Via delle Mamme - West Face : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

An exciting moment on Torre Central del Paine (1992)

An exciting moment near the summit

Via delle Mamme - Central Tower of Paine

The West face of Torre Central del Paine West Face is a very impressive and secluded 800 meters high wall, situated in the opposite side of the famous East face and cut by two obvious cracks' systems. In 1992 an italian team climbed in first ascent the right cracks-system realizing Via delle Mamme, a direct route on good rock, mainly following steep and often overhanging cracks.

First ascent of the route: Carlo Barbolini C.A.A.I. - Bruno De Donà A.G.A.I. - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini C.A.A.I.- Mario Vighetti ("Torres del Paine '92" Italian Expedition) 15-16 november 1992.

Placing the camp below Torre Central del Paine

Placing the camp below Torre Central West face - ph. Alberto Rampini november 1992

Getting There

Torre Central West Face - ph. Alberto Rampini

ROAD APPROACH

The approach to the area is from Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile’s Region XII, a more than 100,000 inhabitants’s town, with an active airport (2,500 Km South of Santiago). A 200 Km paved road (Ruta CH-9) connects Punta Arenas with Puerto Natales, the last small town on the way to Paine Region. From Puerto Natales (about 20,000 inhabitants, hotels) drive along a 120 Km unsurfaced road, leading to Laguna Amarga Keeper Post (Park Gate).
From here follow a narrow 7 Km. car road (private, tourists’s cars not allowed) to Estancia Paine (Lodge), from where the approach-trail to Chilean Camp is starting; follow it to Torres Base Camp, lying at the foot of Torres del Paine East faces (about 3-4 hours by walking).
An impressive view point - the famous “Mirador” - is easily reached following a short trail from Torres Base Camp.

WALKING APPROACH

From Laguna Amarga follow the track to Estancia Paine and then the trail to the TORRES DEL PAINE BASE CAMP (650 mt.), situated inside the beech's wood below Torres del Paine majestic East Faces. Continue up the Rio Ascensio Valley and then follow on the left the Ascensio Glacier's moraine.
A long snow-gully leads to the base of Central Tower's West Face, situated inside a mighty circle of peaks, closed by Fortaleza and Escudo. Here the expedition put the advanced camp.

Fortaleza and Escudo seen from Rio Ascensio Valley

View on Fortaleza and Escudo while rising along Rio Ascensio Valley

Route Description

Torre Central West Face Via delle Mamme: approaching the big roofs zone - Ph. Alberto Rampini november 1992

***Via delle Mamme

Summit altitude: m. 1793
ED+, VII, A3 (UIAA Scale)
Climbing length: 800 m.
Exposure: West
First ascent: Carlo Barbolini - Bruno De Donà - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini - Mario Vighetti 15-16 november 1992.

The impressive wall is cut by two very obvious cracks' systems, situated in the left-hand side of West Face: "Via delle Mamme" follows the right one, while along the left crack rises "Rosso di Sera". The route climbs a vertical cracks' system linked by two pendulums. All belays are equipped with one peg and one bolt, while along the pitches there are a few pegs in place. Necessary some pegs and all size friends.

"Via delle Mamme" second ascent was made in 1996 by Scott Lazar, Mike Pennings and Cameron Tague (USA), mostly free climbing.
A complete free ascent is still waiting for a corageous party, and it seems possible.

Alberto, Carlo, Mario, Angelo and Bruno after the climb

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, helmet, some pegs, all size friends, 15 quickdraws, ribbons.

Red Tape

Torre Central and the entire Cordillera del Paine is lying inside "Torres del Paine National Park", one of greatest park in the country, established in 1959 and declared an UNESCO WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE in 1978. Access in regulated and an entrance fee is due.