Unicorn Peak Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Brian Jenkins||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 24, 2005|
|The approach was longer than expected. Pretty mellow until after Snow Lake, then steep. Not sure if we took the right gully up as there was some bushwhacking to do but we found our way up and around the back. Went up a blocky gully and David led the quick pitch to the summit. We then traversed (sidehilled through flowery meadows) over and did The Castle.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2005 10:04 am|
|cusmx5||Route Climbed: Snow Lake and south side of summit block Date Climbed: May 1, 2005|
|Great climb for Boealps Indigo team. Fun glissade on the way down.|
|Posted Jul 19, 2005 7:38 pm|
|jtschanz||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: June 4, 2005|
|This was a fun climb, even though the views of Rainier were limited by lots of clouds and fog. We carried our skis up and enjoyed a fun descent which was over much too quickly! The snow is melting fast - soon this will be a scree slog.|
|Posted Jun 6, 2005 8:01 pm|
|hkutuk||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: June 4, 2005|
|It was nice to get out and do some climbing and breathing fresh mountain air after spending two weeks in the warm eastern Mediterranean. Fun little enjoyable climb with some snow and short rock pitch on top. Topped it with some more rock climbing in Tieton the next day.|
|Posted Jun 6, 2005 1:27 pm|
|linxweiler||Route Climbed: Snow Lake, South Side Date Climbed: June 3, 2005|
|Beautiful climb with a bit too many clouds. It was suprising just how little snow there was getting to Snow Lake - which made for a less than enjoyable ascent out of the Snow Lake basin over scree and boulders.|
Can't wait to do this one on a clear day!
|Posted Jun 5, 2005 3:42 pm|
|skook||Route Climbed: Snow Lake and Classic Date Climbed: August 13th 2004|
|Took a little longer to get in than expected, the scree made the trip interesting but very enjoyable.|
|Posted Aug 22, 2004 3:31 pm|
|pksander||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Trail Date Climbed: August 16, 2004|
|A rather wild climb with Mark Savoca on a very hot--even muggy--summer day. All went fine until we hit the snow fields heading towards the saddle... then... not. The snow was too hard for ice axes, so we went up the scree; we probably climbed (crawled) the slope three times to top out near the saddle. A wayward way up to the far side of the Unicorn ridge (lots of rockfall going up) and made it to the top to find huge thunderheads bearing down on us from the north. A tense trip down, rushing to beat a thunderstorm that seemed immanent, but which never happened. Long, tense day, but fun...|
|Posted Aug 19, 2004 11:19 pm|
|wildstar||Route Climbed: Snow Lake and Classic Date Climbed: August 13, 2004|
|A much more enjoyable climb than I expected. It would be fun to go back in the winter and spring.|
|Posted Aug 14, 2004 12:39 am|
|amochka||Route Climbed: Snow Lake trail Date Climbed: July 24, 2004|
|Beautiful trip up, a little slow going in the chute and on a few of the screefields up top. Very little snow left except for the large snowfield below the summit...significant moat, we had to be a little cautious on the rocks on the way up. Great rock climb to the top of the horn, my first 5th class summit. Unfortunately, an injury in the party on the way down (near the snowfield) kept us busy for the rest of the day and night with an evacuation. We sent party members ahead to alert rangers, and before dark a group of rangers arrived to coordinate a litter evac. from the base of the chute. Exhausting experience, but will hopefully go back to climb it again under different circumstances. A beautiful mixed climb with amazing views of Rainier.|
|Posted Jul 27, 2004 10:43 am|
|jtschanz||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 10, 2004|
|Climbed on a |
|Posted Jul 12, 2004 11:56 am|
|esugi||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Trailhead approach Date Climbed: June 27, 2004|
|Fantastic weather. Left car at 9:45 and reached base of rock section in approx. 2 hours. Very easy approach. My first alpine rock lead. Tried to pick the hardest route but kept getting interrupted by the beautiful view of Rainier, Little T, and other Tatoosh Range Mountains. Rappelled off using the existing webbing and ring (both in very good shape).|
|Posted Jun 27, 2004 11:52 pm|
|Moni||Route Climbed: Snow Lake & Classic Date Climbed: 24 Jun 2004|
|With Tanya and Fred Spicker. Had it all to ourselves except for a bunch of goats (real ones). Very hot! Snow firm but doable without crampons in the morning. Softened nicely for the descent. Beautiful views.|
How come the trail out is more uphill than down? Groan.
|Posted Jun 26, 2004 9:54 am|
|Fred Spicker||Route Climbed: Snow Lake & Classic on Summit Pinnacle Date Climbed: 24 June 2004|
|Climbed with Moni & Tanya Spicker. A very hot day. We were the only party on the peak. |
There is still plenty of snow on the approach. The moat at the top of the last snowfield is starting to open up, but we still found a walk off on to the rock.
|Posted Jun 26, 2004 8:58 am|
|cluck||Route Climbed: Standard - Snow Lake Date Climbed: 6/19/04|
|Great time on Unicorn. One big group ahead of us on the pinnacle made for slow going. We climbed the South Chimney on the pinnacle, one very short pitch with a 5.6 crux.|
Highly recommended for a short alpine climb. 2 snow pitches in the 30-35 degree range, short rock scramble at the top (easiest route is 4th class) and great glissades back down.
|Posted Jun 21, 2004 4:11 pm|
|sublimesalamander||Date Climbed: 22 MAY 2004|
|Easy approach. The snow gave way to a very chossie but fun climb.|
|Posted May 22, 2004 4:33 pm|
|jhalz||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: August 23, 2003|
|This was our 2nd peak of the Tatoosh Traverse. Fun climb up from Snow Lake, lots of scree and a small patch of steep snow. We scrambled up the SE route, no pro, no ropes.|
|Posted Aug 25, 2003 9:21 am|
|K Williams||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 13 2003|
|Summited with no veiw due to poor weather. On the way down the weather cleared and we had great veiws of the Peak. Route is partly snow covered making for a fun mixed snow/rock climb. Will be back, only earlier in the season next time.|
|Posted Jul 22, 2003 1:26 am|
|cluck||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: May 31, 2003|
|Busy route this weekend! We saw several large parties and quite a few smaller ones.|
Climbing conditions are really good right now:
- Snow all the way to the trailhead, but it's firm enough that you don't need snow shoes.
- The snow is pretty solid over the creeks and broken talus above Snow Lake, so no plunging into rocky caverns.
- Unicorn Glacier is filled in to the top of the headwall so no rock scrambling to get off the glacier and no moat to negotiate.
- Summit pinnacle completely free from snow.
- Great glissading from the summit back to Snow Lake!
|Posted Jun 3, 2003 12:29 pm|
|rpc||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: early 08/2002|
|My wife and I climbed this peak in nasty weather - snow/rain mix + fog. Did not have any views. This was my first alpine trad lead. Interesting climb - a nice mix. of somewhat steep snow approach + scree + 1 pitch of easy rock - all packed into the 5 or 6 round trip miles!|
|Posted Oct 14, 2002 4:00 pm|
|darinchadwick||Route Climbed: Tatoosh Traverse from Snow Lakes Date Climbed: July 1994? 95?|
|Our first peak of the Tatoosh Traverse, and one of the best summits of the range. We camped at the saddle, and enjoyed and incredible sunset and sunrise. Next time, I'll bring skis. The little bump to the right was the first summit for my best climbing buddy, Jon Gessle (Mt. Gesswick? such hubris!) and now he's gone on to greater things, but this was his humble start.|
|Posted Sep 12, 2002 11:01 am|