Ultra Brewers, III, 5.9

1st Pitch- 55m- 5.8/ Climb past the two lower bolts and into the corner. At first, you are probably saying to yourself that this first pitch is not as bad as made out by previous accounts, but then the shit, literally, just keeps coming until it is almost impossible to keep your gear, rope and hands out of it. The rock quality leaves a lot to be desired as you test every hold. But the crack does afford decent protection. I advise you pass up a fixed (bolts-2012) belay station along the way. As you near the roof above, look for an airy traverse out right on horrible rock. I placed a small piece a bit high before down climbing back to this traverse. Traverse right into a chimney with an old piton (2012). Either belay here on gear due to rope drag or if you ran your ropes well, continue up another 10 meters to a fixed belay on a comfortable ledge. Ultra Brewers, III, 5.9, Castle Mountain, Banff National Park, July, 2012