Unicorn Peak Climber's Log
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|cluck||Route Climbed: Standard - Snow Lake Date Climbed: 6/19/04|
|Great time on Unicorn. One big group ahead of us on the pinnacle made for slow going. We climbed the South Chimney on the pinnacle, one very short pitch with a 5.6 crux.|
Highly recommended for a short alpine climb. 2 snow pitches in the 30-35 degree range, short rock scramble at the top (easiest route is 4th class) and great glissades back down.
|Posted Jun 21, 2004 4:11 pm|
|sublimesalamander||Date Climbed: 22 MAY 2004|
|Easy approach. The snow gave way to a very chossie but fun climb.|
|Posted May 22, 2004 4:33 pm|
|jhalz||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: August 23, 2003|
|This was our 2nd peak of the Tatoosh Traverse. Fun climb up from Snow Lake, lots of scree and a small patch of steep snow. We scrambled up the SE route, no pro, no ropes.|
|Posted Aug 25, 2003 9:21 am|
|K Williams||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 13 2003|
|Summited with no veiw due to poor weather. On the way down the weather cleared and we had great veiws of the Peak. Route is partly snow covered making for a fun mixed snow/rock climb. Will be back, only earlier in the season next time.|
|Posted Jul 22, 2003 1:26 am|
|cluck||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: May 31, 2003|
|Busy route this weekend! We saw several large parties and quite a few smaller ones.|
Climbing conditions are really good right now:
- Snow all the way to the trailhead, but it's firm enough that you don't need snow shoes.
- The snow is pretty solid over the creeks and broken talus above Snow Lake, so no plunging into rocky caverns.
- Unicorn Glacier is filled in to the top of the headwall so no rock scrambling to get off the glacier and no moat to negotiate.
- Summit pinnacle completely free from snow.
- Great glissading from the summit back to Snow Lake!
|Posted Jun 3, 2003 12:29 pm|
|rpc||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: early 08/2002|
|My wife and I climbed this peak in nasty weather - snow/rain mix + fog. Did not have any views. This was my first alpine trad lead. Interesting climb - a nice mix. of somewhat steep snow approach + scree + 1 pitch of easy rock - all packed into the 5 or 6 round trip miles!|
|Posted Oct 14, 2002 4:00 pm|
|darinchadwick||Route Climbed: Tatoosh Traverse from Snow Lakes Date Climbed: July 1994? 95?|
|Our first peak of the Tatoosh Traverse, and one of the best summits of the range. We camped at the saddle, and enjoyed and incredible sunset and sunrise. Next time, I'll bring skis. The little bump to the right was the first summit for my best climbing buddy, Jon Gessle (Mt. Gesswick? such hubris!) and now he's gone on to greater things, but this was his humble start.|
|Posted Sep 12, 2002 11:01 am|
|cluck||Route Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 14, 2002|
|Excellent afternoon climb! We left Snow Lake trailhead at around 11:00 am and hiked the first mile on dry trail. The hiking turned to snow slogging at Snow Lake and we soon switched to crampons for some 40 degree snow slopes. The last part of the climb is some rock scrambling and one 40 foot easy 5th class pitch to climb the spire. An easy rap off the top and we were on our way down by mid-afternoon. |
Stunning views of Mt. Rainier the entire way.
|Posted Sep 11, 2002 6:25 pm|