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Via Dibona

 
Via Dibona

Page Type: Route

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.52099°N / 12.01650°E

Object Title: Via Dibona

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: UIAA V+

Number of Pitches: 11

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jun 18, 2016 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 974648

Hits: 627 

Page Score: 85.87%  - 21 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Fanis Group > Torre Grande di Falzarego > Via Dibona



Via Dibona


Torre Grande di Falzarego 2550 m is a tower of high quality dolomia belonging to Fanis group and situated in the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego together with some other peaks. Torre Grande di Falzarego and its minor sister Torre Piccola are amongst the most interesting ones, in reason of their beautiful slender shape, the exposition of the climbing routes and the quality of the rock. Torre Grande shows a grey and compact West face and a higher steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient military hospital.
On this wall it runs maybe the finest climb of Torre Grande, the route Dibona, a great climb on a sunny face.



Torre Grande di Falzarego Via Dibona topo


Getting There

Road access

- Road approach from Trento and Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. Once getting in Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. About 1 km. before reaching the pass park the car in the parking lot near Ristoro Strobel.

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Proceed as above.

Torre Piccola di Falzarego approach path
Torri di Falzarego approach path
Torre Grande di Falzarego summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes
Summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes
Gorges du Dades
Gorges du Dades

History

 
Angelo Dibona, one of the greatest Alpine Guide
Angelo Dibona
 
Alpine Guide Angelo Dibona on Dolomites
In action on the Dolomites

Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), the legendary mountaineer and mountain guide from Cortina d'Ampezzo, despite being born in the nineteenth century, continues to be a symbol for those who climb the mountains of the Dolomites and not only. He had been an absolutely unique protagonist in mountaineering in the first half of the '900 and one of the greatest climbers of all time. The routes climbed in first ascent by Angelo Dibona are found throughout the Alps, from the Dolomites to the French Alps. On the Dauphiné a wonderful sharp needle was named in his honour: it's Aiguille Dibona, which Angelo Dibona summited in the year 1913. He died in Cortina d'Ampezzo in the year 1956, at the age of 77 years. Since 2012 the main square in Cortina, where it's located a monument created by sculptor Murer in 1976, is called Piazza Angelo Dibona

Route Description

Via Dibona report - UIAA scale

Summit altitude: 2550 m
Difficulty: V+ max (UIAA scale)
Climbing length: 350 m
Equipment: pegs
Exposure: SE
First ascent: Angelo Dibona, Ignazio Dibona, G. De Stefani 3-9-1934
Starting point: Ristoro Strobel

A great outing on a highly satisfactory route, one the classic of the Dolomites, providing a magnificent climb up the SE wall, facing towards the route to Passo Falzarego. Pegs in place are enough, on the upper section these become less frequent.

Walking approach to South-East Face routes

From Ristoro Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path (red-white marks) rising in the wood to Boscato 2168, where it's located a level war-road (path n. 412). Turn to right (East), getting briefly to the ruins of the WWI ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising to the bottom of the face (30 min. from the parking). The start is located at the base of an obvious dihedral engraved by a crack at which base on the left there is a peg.


Steep grey wall on route Dibona, Torre Grande di Falzarego
Steep grey wall

Route Dibona, an airy climb
Airy climb




L1 - Climb the entire black crack and then continue overcoming the various grassy and rock steps, getting the summit of a pillar, where belay on a fixed peg, IV, III +, 40 m

L2 - Slanting left in the direction of a gully. Before reaching the gully climb the very vertical wall (2 spit of another route) and continue on a ramp that rises diagonally rightward, getting the stance on 2 fixed pegs, IV, III, 25 m.

L3 - Vertically above the stance climb a fine wall with good holds in the direction of a black dihedral. Follow it, then on easier ground on the right to the stance on 1 peg and 1 fixed peg, IV, III, 40 m

L4
- At this point the original route goes slanting right along a gully that leads to bypass an edge, beyond which straight on grassy and easier ground to the stance, III, 25 m. A popular variant follows instead the beautiful wide dihedral above the stance, leading directly to the stance at the end of the fifth pitch.


Torri di Falzarego
Torri di Falzarego
Via Dibona on Torre Grande di Falzarego
Via Dibona
Dibona, top of the difficult crack
Top of the famous chimney-crack


L5 - If you have chosen the original route now climb a slab on the left of the edge. After the first few meters steeper, up on easier grassy rock reaching the stance on 1 peg and 1 hole, IV, II, 35 m

L6 - Climb the beautiful carved slab above the stance at first rightward, then rturning to the left in the direction of a dry tree. Belay before reaching the tree on 1 peg and 1 hole, V, IV+, 30 m

L7 - Traverse left about 6 meters, reaching the base of a vertical crack leading slanting left on an edge. Beyond the edge belay inside a yellow niche on 1 bolt, V-, 15 m

L8 - Towards left to a black dihedral-crack. Climb it directly to get the base of the yellow overhangs that characterizes the last few meters before the summit. Belay on a jammed block, IV +, IV, 30 m

L9 - Challenging length. Climb the chimney-crack above formed by a yellow detached pinnacle, reaching the summit of the pinnacle, V, 35 m

Via Dibona, the top of the famous chimney
Top of the famous chimney

Downclimb on Torre Grande di Falzarego
Downclimb on Torre Grande di Falzarego



L10 - Climb the short but smooth little wall in front o the stance, then keep the left of a deep yellow crack and on easier ground reach the summit crest of the tower, V+ (or A0), V-, IV, III, 25 m.

L11 - Follow easy rocks in the direction of the summit, 40 m.

Descent: along the normal route. Get off to the north (in the direction of a groove along the Falzarego Summit that leads to the fork that divides Torre Grande from Cima Falzarego (I and II, present some cemented anchoring). From here go down to the left (downstream face - west) by following a trace of the path and a few cairns (steps II).
After reaching the notch base which divides the two towers still follow the path down to the right, however (cairns, the downstream face). From here you will be soon on the former military road (route 412) and then take the path to the path during the approach that if followed backwards to return to the car.

Essential Gear

Normal climbing gear: ropes 2x50, helmet, 10 quickdraws

Red Tape

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and requires the best care and respect.


Marmolada Northern glacier close-up seen from Falzarego WWI hospital
Marmolada Northern glacier seen from WWI hospital

Powerful Antelao emerging behind Cinque Torri
Antelao emerging behind Cinque Torri

Where to stay

- Col Gallina Hut is the nearest place to stay, otherwise there are some hotels and huts on Passo Falzarego and Passo Valparola

When to climb

Best season goes from the middle of June to the middle of September

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Torre Grande di Falzarego map
 


“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia




    Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000

    Images

    Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago Marmolada Northern glacier close-up seen from Falzarego WWI hospitalAlpine Guide Angelo Dibona on DolomitesTorre Piccola di Falzarego approach pathTorre Grande di Falzarego Via Dibona topoTofana di Rozes seen from Torre Grande di FalzaregoDibona, top of the difficult crack
    Torre Grande di Falzarego summit cairn and Tofana di RozesMarmolada North sideVia Dibona on Torre Grande di FalzaregoPowerful Antelao emerging behind Cinque TorriVia Dibona, Torre Grande di FalzaregoKing of Dolomites seen from Falzarego roadLagazuoi Piccolo and Lagazuoi Hut on the summit
    [ View Gallery - 15 More Images ]