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Vesper Peak Climber's Log

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RAdamsStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1980


Have been up several times. Hauled skis up most of the way once, but there was too much debris on top of the snow to make it worthwhile below Headlee Pass. Great glissade once down chute to Frozen over Lake Elan.
Posted Nov 29, 2009 12:43 am

Darren9North Face bailed  Sucess!


Attempted North Face but rain changed our minds...climbed standard route instead, and still it was a good day. Love the Cascades.
Posted Nov 7, 2009 2:16 am

project360Perfect Climb for Everyone  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007


Love this peak. So close but appears far away...
Posted Oct 14, 2009 11:33 pm

DoehleStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2009


Nice, if cold, day out. Good views from the summit. Valleys had some of the best color I've ever seen.
Posted Oct 14, 2009 12:35 pm

geoseanHeadlee Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2008


Lots of brush on the approach, very wet on a late summer morning. Make sure you take to the ridge right at the outlet stream (I kept going to the lake, then ascended to the summit, this involves a lot of unnecessary steep slab climbing).
Posted Oct 7, 2009 12:45 pm

ericwillhiteGood climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2004


Had to leave my dog well below the pass, too much steep snow.
Posted Oct 7, 2009 2:01 am

WinterNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009
Spent a beautiful day on the North Face of Vesper Peak last weekend. Brief TR and photos can be found here: http://chriswinter.blogspot.com/2009/07/vesper-peak-north-face.html.

The lower buttresses were the crux. We ended up climbing a mossy mid-5th class right facing corner that protected fairly well and actually had ok rock. Wouldn't have been viable if it was wet, as it probably is much of the year. The rest was fun simulclimbing to the summit.
Posted Jul 24, 2009 1:10 pm

RomaKBeautiful September Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2008


Spectacular views all around, especially with such clean air. Great view of everything from North Cascades (Baker, Shuksan, Pickets, Eldorado, Ptarmigan area) to Stuart range and the central crest (Daniel, Lemah, Chimney Rock). For those bored with class 2 walking, follow the east ridge crest (climber's right on the slope heading to the summit) for some exciting 3rd and 4th class scrambling above a 1000' drop to Copper glacier.
Posted Sep 30, 2008 4:49 am

lukicNorth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2008


Outrageously beautiful area with terrific weather and a great partner. Skipped descending the glacier because we didn't feel like carrying ice ax/crampons, but I'll be back another day for that.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 9:19 pm

jordansahlsRain rain go away! (standard route)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008


Not to much snow up to the pass, but lots after that. We had an amazing view of white from the summit. damn the rain!
Posted Aug 11, 2008 1:58 am

gimpilatorHike and a half  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006


That's a hike and a half. Some loose stuff coming up the pass. Very nice views from the summit. Nick found the log stashed in a pipe.
Posted Sep 13, 2006 6:34 pm

EastKingSunrise Mine/Headlee Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2006


Went with Megellan up this mountain. This was a great trip. The scramble to the summit was actually easier then the steep hike up the switchbacks to Headlee Pass. The views was UNBELIEVABLE!!
Posted Sep 2, 2006 8:30 pm

renRoute Climbed: Headlee Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005


A bag of Sperry was included.
Posted Feb 15, 2006 3:44 am

Corey BiglerRoute Climbed: From the Sunrise Mine Trail. Date Climbed: September 25, 2005  Sucess!

Corey Bigler

Great visibility today. Scramble over rock was steep but fairly easy to the summit.
Posted Sep 26, 2005 2:43 pm

diceyRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: May 2005  Sucess!
via headlee pass. found a snowboard!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:17 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: Full North Face from the glacier Date Climbed: July 23, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with Keith G. and had an adventure on this fun but not to be underestimated peak. We started hiking with no visibility and it was quite depressing, but things changed once we reached Headlee Pass. At the notch between Vesper and Sperry we looked at the ledge but it had some snow on it so we dropped onto the glacier. We picked the best looking gully but a team ahead of us got stuck one pitch higher. We gave them our second rope so they could bail to where we were. From there we took over and started looking for an exit to the heather benches and things started getting really hairy as there was much moss/heather and wet rock with little pro, after some creative moves including rappel/pendulum over blank rock into adjacent gully and dry tooling we made it to the heather benches with great jubilation as it had taken us 4 pitches to get here. The slab followed by the 2 pitch dihedral felt so good after the misery of the lower 4 pitches. Shortly enjoyed the sun set over a great scenery, but we still had to hike out but our sense of achievement carried us out to some Jack Johnson music, celebratory drinks and much needed food at the car into late midnight...
Posted Jul 27, 2005 2:18 am

Andy DeweyRoute Climbed: Headlee Pass Date Climbed: May 17, 2005  Sucess!

Andy Dewey

Reached the top in very poor weather conditions; snow, rain, hail, and very thick clouds with about 100' visibility. Heavy snow from Vesper Creek and higher. The chute up to Headlee was also all snow. Still had fun!
Posted Jun 7, 2005 2:45 am

ilukaRoute Climbed: Northeast Slope Via Headless Pass Date Climbed: August 29, 2004  Sucess!


Great views from an easy to reach summit
Posted May 25, 2005 12:10 pm

danman3156Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 12 2004  Sucess!


A classic all around mountaineering adventure. The ledge is exposed, not for the faint hearted. The climb is very straight foward but a good fun beginner technical route.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 12:51 pm

leftfieldRoute Climbed: Headlee Pass/Sperry Peak Date Climbed: September 21, 2003  Sucess!


My friend Kate and i finally got decent weather (after two other attempts) and made the best of it by throwing in Sperry Peak as well. No snow anywhere and those great "superslabs" to run for the summit of Vesper. A few folks scattered about the Elan Lake basin enjoying late season sunshine.
Posted Sep 23, 2003 10:49 pm

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