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Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Object Title: Unnamed

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.10

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: hkutuk

Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2006 / Nov 2, 2006

Object ID: 240539

Hits: 3150 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

This route is on the The Practice Cliffs and they are located before the Zion Lodge as you travel up canyon. Ask the shuttle bus driver to stop before you get to the Zion Lodge. There is a distinct trail on the right side of the road that will take you to the cliffs. If you go to the lodge you have to walk back (down canyon). These cliffs are in the shade in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. The routes are relatively short but be aware there not anchors on top of each route and there is plenty of loose rock on the top of the cliff. You can walk off the north end of the cliffs. This unnamed corner crack is located to the left of Casual Sex, so walk around the corner to your left again following the trail.

Route Description

 
Unnamed
Strenuous route.
 
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Happy to be on top.
This route is on the wide side and doesn't seem to see much traffic as it was quite sandy :). Start the left facing corner with thin hands but look for the pods to get a rest and to be able to place larger pieces. It is quite strenous going with mainly red and yellow camalots. The crux is the last 10 feet. You will get to a little sloping ledge for your feet where the crack widens up significantly. You can place a #5 camalot right below your waist but no more pro above you unless you have bigger cams or Bigbros. I tried to get a knee in the crack but it was too small and too painful with shorts. Finally had to lieback the wideness and walk the feet on the face until the very top of the crack where #3 camalot fits nicely. There are no anchors on the top, so walk up to the tree above you not the one on your right and build an anchor. There is lots of loose stuff up there be careful.

Essential Gear

Three #1 and #2 camalots, one each #4 and #5 camalots. Single 60m is plenty. Webbing if you don't want to get the sap from the juniper on your rope. Walk off to left end of the cliffs following the trail and hopping boulder. Don't kick rocks down the cliffs.

Images

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