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Unicorn Peak May 2013
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Unicorn Peak May 2013

 
Unicorn Peak May 2013

Page Type: Album

Object Title: Unicorn Peak May 2013

 

Page By: Matt Lemke

Created/Edited: May 9, 2013 / May 9, 2013

Object ID: 848995

Hits: 1181 

Page Score: 73.06% - 3 Votes 

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Unicorn Peak 5.6 South Face via Snow Lake

So the weekend after doing Lane and Plummer, I wanted to climb The Unicorn because I heard it had a fun easy technical climb at the end. Plus, it is the highest peak in the Tatoosh Range. So I called up Max to see if he would be interested and he was so early Saturday morning the first weekend in Map we headed out with a perfect weather forecast. At 7am we arrived at Narada Falls and began hiking the Stevens Canyon road for 3 miles to the Snow Lake trailhead. From here we left the road and began hiking on snow breaking trail through the large flat area known as the Bench and arriving at Snow Lake a couple hours later. From here we could see the gully we were going to climb and the north face of The Unicorn looking hellish. We continued slogging in ankle to knee deep snow up the gully into the upper bowl where the snow conditions radically improved and we were able to make very good time up to the saddle between The Unicorn and its lower west peak. From here we took a short break and finished the hike up to the base of the summit pitch. I was happy to see it completely dry and I led up the 5.6 crack right in the center of the 50 foot south face of the summit block. I only placed a couple pieces  as it was so short but fun indeed. I belayed Max up and we relaxed in the sun on the summit with perfect views of Rainier, Adams, St. Helens, and all of the Tatoosh Range. What a sight! When we had our fill we rappelled down (30 meter rope is the perfect length for a single rope rappel) and retraced our steps back down. Might I add we glissaded nearly the entire way down to Snow Lake which was some of the best glissades I have ever done as the snow conditions were beyond perfect. The final hike back across the bench and back up the road was long but still pretty. What a great day!

Images


Tatoosh Range panorama from the Nisqually glacier

Tatoosh Range panorama from the Nisqually glacier

Me leading up the 5.6 climb

Me leading up the 5.6 climb

Mount Rainier

Mount Rainier

Pointing back at the Unicorn from Paradise

Pointing back at the Unicorn from Paradise

Stevens Peak from the summit

Stevens Peak from the summit

Lane Peak from the road

Lane Peak from the road

Mount Rainier

Mount Rainier

View from Snow Lake

View from Snow Lake

Rapelling the summit block

Rapelling the summit block

Climbing the snow gully

Climbing the snow gully

Our glissade path down from the saddle

Our glissade path down from the saddle

Upper bowl with the Unicorn at left

Upper bowl with the Unicorn at left

Traversing the final ridge

Traversing the final ridge

Looking up the 5.6 crack

Looking up the 5.6 crack

Looking down at my belay

Looking down at my belay


[ View Gallery - 9 More Images ]



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