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Unicorn Peak Climber's Log

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spotlySnow Lake
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006


Climbed with Tazz and AB. A fun little alpine route. Saw someone slide off the main ridge into the bowl above the first pass...tumbled out of control. Surprisingly not seriously hurt.
Posted Jul 20, 2007 4:20 pm

KrylonUnicorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2006


Started the approach in the rain, but things cleared up. Glad we pressed on.
Posted Nov 27, 2006 11:24 pm

osatrikFun in the Sun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 1999


My daughter Hillary and I did this climb. We wished we'd brought our crampons, but took our time in the shadowed intial gully up from the lake, and even cut a few steps with our ice axes. The larger snowfield to the saddle was also firm, but climbable. We took the far right route on the rock climb, nice and exposed to the right! Some route descriptions say to go around to the south side of the mountain from the saddle, but the "headwall" right there at the saddle is not all that tough, and saves time.
Saw about a dozen goats on the snowfield to the east as we reached the east ridge just prior to the summit.
Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:03 pm

Karl HelserClimbing in Hell...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006

Karl Helser

88 deg at the summit at 10:30am. We left the TH at 6:30am so the snow stayed firm enough to stay on for the ascent up the gullies. We stayed in the mote most of the way down. The views were awesome most of the morning but afternoon they became very hazy. Saw the allusive marmot and an adult Mt goat with its kid.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 7:17 pm

thundercloudSnow Lake / The Roof  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006


Nice clear morning, climbed with my pal casually as I was feeling quite miserable from possible slight food poisoning. Alone on the mountain until the descent when we passed a few folks. Slightly awkward move getting out of the chimney on the Roof route. Fun short mixed route. Possible thunderheads rolling in for the afternoon but we were back at the car at 1 PM and made a quick dash to nearest WC for relief.
Posted Jun 24, 2006 5:59 pm

thetathreesGreat day, for the most part!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006


A steady rain at Sunshine campground led to the wonderful surprise of clear blue skies when we reached the trailhead. A bunch of avalanche lilies were blooming right at the trailhead and they were the last flowers we saw as the trail was all under several feet of snow. Once we reached Snow Lake and began the ascent, there were excellent steps kicked into the snow so we never needed our crampons. A lenticular cloud formed over Rainier as we approached Snow Lake, and was the first sign of the weather to come. As we approached the summit, clouds rolled in, obscuring our views of other peaks and Rainier. We were able to cross the moat at the top of the snowfield pretty easily, but it might be more difficult in a few weeks when some snow melts down as the walkup to it was pretty narrow (only about a foot and a half across). Once we all gathered at the top of the summit rock, hail and a "wintry mix" began to pelt us, so we rappelled down as quickly as possible and began our descent. Once we got off the summit and enjoyed loooong glissades down, it cleared up somewhat and we enjoyed more sun and warm temps. Excellent climb, not too difficult with a good mix of scenery and skills!
Posted Jun 12, 2006 11:20 pm

esullenderRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2005
No snow made for a wobbly traverse and valley climb after Snow Lake. Snow steps up the bowl and a dusty rock traverse and easy climb led to the summit. Lost of slipping and sliding back down to the lake.
Posted Sep 16, 2005 1:47 am

cusmx5Route Climbed: Snow Lake and south side of summit block Date Climbed: May 1, 2005  Sucess!
Great climb for Boealps Indigo team. Fun glissade on the way down.
Posted Jul 19, 2005 7:38 pm

jtschanzRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: June 4, 2005  Sucess!


This was a fun climb, even though the views of Rainier were limited by lots of clouds and fog. We carried our skis up and enjoyed a fun descent which was over much too quickly! The snow is melting fast - soon this will be a scree slog.
Posted Jun 6, 2005 8:01 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: June 4, 2005  Sucess!


It was nice to get out and do some climbing and breathing fresh mountain air after spending two weeks in the warm eastern Mediterranean. Fun little enjoyable climb with some snow and short rock pitch on top. Topped it with some more rock climbing in Tieton the next day.
Posted Jun 6, 2005 1:27 pm

linxweilerRoute Climbed: Snow Lake, South Side Date Climbed: June 3, 2005  Sucess!


Beautiful climb with a bit too many clouds. It was suprising just how little snow there was getting to Snow Lake - which made for a less than enjoyable ascent out of the Snow Lake basin over scree and boulders.

Can't wait to do this one on a clear day!
Posted Jun 5, 2005 3:42 pm

skookRoute Climbed: Snow Lake and Classic Date Climbed: August 13th 2004  Sucess!


Took a little longer to get in than expected, the scree made the trip interesting but very enjoyable.
Posted Aug 22, 2004 3:31 pm

pksanderRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Trail Date Climbed: August 16, 2004  Sucess!


A rather wild climb with Mark Savoca on a very hot--even muggy--summer day. All went fine until we hit the snow fields heading towards the saddle... then... not. The snow was too hard for ice axes, so we went up the scree; we probably climbed (crawled) the slope three times to top out near the saddle. A wayward way up to the far side of the Unicorn ridge (lots of rockfall going up) and made it to the top to find huge thunderheads bearing down on us from the north. A tense trip down, rushing to beat a thunderstorm that seemed immanent, but which never happened. Long, tense day, but fun...
Posted Aug 19, 2004 11:19 pm

wildstarRoute Climbed: Snow Lake and Classic Date Climbed: August 13, 2004  Sucess!


A much more enjoyable climb than I expected. It would be fun to go back in the winter and spring.
Posted Aug 14, 2004 12:39 am

amochkaRoute Climbed: Snow Lake trail Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!


Beautiful trip up, a little slow going in the chute and on a few of the screefields up top. Very little snow left except for the large snowfield below the summit...significant moat, we had to be a little cautious on the rocks on the way up. Great rock climb to the top of the horn, my first 5th class summit. Unfortunately, an injury in the party on the way down (near the snowfield) kept us busy for the rest of the day and night with an evacuation. We sent party members ahead to alert rangers, and before dark a group of rangers arrived to coordinate a litter evac. from the base of the chute. Exhausting experience, but will hopefully go back to climb it again under different circumstances. A beautiful mixed climb with amazing views of Rainier.
Posted Jul 27, 2004 10:43 am

jtschanzRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Date Climbed: July 10, 2004  Sucess!


Climbed on a shi foggy day, so there were no views of Ranier or the other Tatoosh peaks. Fun little summit pinnacle - I climbed the easy route on the southeast side, then downclimbed and tried another route on the south face. Got back to the car at 2pm just as it started raining and headed up to Paradise to check out the flowers (and the crowds!).
Posted Jul 12, 2004 11:56 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Snow Lake Trailhead approach Date Climbed: June 27, 2004  Sucess!


Fantastic weather. Left car at 9:45 and reached base of rock section in approx. 2 hours. Very easy approach. My first alpine rock lead. Tried to pick the hardest route but kept getting interrupted by the beautiful view of Rainier, Little T, and other Tatoosh Range Mountains. Rappelled off using the existing webbing and ring (both in very good shape).

Posted Jun 27, 2004 11:52 pm

MoniRoute Climbed: Snow Lake & Classic Date Climbed: 24 Jun 2004  Sucess!


With Tanya and Fred Spicker. Had it all to ourselves except for a bunch of goats (real ones). Very hot! Snow firm but doable without crampons in the morning. Softened nicely for the descent. Beautiful views.

How come the trail out is more uphill than down? Groan.
Posted Jun 26, 2004 9:54 am

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: Snow Lake & Classic on Summit Pinnacle Date Climbed: 24 June 2004  Sucess!

Fred Spicker

Climbed with Moni & Tanya Spicker. A very hot day. We were the only party on the peak.

There is still plenty of snow on the approach. The moat at the top of the last snowfield is starting to open up, but we still found a walk off on to the rock.
Posted Jun 26, 2004 8:58 am

cluckRoute Climbed: Standard - Snow Lake Date Climbed: 6/19/04  Sucess!


Great time on Unicorn. One big group ahead of us on the pinnacle made for slow going. We climbed the South Chimney on the pinnacle, one very short pitch with a 5.6 crux.

Highly recommended for a short alpine climb. 2 snow pitches in the 30-35 degree range, short rock scramble at the top (easiest route is 4th class) and great glissades back down.
Posted Jun 21, 2004 4:11 pm

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