Upper Exum Ridge Climber's Log
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| dfrancom | Fun ![]() | |
| Nice ridge and always a classic | ||
| Posted Oct 18, 2008 12:10 pm | ||
| dpsiebert | Upper Exum ![]() Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2005 | |
| Awesome route, awesome views. | ||
| Posted Aug 30, 2008 1:32 pm | ||
| Bill Kish | Upper Exum ![]() Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008 | |
| A fine route on a proud mountain. The threat of storms kept us moving; round trip time was 13 hours from Lupine Meadows. | ||
| Posted Aug 11, 2008 11:55 am | ||
| DrewB | Fine.. ![]() Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2004 | |
| ..rock and beautiful views. Decended in a complete white-out and took nearly 3 hours to get back to the lower saddle. We couldn't see 10 feet which makes route finding more than a little challenging. It snowed nearly 4" on the lower saddle that afternoon and it was still August. | ||
| Posted Jul 7, 2008 6:20 pm | ||
| wyomtman | Loved it! ![]() Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2003 | |
| Fun, easy going route. | ||
| Posted Dec 28, 2007 7:07 pm | ||
| Twills | Fun... ![]() | |
| ...and classic... Get's crowded, so opt for a weekday. | ||
| Posted Sep 24, 2007 1:42 pm | ||
| rasgoat | Classic! ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2007 | |
| Great route with alot of fun climbing and exposure! | ||
| Posted Jul 9, 2007 12:56 am | ||
| seth@LOKI | Going again! ![]() | |
| And read what spenceinboulder says below. Thanks! | ||
| Posted Jun 20, 2007 7:10 pm | ||
| Jim Carr | Teton Classic ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2005 | |
| What more needs to be said? | ||
| Posted Jun 15, 2007 4:04 pm | ||
| Sharon | One of my all-time faves ![]() Date Climbed: Sep 5, 1997 | |
| Missed V-pitch; did a more strenuous variation. Sense of history matched quality of rock. Amazing! I still talk about it. Partner: Steve Reynolds | ||
| Posted May 21, 2007 3:09 am | ||
| weeds19 | Wonderful route ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2004 | |
| Classic climb in every sense! The climbing would have been easy if many of the holds had not been covered in ice and snow. A great experience in alpine climbing. | ||
| Posted Feb 6, 2007 4:29 pm | ||
| Woodie Hopper | Upper Exum ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006 | |
| Exposure was fun; not very difficult. | ||
| Posted Jul 30, 2006 7:39 am | ||
| Antonio Genissimo | "Classic" ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006 | |
| John Walsh, Stew Patrignani, Lisa Jennings and I, had what amounts to a "Classic" ascent of the upper Exum route. We started at six am from the lower saddle. This brought us to the summit at 8 pm. I say "Classic", because like for many others, route finding was one of our significant obstacles. As we neared the top of the ridge we entered a dark slightly overhanging alcove with an 'improbable' looking exit. At this point, we retreated one pitch and moved to our right away from the ridgeline (which, we would later learn was the correct line). Overall, our climb went well and I felt that the above was the only significant error in route finding on the way up. However, the real fun begins on the descent. From the top one downscrambles to the "Catwalk" and the first 120' rappel. This leads to a second rappel of another 120' (roughly) to the upper end of what we thought was the 'right way' down. It wasn't until quite a bit of downscrambling and the approach of darkness that we were certain that the true descent lie to our right (to the west?) a couple of other gulllies. By and by, we got back to camp at 12 midnight, after 18 hours. Sadly, two other parties were still coming down behind us. In the morning the climbing ranger and one of the Exum guides said they we're watching our progress down the wrong gully. They said it was a "classic" mistake, but they were happy that everyone returned safely. | ||
| Posted Jul 24, 2006 6:04 pm | ||
| Mountain Jim | One of the best alpine routes ![]() Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1974 | |
| This route truly deserves it's classic status. | ||
| Posted Jul 1, 2006 11:34 pm | ||
| spenceinboulder | Super Classic Route ![]() Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1995 | |
| Despite the upper Exum Ridge being technically very easy, a lot of parties get intimidated by the exposure, over-protect the route, move too slowly, and get caught in PM rain showers. The route is a great exercise in balancing the desire to place pro with the desire to move fast, hance making it a great route to cut your teeth on for bigger alpine and rock challenges. | ||
| Posted May 9, 2006 12:33 am | ||
| trinityalpsman | Exum Ridge ![]() Date Climbed: Jul 26, 1972 | |
| I took the climbing classes, plunked down my money and was lucky to get Herb Swendlund for a guide. Only afterwards did I realize my climb was almost exactly 100 years after Langford and Stevenson first climbed The Grand. | ||
| Posted Feb 20, 2006 3:29 am | ||
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