| Old Original, 2009 Trip Report |
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| Page Type: Trip Report Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.49715°N / 121.20134°W Date Climbed/Hiked: Jan 10, 2009 Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling Season: Winter | Page By: squishy Created/Edited: Apr 30, 2009 / Apr 30, 2009 Object ID: 510239 Hits: 1010 Loading... Page Score: 89.15% - 21 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Pinnacles National Monument, CABack in 2008 Requiem, Lew and I completed “old original” an alpine style route which traverses the entire 600 foot Machete Ridge, the largest rock formation in Pinnacles National Monument. We were new to multi-pitch climbing at the time and gained valuable experience during our epic adventure climb. We brought back amazing stories of dropped gear, sidewalks in the sky and rappels after dark into the caves below, I only escaped by walking miles in wet rock slippers. We had considerable interest from other members and resolved to go back and do it again, this time with the folks who missed it the 1st time around.
aahz belaying his wife up from the top of our 1st pitch. |
Myself, Requiem, Adam, Toxo, Aeger, George, Tofu and Luis all wanted to do the route, so we had to figure out the logistics of having 8 people on the route all roped up and moving together through numerous obstacles. I believe we spent about a week in our forums figuring out the rope teams and gear in order to be successful and as safe as possible. Requiem leads the 1st team with George and Luis. Myself, Adam and Toxo following the two man team of Aeger of Tofu who were in the middle of the two larger groups. Each pitch was a chain of people coming and going. We left the 1st ropes for rappels and the following teams brought ropes to the lower rappels stations to minimize setting up anchors. We learned much about moving a large group that day, and it multiplies everything you do quite a bit.
George, in the orange shirt, is a few feet beyond the crux moves of the entire climb. |
We traversed out to the last pitch of Derringer (5.5) where a bolt sits low hidden by a bush on the south face of Machete Ridge, I find this start a little more spicy and exciting than the normal start to Old Original. We ascended the crumbly face (5.1) using only one bolt low on the route for leader protection. In 2008 this is where I was sitting without a rope as Requiem and Lew swung the rope back down to me with a boot tied to the end, we must have looked like complete amateurs and we were. It’s amazing what just a year of climbing will do with some motivation.
aahz hanging free on the 1st double rope rap. |
We all gained the ridge and began the three long pitches, which were more like walking for much of it. The ridge falls away on both sides as you walk along the very top, one bolt halfway through each pitch protects from falling and swinging when over 100’ of rope is out. Pitch three starts with a class 5.5 traverse which is protected by a bolt, Luis and Adam opted out of rock climbing slippers for the day and found this section difficult. We had to step out over a water chute (possible original start to the Old Original route) and onto a narrow ledge below a headwall.
The Balconies, at Pinnacles National Monument see from Machete Ridge "old original" |
Pitch 5 is the start of the descent and it ends in a free hanging rappel to a nice flat area where the hungry gathered for some snacks. Then it was a small quick section of fourth class downclimbing which we all rappelled down to a larger flat area where we sat to have lunch. This is where many of the standard routes on Machete Ridge top out, a pair of climbers we had talked to earlier at the bottom topped out as we sat there eating. Requiem, Luis and George continued on up the Middle Tower (5.5) and out to the end of Machete ridge. As they returned to us we began the standard rappels down into the gullies below.
The whole gang putting down some donuts before the climb. |
Three pitches later, two of which were double rope rappels, we entered the caves from above in darkness just as planned. Guiding eight people up, across and down the entire length of Machete Ridge is quite a feat. It challenges your planning, logistics, patience and clear headedness when dealing with so many personalities. Luis did some unsanctioned free soloing and others learned that required gear is not just a suggestion. George replaces Lew as coolest head of the team, but he also brought donuts from the west side of the monument in the morning and met us in the caves before the hike. Who knows, maybe we wouldn’t have pulled this off if it weren’t for those donuts. I learned a few very important things during this trip though, always put down the beer before stepping on the slack line, and if you need to get up early, don’t setup the slack line.
“old original” 2009 gallery
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