attempt shut down by an inversion...:-(Got an e-mail from Geoff asking to join for a baker trip. I said, “sure!”. Then the next e-mail was, “what route?” My reply, “Boulder route!” Done, We had plans. Then weather messed with us for a week or so. Then it was on!
I am not much of a volcano climber using the conga line dog routes they make me sick! I have always wanted to do the Boulder Cleaver route On Baker though. I knew the approach was more difficult, more gain (8000'total), distance and had a small crux that keeps most folks out :-). Just my kind of approach, one that keeps others away! Plus it was fun!
We started out @ 2700' and the trail is flat with some ups and downs for 2 miles then crosses a swamp. Wet swamp. Another thing that keeps folks away. GRIN.
Then you start the climb up the ridge. It is a wet, steep in spots , fun climbers path. Wet above my boot top in mud many times.
Then the crux of the approach is to gain Boulder ridge. It is wet and slick but can be climbed carefully. It is somewhat exposed class 3. There is a hand line that was put in I think around 2005. Don't trust it for rappel!
Then it was solid snow and views from there on. We found the perfect camp at 6500'. The mountain was out but shuksan played hide and seek till sunset.
We started out too late in the morning. Overnight an inversion came in and softened things up too much. It was warmer above our camp than it was at our camp!
A combo of the two made it to much of a crap shoot crossing thin snow bridges on the descent. Sun rise was incredible!!
Things just kept getting mushy. @ 9000' we turned around. The bridges were thin! There was hidden crevasses that Chris found and poked through. With the inversion it was too soft as we climbed up there was no way I was going to descend later in the day. Why chance it hey. Shrug. Two guys (only others on the route) turned around 2 hours before we did. They post holed up to their crotch in our bucket steps Geoff kicked and called it a day. We will come back when conditions are better and we will start earlier..
Our descent was fun. I glissades a good section of it.
Packed up camp and headed down. We repelled the cliff. Just makes it safer with the heavy packs on.
This route is a great route and lots of fun. It is a long, hard route to do in 2 days.
What a great time I had! Great partners and beautiful /fun climbing! Thanks geoff and chris!
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Cascade Volcanoes
