Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.75930°N / 14.98580°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climbing routes |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Up to II or III on UIAA scale |
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Gromovaca (1676m): 1h
From refuge you head in Zavizan direction. For detailed description read Zavizan – Rossijevo Skloniste route which is described in opposite direction.
Some 40mins from refuge is junction from which is 15mins of steep climb till the summit.
Pasaricev Kuk (1630m): 10-15mins
Rossijevo Skloniste stands just by its smooth cliffs. To climb it use steep gully just behind refuge. There are enough grips in the cliffs. On top of gully turn left to the summit.
Rossijev Kuk (1615m) – Novotnijev Kuk (1620m) – Vratarski Kuk (1676m): 2.15h
This is trail par excellence which will take you through the heart of Rozanski Kukovi and reveal many hidden corners. Trail has climbing character and is tough because of so many ups and downs. At the end of the trail is Vratarski Kuk (1676m), one of best inner view points on entire Velebit. Slavko Tomerlin, well known Velebit enthusiast, path and refuge builder, found the path, cleared it from massive amounts of dwarf pine and marked in 1994. You can also combine this trail with Varnjaca chasm and Varnjaca peak trails.
From Rossijevo Skloniste refuge take Alan (south) direction. You reach the junction 5-10mins from refuge. Marks take you left and climb towards Rossijev Kuk (1615m) begins. Scramble over boulders ends in 5-20mins as you reach the summit.
Path now descends towards pass between two peaks. Next goal is Novotnijev Kuk (1620m). Marks climb very steeply till its summit which you reach in next 10-15mins.
Just behind the summit there is important junction. From right we are joined by marks from Varnjaca (1634m) and Varnjaca chasm.
From this point path is hard to describe. It is an hour long scramble, up and down many times, with steep ascents and descents. Path uses narrow ridges which are above wild chasms. Many of them contain eternal snow. Vratarski Kuk is in sight all the time and its rounded summit is little bit right of our direction. On one spot there is fixed metal rope. To the right is amazing chasm without bottom surrounded by perpendicular cliffs of Vratarski Kuk.
Behind this spot you descent into stunted beech forest. Here is important junction to the left. That path descends into Fabin Dolac and climbs back to refuge.
After few dozen meter you reach Vratarsko Sedlo pass. There is short descent and another junction. Left path descends towards Lubenovacka Vrata pass and continues towards Hajducki Kukovi, Mali rajinac or Lubenovac.
You turn right and after a short but very steep climb reach a ridge. Behind is another short descent over rock and ascent to next level. Behind it is yet another short descent and final ascent through rocky passage and over the boulder to the summit (30mins from Vratarsko Sedlo).
Return. Rarely would someone have desire to return the same way to refuge. If you don’t won’t to torture yourself return to junction where is right towards Fabin Dolac. Path ascends to the ridge through dwarf pine and begins wild descent which is steep and goes over massive boulders. In some 20-30mins you are down and reach junction where we join Rossijevo Skloniste – Lomska Duliba path. Here you turn left.
There is 30mins of steep climbing to Premuziceva Staza path which you reach 10mins before refuge (Zavizan – Rossijevo Skloniste route). Path is now cut into the cliffs of Pasaricev Kuk. On the left is amazing 150m deep basin and Novotnijev Kuk (1620m) on the opposite side. After this attractive spot, in 5 mins, path turns sharply right and you reach Rossijevo Skloniste refuge. Return from Vratarski Kuk lasts 2h.
Varnjaca chasm: 1h
From refuge you head towards Alan (more detail in Alan – Rossijevo Skloniste route). After some 20mins you reach sharp right bend, with nice view toward cliffs of Varnjaca (1643m), where is junction.
Marks will lead you left, through dwarf pine. After short descent marks climb onto sharp ridge and further towards the pass between Novotnijev Kuk (1620m) and Varnjaca (1634m) where you reach the edge of chasm (25mins from junction). Here is junction where towards right is Varnjaca (1634m) peak trail. Using attractive secured path descent to its bottom.
Return. You have 4 option from here. 1) to return same the way. 2) 25mins of further climbing will take you to Rossijev Kuk (1615m) – Novotnijev Kuk (1620m) – Vratarski Kuk (1676m) trail described above. There you can go left towards Rossijevo Skloniste refuge over Novotnijev Kuk and Rossijev Kuk (1h to refuge) or 3) go right towards Vratarski Kuk (3h to refuge). 4) Head towards Varnjaca (1634m) peak, cross over it and return via Premuziceva Staza path (1.20h to refuge).
Varnjaca (1634m): 1h
From refuge you head towards Alan (more detail in Alan – Rossijevo Skloniste route). After some 25mins, just before Crikvena (1641m) climb, you reach junction. Marks first descent through dwarf pine and cliffs to the foothills of Varnjaca cliffs and then climb very steeply to the summit ridge. Once you reach it is much easier walk.
Return. There a two options. 1) return the same way. 2) continue towards Varnjaca chasm. To reach it it takes some 20mins of descending. From there read in the section above.
Crikvena (1641m): 30mins
Crikvena is beautiful view point 30mins from refuge in Alan direction (more detail in Alan – Rossijevo Skloniste route). This section of Premuziceva Staza path is probably the most beautiful. Once you reach narrow pass between western and eastern Crikvena it is another 5mins of easy climbing to summit (of western Crikvena).
Krajacev Kuk (1659m): 1.30h
From Rossijevo Skloniste refuge head towards Alan direction (more detail in Alan – Rossijevo Skloniste route). After 1 hour you reach junction where is left towards the summit which you reach after some 30mins of steep climbing, firstly through spruce threes and later over the rocks and through dwarf pine.