UnU, 5.10, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
InI (5.10) is typical of many of the Tunnel Wall routes at Zion National Park in that it offers up one really stunning pitch for the grade. Bryan Bird and Jared Greer established InI in 2000. A good route to combine it with is UnU (5.10), established three years later by Bryan. They line up side by side just beyond (east) the second tunnel window. Both are located just to the right (west) of one of the better routes on the entire wall, Lap Dance, 5.11.
    
Although Bryan has UnU listed at 5.10 in his guidebook, his actual topo, included in same, reflects all the pitches going at 5.9. The first pitch of UnU is an obvious hand to off-width crack (5.9) that runs up a face on the left side of the buttress separating UnU from InI (photo). I took a C4 #5 and #6 and used them on most of the pitches. At the top of this crack, scramble up towards some trees to your right for the belay. The second pitch (perhaps the best pitch of the route) runs up the obvious left facing corner above on solid rock. Once at the top of the corner, set up a belay below the next left facing corner above. The third pitch is one of the more interesting pitches at Tunnel Wall. Climb up the corner to what Bryan refers to as the “cave”. Stem and/or chimney up the short slot tunnel. Although dramatic moves, this wide section is more than reasonable for the grade and protects better than it looks. Pull out of the slot via large blocks above. The final pitch follows a hand crack that widens to almost off-width to the right of the ledge above the “cave”. It is best to step down to start this pitch. One single rope rap from the top of this pitch lands you below the ledge you just belayed on, the opposite side you climbed, to a 180’ fixed rap on the west wall followed by one more single rope rap to the ground.

Take the Zion Park road up towards the tunnel. Park on the right side at a shaded pullout on the 2nd to last switchback (vehicle facing east) or on the side of the un-shaded switchback itself Walk east up to the switchback retaining wall and pick up a trail on the south end of that wall. Follow the trail across a wash and stay with it as it circumvents east around the tunnel wall above about 50yds below it. Just beyond the second tunnel window is a significant buttress (Lap Dance). To the right of this buttress lies an impressive hour glass shaped chimney system (InI). Head up the slope via no specific trail to the base of the lower wall. UnU starts on the east facing wall just to the left of where InI starts.

Route Description

500’+/-, 4 Pitches, 5.10 (5.9)

1st Pitch- 50m- 5.9/ The actual climbing distance of the first pitch is no more than 100’, but if you drag the rope to the base of the next pitch, you will come closer to a full rope length. Start up the obvious crack on the east face of the large left facing corner. A combination of fists, off-width moves and hands glide you up the wide sandy crack. I placed quite a bit of large gear on this pitch, several C4 #4’s, a #5 and a #6. Once at the top of the crack, bushwhack up right and belay at the trees.

2nd Pitch- 50m- 5.9/ You start out hands but go to fists and a bit of off width as the crack widens at the top. This is a good pitch on good rock. Place gear at will in the left facing corner. Once at the top, continue to the base of the next left facing corner with the pod (“cave”) above.

3rd Pitch- 20m- 5.9/ This is the most interesting and fun pitch on the route. Head up the corner until you can stem and/or chimney in the “cave” (more like a through slot). It protects better than it looks and you can jug out on huge blocks above to a medium sized ledge and belay with a C4 #4 in a floor crack.

4th Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Step down and right to get started in a crack up the right side from the ledge. Pull a bulge with a hand crack that yet again widens as you ascend it. We might have placed the C4 #6 cam on all four pitches. Continue up to a single bolt and tree belay/rappel.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Take a single rope rap back past the ledge on its west side to a fixed rappel on the west facing wall (InI’s side, but not InI’s fixed station). Then a double 60m rope rap down to a large bushy ledge. Come off the ropes and head down to a large tree. One more single rope rap to the ground.

Essential Gear

Double 60m Ropes. Single C4 #.5 to #6. Double C4 #1 to #3. We placed no wires. This is a shaded route. Half shoulder length slings, half draws to extend your gear. Helmets wise on Tunnel Wall.

External Links

• The Many Free Routes in Zion National Park
  
• Oscar’s Café, the only place for climbers to truly fill their appetite (free range chicken, beef and Hank’s Tanker) and meet one of the finer climbers and individuals I know on the face of the earth, Zach Lee, someone who has established many of his own local FA’s in the area.
  
• Zion National Park
  trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices/closures, weather conditions, camping permits, canyon water levels, etc.
  
• Best True Technical Clothing and Accessories in the Outdoor Industry, Hands Down....the Legit Climbers Gear at Real Prices
  
• Scarpa, has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value and actually stand by their warranties
  
• Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
  
• Great Outdoors Depot

Images

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