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mbtA bit of everything  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2013
I climbed this with the Mazamas last June. We had beautiful weather and a generally uneventful climb. We started around 8 and hit snow almost immediately out of the parking lot. It's a gradual hike to the lake that involved some route-finding. Then we hit the snow chutes, which seemed quite steep to me (admittedly my experience is limited). We did use crampons and ice axes for the two snow chutes. After that, we hit the rock pinnacle and climbed I think the 5.0 route -- it was around the side from the 5.6 routes and didn't have any crazy exposure, which I've heard the 4th class route has. Anyway, it was a super easy climb. I had been stressed most about the rock part and found it to be the easiest part of the climb. We then repelled off the front part of the pinnacle (by the 5.6 routes), where I took a lovely pendulum swing and banged an already injured leg into a rock wall, so go me! For complete newbies like me, the repel was more challenging because it went against the fall line. Finally, we glissaded down the upper snow chute but opted to avoid glissading the lower snow chute due to some exposed rocks.

So a little of everything -- I took this right after taking the Mazamas basic climbing class, and it's well suited for that. Other thoughts -- avoid later summer climbs because getting up those chutes is way easier when there's snow.
Posted Jun 26, 2014 7:43 pm

gimpilator4 peaks in a day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2014

gimpilator

Unicorn, Foss, The Castle, and Pinnacle. See my report:
http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=944005

We raced a bus load of The Mountaineers and beat them to the summit block. We climbed the 5.6 route.
Posted Jun 22, 2014 3:04 pm

ndriley97Sunny Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2014
Beautiful, rare sunny day! Great views of Rainier throughout much of the route.
Posted Jun 11, 2014 1:47 pm

olymountainmanUnicorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2013

olymountainman

Fun climb!
Posted Jan 12, 2014 11:17 pm

pingzingrSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013

pingzingr

Good day in the Tatoosh as usual. Clouds were in and out all day and I can definitely see why this is a good early summer climb. Would have been a hell of a lot easier with snow in the upper bowls. Right side 5.0 lines had a bit of exposure and was nerve-wracking being the only guy on the mountain!
Posted Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am

cyffredinolA fun day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2013

cyffredinol

My first (successful) climb with the Mazamas after BCEP. Very enjoyable climb despite the clouds hiding the view.
Posted Jun 5, 2013 12:33 am

Matt LemkeAwesome sunny day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 4, 2013

Matt Lemke

Great snow for kicking up and the final summit pitch was dry. Led the 5.6 crack route. Fun little climb and awesome views of rainier
Posted May 6, 2013 9:18 pm

nicozoneAwesome Little Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012

nicozone

Compared to it's immediate neighbor to the north (Mt. Rainier), Unicorn Peak isn't tall or heavily glaciated. But it does feature two exciting snow chutes and a perfect rock summit block. We climbed the 5.4 route just to the right of the 5.6 route with a roof climb on a boulder at the top of the route. I lead and it took a #4 and #12 nut, plus a draw into the shaky old bolt in the middle of the route. I clipped the bolt because it was there, but I wouldn't advice falling on it.
Posted Jul 30, 2012 4:05 am

gatoRainy day diversion  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010

gato

Fun day with great friends.
Posted Aug 7, 2010 11:04 pm

DundeelSnow Lake route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2010

Dundeel

Climbed with Mountaineers. Deep snow from the TH. Summit block icy. Used fixed rope up the scramble route. Strong wind and no visibility but a great group.
Posted May 30, 2010 11:57 am

ericwillhitetwice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1998

ericwillhite

First time solo, then back years later with friends. Map and pictures at http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/unicorn_peak/tatoosh_range_105.htm
Posted Oct 5, 2009 4:07 am

DoehleSnow lake trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Doehle

With The Castle, out via Pinncle/Plumber saddle
Posted Aug 3, 2009 6:56 pm

YEMSnow Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008

YEM

Thanks Justafafish and Dan for a great day in the mountains. Was that granite down low?
Posted Sep 8, 2008 5:54 pm

mrbynumSnow Lake Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008

mrbynum

Ah yes, my first glaciated peak! A fantastic trip with great views of Adams, St. Helens, Hood in the distance, and of course Ranier up close and personal. Best part of the day was the climb to the actual summit. Snow was well packed through most layers with the top 1-3 inches fairly soft in mid day sun and mostly solid in the shade. Snow bridges near Snow Lake are getting thin so we had to use extra caution. The chute from the upper bowl to the saddle was a bit dicey on the decent with the snow slope slanting into scree.
Posted Jul 14, 2008 4:45 pm

Bob BoltonSnow Lake trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008

Bob Bolton

Finally some decent weather for a climb! Actually it was way better than decent -- it was outstanding, if a bit warm. Snow all the way from the road. Fun approach hike, fun rock summit, and not being a rock climber I did the easy route. Fantastic views in all directions.
Posted Jul 9, 2008 7:07 pm

tleafClimbed with my Father-in-law  Sucess!

tleaf

Probably 10 years ago we had a great climb on a week day in summer. We both felt great, the scenery was incredible, the weather perfect.
Posted May 13, 2008 6:53 pm

Dan WinterSnow Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2005

Dan Winter

The weather looked "iffy" but stayed dry. My parter and I got a good laugh at the length of the rock route compared to the size of his FULL rack. The glissade down made me smile:)
Posted May 1, 2008 1:10 am

spotlySnow Lake
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

spotly

Climbed with Tazz and AB. A fun little alpine route. Saw someone slide off the main ridge into the bowl above the first pass...tumbled out of control. Surprisingly not seriously hurt.
Posted Jul 20, 2007 4:20 pm

KrylonUnicorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2006

Krylon

Started the approach in the rain, but things cleared up. Glad we pressed on.
Posted Nov 27, 2006 11:24 pm

osatrikFun in the Sun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 1999

osatrik

My daughter Hillary and I did this climb. We wished we'd brought our crampons, but took our time in the shadowed intial gully up from the lake, and even cut a few steps with our ice axes. The larger snowfield to the saddle was also firm, but climbable. We took the far right route on the rock climb, nice and exposed to the right! Some route descriptions say to go around to the south side of the mountain from the saddle, but the "headwall" right there at the saddle is not all that tough, and saves time.
Saw about a dozen goats on the snowfield to the east as we reached the east ridge just prior to the summit.
Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:03 pm

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