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Upper Breadloaves North, 5.8-5.12c
Mountain/Rock

Upper Breadloaves North, 5.8-5.12c

 
Upper Breadloaves North, 5.8-5.12c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.08837°N / 113.72924°W

Object Title: Upper Breadloaves North, 5.8-5.12c

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Aug 27, 2014 / Aug 27, 2014

Object ID: 911023

Hits: 710 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Interceptor, 5.11a
Interceptor, 5.11a

Interceptor (5.11a) is one of the more unique trad climbs in the entire City of Rocks area.  Although it is a bit short and shares the same start with Tide Country, the contrast between it and other routes at the City is sharp. There are few overhanging hand sized cracks that can garner a 5.11 rating, but the reachy crux after the traverse out of Tide warrants it. After that it is all gravy, pulling an overhanging hand/fist crack to the top. Hard to beat this much fun anywhere. Of course Tide Country (5.10a) is every bit worth doing as well. The only fixed anchor is directly above Interceptor. Lost Pioneers (5.10a) is not near the route as these two are in my opinion. I never felt the 5.10 climbing. It is definitely a soft 5.10a but worth doing if in the area. 

I rarely spend any time at Breadloaves due to the dogs, boom boxes, crying babies and just general overcrowding of the SLC gym crowd. But in August on a weekday, you can rest assured of having this north end to yourselves not to mention that the grades at this end are a good detractor. Turn left off the main road like you are going for the main Breadloaves parking area and immediately pull out on the left. Scramble left, then back right, up a few boulders to a very cool belay spot down and left from Interceptor and Tide. To climb these routes, you need to do an easy chimney traverse to get to their base, leaving your belayer behind. It is best to park at the water pump area for Lost Pioneers.

Route Description(s)

NORTH FACE
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Lost Pioneers- 5.10a**/
  • This route is better than it looks but still nothing great and soft for the grade. Pull several bulges up a corner with a ring lock thrown in with the mostly hand crack here and there. Worth doing if already on Interceptor and Tide Country. Dow

  • Route 66- 5.8*/

  • Stolen Thunder- 5.12c/

  • Interceptor- 5.11a***/
  • One of the more unique trad climbs in the entire City of Rocks area. Although it is a bit short and shares the same start with Tide Country, the contrast between it and other routes at the City is sharp. There are few overhanging hand sized cracks that can garner a 5.11 rating, but the reachy crux after the traverse left left (double sling your last pro) out of Tide warrants it. Metolious #0 or #00 protects the move precariously for a shorter person (trying to protect falling back into the corner). If you are taller, you can almost start the overhanging portion with hands. After that it is all gravy, pulling an overhanging hand crack to the top tossing your feet back to the wall for leverage. Dyno or reach (height dependent) for the first hanging hand jam. Jam your way up until it turns to fists and continue to the top to a fixed rap with fist jams. Dow

  • Tide Country- 5.10a**/
  • Not as good as its brethren to the left (Interceptor), but a worthy 5.10 trad lead. Stay with the corner pulling the roof with steep hands into the chimney. Traverse up and left to reach the rap above Interceptor. Dow

    Descent

    The rap on top of Interceptor will work for all the routes besides 66 and Lost Pioneers. Lost Pioneers has its own rap. You can descend to the right of Interceptor if you want to walk off on 5th class.

    Essential Gear

    The protection is sort of critical on Interceptor to avoid swinging and hitting the corner on lead. It takes a micro nut or cam, off set would be ideal as I recall. You need extension on the last piece placed in the corner as well. Then C4# 2’s and 3’s for the overhang crack. Standard rock is fine for the other routes. 60m single is adequate for this wall.

    Images

    Interceptor and Tide CountryNorth Upper BreadloavesUpper Breadloaves NorthInterceptor, 5.11aRapping InterceptorInterceptor, 5.11a