Alex take the lead. Alex said he figured he could run right up the center in no time, though my experience on SG rock like this said he'd be going a bit slow. Things are always much harder than they look in pictures, and in person. Once you're on a rock route here, it's a bit different, even if you don't figure protection into the equation.
Alex on the sharp end
Alex moved up, and jammed into the crack. The cold water turns hands numb in half a minute, and he said he was climbing on with the hope that his hands would hold onto that crack without slipping, as he couldn't feel what they were doing. He fired in one Metolius Curve Nut, the only piece of pro used on the route (One Nut Wonder), into the center of the crack, and slowly moved up. He made it to the top of the pitch without falling, badass considering it was his first trad lead, alpine climb lead, and first time climbing rock in crampons.
Then it was my turn. After sending the gear and packs up to him, he got me toproped in, and I started up, barehanded in crampons. I made it up most of the way until my left crampon didn't want to hold onto a small edge. It scraped off and I fell (about a foot), crushing my left testicle. I had never felt pain like that there, despite receiving many a kick to the testicles as a child. A unique, searing pain went through me as I yelped and scrambled for a hold like a cornered dog with no other options. I finally got up, then fell a few more times. Fun times. This is the other reason why we named the route "One Nut Wonder".
Made it up and was relieved to be on "solid" ground. We cleaned up and moved up a short section of easy mixed ground.
Alex cleaning up the belay station
Easy stuff to the next section of snow
The rest of the route would prove to be simple snow and ice climbing to about 55 degrees or so. A really nice view of the SG's and Los Angeles was behind us.
Taco climbing above the crux
In no time, the route was passing by under our feet, and we approached the final stretch, as the route turned slightly right and continued up easy steep snow with some sections of nice alpine ice.
Alex moving up
Taco action butt shot
The snow softened as we moved through some rocky sections, most of the rocks under the snow. We topped out and were treated to a great view of the north side of Ontario Peak, and the rest of the world.
Alex topped out
We headed east to find a rockring I noticed during a dry season hike up here on the south summit. It was buried somewhere, so we just dropped our gear behind some trees and grabbed our snacks, heading to the top of the south face for a great view for lunch.
Descent was easy, in theory. We headed north towards the primary trail (3-T's), and descended the western side of the mountain, on an easy slope. Staying in the fallen rime kept us afloat for a while. As soon as we were in Cedar Canyon, postholing started to rear its ugly head. Easy at first, it then went through heavy vegitation, mostly consisting of Buckthorn, the most vile of mountain plants. Nothing like going through deep snow with tons of sharp bits poking you everywhere. We did this for what seemed like forever before linking up with Chapman Trail. An easy hike home and a crowded drive down concluded the trip. I closed our store at work that night, so I was a tad tired. That's what winter is all about.
Telegraph Peak
