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Vallunaraju Climber's Log

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intothewildPerfect conditions - great views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2017


We camped at the moraine and left the tent at about 2AM. After 30-40 minutes of fairly easy rock scrambling, we reached the glacier. It was my first high altitude peak of the trip, so we ascended at a relatively slow pace. Reached the summit just in time for dawn - majestic views. The glacier is crevassed, but in good conditions. There were a couple of steeper "walls" (5-6 m tall), where you might consider rappelling down rather than down-climbing, but nothing extraordinary. The weather was perfect. No wind, no clouds, temperature just comfortable all the way.
Posted Jul 25, 2017 11:38 am

CissaSouth west route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2016


Perfect conditions, but quite boring slog.
Posted Jun 22, 2016 1:19 am

matt1260Lower summit solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2016
Completed this climb in perfect conditions. Trip report available here: https://goo.gl/CzqA9d

Awesome climb!
Posted Jun 18, 2016 4:38 pm

gloss151Vallunaraju - Normal Route - Smaller (right) Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2015


On a 2 week vacation from US tried to climb Vallunaraju and Pisco. This was my 2nd attempt of both, 1st attempt a few years back i got food poisoning and was too sick to climb. 1st attempt on Pisco we tried to do on a 1 week vacation, but didn't have enough acclimitization time.

Optimal weather conditions. Clear skies. Opposite conditions to what we had on pisco 3 days later. Hiked to moraine camp from base camp via eastern route as the more direct western route was closed. One of the other hikers passed out due to low sugar, but was fine after eating a little. Wasn't able to sleep due to limited acclimitization (5th day at higher altitudes). Left at 2:45 for summit, snow a little soft but not bad. Main summit was split in pieces and the approach was too dangerous, so we could only go up the slightly lower southern summit. Descent was quick but the snow conditions got really soft as we neared the bottom. Felt a bit sick back at moraine camp, but eating resolved the issue. We had fresh tracks the whole way and were the only group on the mountain. Great climb, spectacular views and photos. Recommend packing hand/toe warmers.
Posted Jan 13, 2016 11:46 am

geemanNormal route, started a little bit too early  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2015


We (guide+myself) started the climb from moraine camp at 2:45, made the top at 5:20. Due to the wind and cold we had to start our descent before sunrise, which was a bit disappointing. We were back at the camp around 7:30. The positive side was solid snow throughout the ascent/descent. Two snow bridges, one quite narrow.
Posted Aug 9, 2015 5:52 pm

teddycricket83ski descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2013


carried some junky skis to the top that I rented in Huaraz and had a fun and quick ski back down!
Posted Aug 9, 2015 2:59 am

SarahThompsonNormal Route to acclimate  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2015


This was my first climb in the Cordillera Blanca and it did not disappoint. Day 1: Hang @ 14K base camp (near taxi dropoff point). Day 2: Carry to 16K morraine camp. Day 3: Move to morrain camp. Day 4: Summit and back to Huaraz. The short section from the col to the summit was a bit more serious and exposed than we'd expected, but not very difficult. Bagged the lower summit too which was well worth it for the views of the main summit.
Posted Jul 27, 2015 8:46 pm

FletchAcclimitixation Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2013


It was a bit more tan the usual acclimitization hike, but it sure was pretty. Very cool intro to the Cordillera Blanca.
Posted Jul 18, 2013 7:15 pm

pokiebeautiful climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2012
One of the nicer climbs. Final summit crest and crevasses near top are amazing. Great photo ops! technically trivial and soloable.
Posted Dec 19, 2012 6:13 pm

ljbaileyfirst attempt  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 26, 2010


Wow! what a sweet day for climbing. the glacier was rock solid from the ascent to most of the way down. Sweet views! what a good one to teethe on!
Posted Nov 16, 2012 10:47 pm

AlbertoRampiniStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2007


Nice route!
Posted Aug 30, 2012 5:13 pm

CalNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2012


Fun looking down on the lights of Huaraz from such great heights.
Posted Jul 14, 2012 2:06 pm

markthejockSW slopes
Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2005


My first peak in the Cordillera Blanca, although didn't make it to the true summit due to unfavourable conditions. Did make it to the slightly lower summit though.
Posted Feb 20, 2012 5:09 am

andretSW Slopes (normal route)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2011


Went first for the N rige, got turned around by sugar snow. Summited via normal route the next morning. :)

Easy climbing, terrific views!
Posted Aug 13, 2011 7:20 pm

boisedocgood views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011


very good conditions on the glacier right now. Great views of prominent Blanca summits from Huantsan to Huascaran. The trail from basecamp up to the glacier was really steep and the crux of the whole thing.
Posted Aug 5, 2011 12:39 pm

Silvia MazzaniAn unforgettable ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2007

Silvia Mazzani

Why? Because of getting to the top together with Zero, a peruvian Siberian Husky I met at Base Camp...It was a very exciting and touching encounter, because a lot of years ago i'd climbed several mountains with my two huskies...
Posted Jul 9, 2011 4:51 pm

rggMy first climb in the Cordillera Blanca  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2011


I decided to camp high near one of the lakes south of the mountain, close to the edge of the glacier. Nobody else was around, but as I started my summit attempt the next morning, gaining the glacier from the saddle to the south, it didnĀ“t take long before the old trail I was following joined the normal route.
While I climbed, I saw three other groups coming down, two of which guided. A busy peak today! I must say that I was glad for the trail, because without it, I could have spent a lot of time finding a way around the crevasses - or even might have fallen into one!
Posted Jun 20, 2011 8:17 pm

7summitsNice climb, great views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010


We camped higher than regular BC, on a rock next to the glacier. Easy access in 5 minutes, then 3.5hrs to the top. Great weather, great views.
Many crevasses, but good bridges and some small jumps required. Not sure if it would be safe after a hot day though so get down quick.
Posted Aug 21, 2010 3:15 pm

iechegarRoute Climbed: Normal : November 11-12 2009  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2009


First summit involving glacier traveling for me! Nice and "easy" introduction for a hiker who wants to transition to mountaineering. Nice views of Ranrapalca and Ocshapalca. Completely doable when most other peaks are off season. An option is to do an ice climbing course at the nearby glacier before going for the summit as part of acclimatization
Posted Jan 4, 2010 5:59 pm

bledlnormal route  Sucess!


Nice, easy climb. Reached the summit with Timm Fischer and descended fast to have some Pasta at BC. My first climb in the Cordillera Blanca.
Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:18 pm

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