Unnamed

Approach

I was intrigued by the statement in the book Zion Rock "this is the best hand crack in the canyon" and wanted to climb it. But neither book Zion Rock nor Utah Rock Climbing do not provide pictures or topos for this route. I asked a local climber about its location and got a vague answer that it was too complicated to find the route. Hmmm, why this secrecy. Anyway it is not that complicated to find it. Get off the shuttle at the Big Bend stop and start walking up canyon and keep an eye on the walls on your right (keep an eye on the shuttles too so you won't get run over by one). After couple hundred yards you should see a huge flake (almost half the size of the wall) on your rigt that is detached from the walls above you. From the flake look for the right facing corner which is another 100 feet or so to the left of it. Now that you located the route you have to basically hike to it from the road. There are faint paths possibly game trails that cris cross the hill side. Go up the best looking trail and under the occasional bush until the large boulder rock right underneath the route. Scramble up the large boulder and you will be standing at the start of the route. Apparently this route is not Cynthia's Handjob and I don't know know what it is called, sorry.

Route Description

I haven't climbed the route (unfortunately) but looking at it it starts with nice hand jams (yellow camalot) and with good feet on the left. Then it becomes thin hands and possibly red camalots with a couple of wider pods for rests. Jam your way to the anchors on the top of the route. There were also slings on the anchors.

Essential Gear

I haven't climbed the route but I would estimate mainly red camalots 4 or 5 and 2 or 3 yellow camalots. One 60m rope should be sufficient. None of this has been verified, go have fun and let me know. Looks like a real fun route!

Images

View Unnamed Image Gallery - 3 Images