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Valle de Literola

 
Valle de Literola

Page Type: Route

Location: Hte.Garonne/Huesca, France/Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.70260°N / 0.53660°E

Object Title: Valle de Literola

Route Type: Scramble + rock climbing

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: PD

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Rafa Bartolome

Created/Edited: Aug 16, 2004 / Jul 9, 2006

Object ID: 161840

Hits: 2409 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

From Benasque take the road to Hospital de Benasque. After the signal of Vallibierna and Baños de Benasque we cross the Puente de Literola (signal) and we leave the car in the little parking.
In summer take the bus in Benasque to Llanos of Hospital (every 30 minutes).

Route Description

Initial path it's the same of Perdiguero: the path begin in the left side of the road near the little river across the forest. After the forest we will appear in a plain. We continue towards the right of river gaining height for the hillside. It is necessary to give many attention to the cairns that indicate the way to us up to coming to a zone rightly on the small lake of Literola ("ibonet de Literola"). From this point there are two options:
-More direct, that it is necessary to avoid if there is snow for the great inclination that has, is to descend to the small lake and to continue for the channel that we have rightly face up to a hill near the top lake. Important: this way is complicated and even dangerous with snow (at the end of spring is posible the presence of holes and breaks under the snow).
-Another option is to follow for the right the marks to gain height for the path between the rocks up to a point in which we will descend a little bit to the same point over the channel of small lake.

From this point we leave the route of Perdiguero (left) and we continue in direction to the top lake of Literola ("Ibón Blanco de Literola") that on that we will have to border for the left side. With snow it is necessary to have a lot of care to evitate the entry in the frozen lake covered by the snow. Placed under the ridge of Literola that descends from the peak Perdiguero we will follow bordering up to finding the way of climb towards the evident col on the one that finishes the ridge; It is Literola's col that separates the ridge of Literola of the Crabioules's peaks (2980m, 4h 30 min).
Here it begin the rock climb. We are now in the most critical point of the climbing and it is very difficult to find the exact point in which one finds the most accesible chimney (generally the second one from the col, grade I+, vertical). The first chimney is in the habit of using for many persons but it is more complicated (II+ or III).
If we have followed the second chimney we must look with attention towards the right for the entry to the channel that comes from the first chimney. In left side you can climb the secondary Punta Mamy (II). It is easy to get lost but once found the channel the way wide and the climbed one is easy up to the summit (degree I) for broad channel. In the little summit of Cabrioules Oeste (Western, 5h) we discover the air and dangerous ridge that separates it of his twin summit of the Crabioules Este (Eastern). Many people do not continue up to another top and this is reasonable. The ridge never overcomes the degree I+ but the fall towards both sides is great and mortal. It possesses several very exposed step-crossing that cross with something of experience in climbing in rock with steps astride on the rocks. The rope can be useful for the people with less experience.

Important: never climb this mountain with rain, the wet rock is very dangerous. In winter is possible to reach with crampons and ice-axe the West peak but to try the East it's a complete madness.

Essential Gear

In winter and beggining of spring: crampons and ice-axe.
The rope is advisable all the year in the first chimney and the final ridge.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The channel of upper side of...The first and complicated...The inaccesible wall of...The ibon blanco de Literola...The last channel to summit of...