atavist - Mar 15, 2013 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Mar 13, 2013
Clintonian
Climbed with Andy from JTree. We parked on the highway and left the car just after 11am and got started on the route about 1. Two parties ahead of us but we all met in the ledge at the top of 3. Two guys rapped from there but we continued with the other team and rapped off together in the dark. We actually saved the last pitch for the following day after climbing Ginger Cracks.
The first pitch goes nicely without the tree at 9 or 10a. The climbing is fairly sustained throughout especially pitch 1 & 2. 6th pitch also gets a little thin. The final arĂȘte has amazing position but isn't harder than 5.8.
BLong - Oct 29, 2010 6:04 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2010
Great Climb
Fun, long, bolted face climb up the Ginger Butress at Red Rocks. The belay stations were at weird locations (several hanging belays that could have easily been on ledges 15' higher or lower). Great crimpy moves -- definitely recommended!
Dow Williams - Mar 10, 2009 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2009
Unimpeachable Groping
I felt like "groping" my partner to warm my fingers this was so damn cold towards the end ("not that there is anything wrong with that"). Look for a high in Vegas of 65f minimum, that ought to put this route ok when the sun leaves around noon in Feb-early March. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches, I think more than 16 draws are needed unless you are going to pass a few. The roof was fun, but relatively easy compared to the face climbing. My partner did stop short twice after that due to the confusion of the rap line with the stations, but it all works...just makes for a long 5th and 7th pitch. Actually made that 7th pitch 200' on the money. I recommend scrambling down to the notch for your first rappel off the backside. We rapped from the summit, but got our ropes stuck on loose blocks at an intermediary ledge. I have rapped the notch before with no worries. Good climb, definitely not any harder than 10b even though one guide book suggests 10d. Bolts spaced close together compared to other long sport routes I have been on. With Peter from Oakland
atavist - Mar 15, 2013 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Mar 13, 2013
ClintonianClimbed with Andy from JTree. We parked on the highway and left the car just after 11am and got started on the route about 1. Two parties ahead of us but we all met in the ledge at the top of 3. Two guys rapped from there but we continued with the other team and rapped off together in the dark. We actually saved the last pitch for the following day after climbing Ginger Cracks.
The first pitch goes nicely without the tree at 9 or 10a. The climbing is fairly sustained throughout especially pitch 1 & 2. 6th pitch also gets a little thin. The final arĂȘte has amazing position but isn't harder than 5.8.
BLong - Oct 29, 2010 6:04 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2010
Great ClimbFun, long, bolted face climb up the Ginger Butress at Red Rocks. The belay stations were at weird locations (several hanging belays that could have easily been on ledges 15' higher or lower). Great crimpy moves -- definitely recommended!
Dow Williams - Mar 10, 2009 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2009
Unimpeachable GropingI felt like "groping" my partner to warm my fingers this was so damn cold towards the end ("not that there is anything wrong with that"). Look for a high in Vegas of 65f minimum, that ought to put this route ok when the sun leaves around noon in Feb-early March. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches, I think more than 16 draws are needed unless you are going to pass a few. The roof was fun, but relatively easy compared to the face climbing. My partner did stop short twice after that due to the confusion of the rap line with the stations, but it all works...just makes for a long 5th and 7th pitch. Actually made that 7th pitch 200' on the money. I recommend scrambling down to the notch for your first rappel off the backside. We rapped from the summit, but got our ropes stuck on loose blocks at an intermediary ledge. I have rapped the notch before with no worries. Good climb, definitely not any harder than 10b even though one guide book suggests 10d. Bolts spaced close together compared to other long sport routes I have been on. With Peter from Oakland