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Via delle Mamme - West Face

 
Via delle Mamme - West Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Patagonia, Chile, South America

Lat/Lon: 50.9995°S / 73.0935°W

Object Title: Via delle Mamme - West Face

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)

Difficulty: ED sup. UIAA VII/A3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: May 6, 2011 / Apr 8, 2014

Object ID: 713803

Hits: 1961 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview

Via delle Mamme - Central Tower of Paine



Torres del Paine rise towards the sky like three perfect granite's arrows, drawing irresistibly the eyes of every mountaineer. They are located in southern Chilean Patagonia (Chile’s Magallanes Region, Ultima Esperanza Province, Torres del Paine Community), between Cordillera de Los Andes and Patagonian steppes.
The towers are rising up from Magellanic forests with impressive vertical cliffs. From the "Mirador", a panoramic point of view near the Base Camp, it's possible to take the most impressive view over Torres del Paine stunning East walls, quite famous all over the world in reason of their outstanding steepness and the beauty of the surrounding landscape, shaped by the action of the ancient glaciers, renowned as well as the inclement weather conditions which distinguish the area.
The majestic and the highest one is the incredible Torre Central, situated in the middle; while its famous East wall is quite visible getting to the Mirador by an easy walk, the West face, another impressive 800 meters high wall rising on the opposite side, is hidden inside a secluded and wild basin surrounded by a circle of mighty peaks. This wall is cut by two obvious cracks systems. In 1992 an italian team climbed in first ascent the right cracks-system, opening the route named Via delle Mamme, a challenging direct line on good rock, following mainly steep and often overhanging cracks.

Torre Central del Paine seen from the MiradorTorre Central del Paine seen from the Mirador - Photo Cingolo

History

First ascent of "Via delle Mamme": Carlo Barbolini C.A.A.I. - Bruno De Donà A.G.A.I. - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini C.A.A.I.- Mario Vighetti ("Torres del Paine '92" Italian Expedition) 15-16 november 1992


Toward Torres del Paine Base Camp
Towards the Base Camp

Upper Valley of Rio Ascensio
Upper Valley of Rio Ascensio

Torre Central West Side
Torres del Paine from West

Getting There

ROAD APPROACH

The approach to the area is from Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile’s Region XII, a more than 100,000 inhabitants’s town, with an active airport (2,500 Km South of Santiago). A 200 Km paved road (Ruta CH-9) connects Punta Arenas with Puerto Natales, the last small town on the way to Paine Region. From Puerto Natales (about 20,000 inhabitants, hotels) drive along a 120 Km unsurfaced road, leading to Laguna Amarga Keeper Post (Park Gate).
From here follow a narrow 7 Km. car road (private, tourists’ cars are not allowed) to Estancia Paine (Lodge), from where the approach-trail to Chilean Camp is starting; follow it to Torres Base Camp, lying at the foot of Torres del Paine East faces (about 3-4 hours by walking).
An impressive view point - the famous “Mirador” - is easily reached following a short trail from Torres Base Camp.

Carrying the gear in Rio Ascensio Valley
Carrying the gear in Rio Ascensio Valley
Fortaleza
Fortaleza
Climbing the fixed ropes
On the fixed ropes during Via delle Mamme first ascent

Walking approach

WALKING APPROACH

From Laguna Amarga follow the track to Estancia Paine and then the trail to the Torres del Paine Base Camp (650 mt.), situated inside the beechs wood below Torres del Paine majestic East Faces. Continue up the Rio Ascensio Valley and then follow on the left the Ascensio Glacier's moraine.
A long snow-gully leads to the base of Central Tower West Face, situated inside a mighty circle of peaks, closed by Fortaleza and Escudo. Here the expedition put the advanced camp.

Dawn on Graue Wand approach path
View on Fortaleza and Escudo rising along Rio Ascensio Valley

Placing the camp below Torre Central del Paine
Placing the camp below Torre Central West face

Route Description

***Via delle Mamme

Summit altitude: m. 2460
ED+, VII, A3 (UIAA Scale)
Climbing length: 800 m.
Exposure: West
First ascent: Carlo Barbolini - Bruno De Donà - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini - Mario Vighetti 15-16 november 1992.

Torre Central West Face Routes
West Face Routes: 1 Wild Wild West - 2 Rosso di sera - 3 Via delle Mamme - Ph. Alberto Rampini 1992
Torre Central Via delle Mamme
Torre Central W Face Via delle Mamme: approaching the big roofs zone - Ph. Alberto Rampini 1992


The impressive wall is cut by two very obvious cracks' systems, situated in the left-hand side of West Face: "Via delle Mamme" follows the right one, while along the left crack rises "Rosso di Sera". The route climbs a vertical cracks' system linked by two pendulums. All the belays are equipped with one peg and one bolt, while along the pitches there are a few pegs in place. Necessary some pegs and all size friends.

"Via delle Mamme" second ascent was made in 1996 by Scott Lazar, Mike Pennings and Cameron Tague (USA), mostly free climbing.
A complete free ascent is still waiting for a corageous party, and it seems possible.

Endless cracks on Via delle Mamme
Endless cracks on Via delle Mamme

An exciting moment on Torre Central del Paine (1992)
An exciting moment near the summit
 

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, helmet, some pegs, all size friends, 15 quickdraws, ribbons.

Red Tape

Torre Central and the entire Cordillera del Paine is lying inside "Torres del Paine National Park", one of greatest park in the country, established in 1959 and declared an UNESCO WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE in 1978. Access in regulated and an entrance fee is due.

Meteo

CNN METEO CONDITIONS PUERTO NATALES
METEO TORRES DEL PAINE
METEO PATAGONIA

External Links

Some useful informations here:

Erratickrock Patagonia
Torres del Paine National Park
Chile Austral
Andeshandbook
Concierge Travel Guide

Guidebooks and maps

 
Torres del Paine map
 


"Patagonia Terra Magica per alpinisti e viaggiatori" Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin, Dall'Oglio Ed.

 
Patagonia Guidebook
 

Images