Vallunaraju Climber's Log
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|mpcohen||East Face : June, 1975 |
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1975
|In June, 1975, Rod Brooks and I did the East Face of Vallunaraju, and came down the North ridge. |
We started well after dawn, and reached the top at dark (OK, so we're not very fast), dug a snow cave for the night, and walked down in glorious sunshine the next morning. Since it took a day to walk up to our camp (at the lake, I think), it was a three-day trip in all.
It was a fun climb, mixed snow and rock. We started directly below the notch between the 2 summits, and just zig-zagged our way up following snow benches when we could, and climbing rock between them when we had to. The final pitch was a 50-foot couloir of snow and snow-covered rock that ends up at the notch. We were roped the whole way up, since it's pretty exposed, and I remember putting in some protection on a few pitches, but it was mostly a Class 4 climb.
I'm pretty sure that this was the first ascent of this side of Vallunaraju.
This is a most enjoyable mountain no matter which way you go up, the views are terrific, and it's a great training climb once you've acclimated to Huaraz. Enjoy it!
|Posted Oct 18, 2007 2:17 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Route Climbed: Normal Route. |
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2006
|Started at midnight from Laguna Llaca. Easy climb on a compacted glacier with few deep snow-covered crevasses.|
Great weather and views of the other mountains. We got to the corniced summit 5,680 m (18,650 ft) by noon sooooooo happy of being up there.
A few pictures of us: Cristian Rivera (Chikidracula) and I with the sponsor's flags on the summit and we headed down safely.
|Posted Sep 20, 2007 10:23 pm|
|I reached the summit on a beautiful and sunny day and I was the only person climbing valluna that day. From the col between the two peaks I skied down to the end of the glacier.|
Skiing in the Cordillera Blanca means a lot of cariing work (trabajo de burros) but also a beatiful experience!
|Posted Jan 17, 2007 11:35 am|
|kabernicola||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2006
|After a cloudy afternoon with some snowfall, it get cleared by the evening. Five hours from morraine camp and one hour and a half for getting down. Perfectly clear on the top. I did it with my wife and my very good partner Tobias.|
|Posted Aug 17, 2006 10:42 pm|
|MichaelJ||Normal route |
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2004
|Waist deep snow made trailbreaking a chore but great weather and an awesome view were worth the effort.|
|Posted Mar 27, 2006 11:14 pm|
|climberben||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 1 July 2002|
|An awesome day trip from Huaraz! The views from the summit were spectacular!|
|Posted Dec 26, 2005 5:11 am|
|jstanley||Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: 18 July 1973|
|Two other climbers from the US whom I met in Peru joined me in climbing this peak. We camped below and then hiked up to the glacier, where we put on our crampons just before daybreak. We made the climb in reasonably good weather and returned to our camp before dark. We were well acclimitized and it was not a difficult climb.|
|Posted Apr 8, 2004 12:11 pm|
|Nyle Walton||Route Climbed: Normal from Huaraz Date Climbed: Late June, 1971|
|In two days, I climbed Vallunaraju from Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas to its top, camping at about 15,000 feet. My companion's name I have forgotten. He was six feet six inches tall and from Alaska. Locally he was known as "Senor Dos Metros." |
This was a warm-up mountain for Huascaran where I subsequently went about a week later. Failing to reach Huascaran's summit because of equipment failure and lack of resolve, I must consider Vallunaraju my major mountaineering accomplishment in the Cordillera Blanca. I was thirty-eight years old at that time. After Huascaran, I decided that that any mountain above 15,000 feet was more pain than gain. Two months later, I returned to the States and wrote my Ph.D. dissertation on the Callejon de Huaylas. This proved to be a far more significant achievement. I haven't climbed anything very significant ever since.
|Posted Nov 14, 2003 10:43 am|
|e_wire||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 2003|
|Climbed the very easy normal route to acclimatize to the altitude. Unfortunalty, didn't reach the summit because my partner was very sick! That's life!|
|Posted Jul 25, 2003 9:53 am|
|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: July 13, 2003|
|Climbed solo to the col between the two summits and then roped up with two Americans I met at the refuge (Kip and Nate) to tackle the severely corniced ridge to the summit. We stopped about 5m below the summit since the cornice was just too scary. The climb took me about 5.5 hours from the refuge to the summit, 2.5 hours to descend. Very nice climb and very interesting glacier (lots of big seracs and crevasses near the route).|
|Posted Jul 13, 2003 4:13 pm|
|Peppeak||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 28-29 August 2002|
|A no problem mountain with exceptional views of Huascaran and Tocllaraju. For me a nice way of getting used to walking with crampons (first timer)|
|Posted Oct 29, 2002 2:01 am|
|BicRungee||Route Climbed: Normal (south ridge) Date Climbed: June, 2002|
|Summited with Micah Lambeth after having already climbed Urus Este & Ishinca. Off-route on rock slabs just below the glacier, but were able to get on the glacier and rejoin normal route. The glacier portion of the route was very moderate and nice, with an exposed section on top of the ridge and a couple relatively steep, maybe 40 degrees, and exposed stretches just right of the north summit ridge. Summit schrund just barely evident. Lower part of the trail was a pain to descend since wet and slick by that time of day - frozen mud during the night was fine.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2002 3:09 pm|
|UlrichPrinz||Route Climbed: The normal route Date Climbed: 4 August 2001|
|This is just a 'walk' over grass, then glacier.|
Nothing spectacular, but nicer than other
acclimatisation peaks there.
|Posted Oct 25, 2001 2:10 pm|
|Nyle Walton||Re: Route Climbed: The normal route Date Climbed: 4 August 2001|
|You climbed Vallunaju thirty years after I made it in 1971. Coincidentally you have the same name as my primary physician, Dr. Ulrich Prinz, here in Falls Church, Virginia. He is a very good doctor who has little interest in climbing mountains.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2009 9:40 am|