Torre Grande di Falzarego, Via Dibona

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Fanis Group > Torre Grande di Falzarego > Via Dibona

Via Dibona

Torre Grande di Falzarego 2550 m is a tower of high quality dolomia belonging to Fanis group and situated in the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego together with some other peaks. Torre Grande di Falzarego and its minor sister Torre Piccola are amongst the most interesting ones, in reason of their beautiful slender shape, the exposition of the climbing routes and the quality of the rock. Torre Grande shows a grey and compact West face and a higher steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient military hospital. On this wall it runs maybe the finest climb of Torre Grande, the route Dibona, a great climb on a sunny face.

Getting There

Road access

- Road approach from Trento and Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo. Once getting in Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. About 1 km. before reaching the pass park the car in the parking lot near Ristoro Strobel.

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Proceed as above.

Torri di Falzarego approach path

Summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes

Gorges du Dades

History

Angelo Dibona

In action on the Dolomites

Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), the legendary mountaineer and mountain guide from Cortina d'Ampezzo, despite being born in the nineteenth century, continues to be a symbol for those who climb the mountains of the Dolomites and not only. He had been an absolutely unique protagonist in mountaineering in the first half of the '900 and one of the greatest climbers of all time. The routes climbed in first ascent by Angelo Dibona are found throughout the Alps, from the Dolomites to the French Alps. On the Dauphiné a wonderful sharp needle was named in his honour: it's Aiguille Dibona, which Angelo Dibona summited in the year 1913. He died in Cortina d'Ampezzo in the year 1956, at the age of 77 years. Since 2012 the main square in Cortina, where it's located a monument created by sculptor Murer in 1976, is called Piazza Angelo Dibona

Route Description

Via Dibona report - UIAA scale

Summit altitude: 2550 m
Difficulty: V+ max (UIAA scale)
Climbing length: 350 m
Equipment: pegs Exposure: SE
First ascent: Angelo Dibona, Ignazio Dibona, G. De Stefani 3-9-1934
Starting point: Ristoro Strobel

A great outing on a highly satisfactory route, one the classic of the Dolomites, providing a magnificent climb up the SE wall, facing towards the route to Passo Falzarego. Pegs in place are enough, on the upper section these become less frequent.

Walking approach to South-East Face routes From Ristoro Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path (red-white marks) rising in the wood to Boscato 2168, where it's located a level war-road (path n. 412). Turn to right (East), getting briefly to the ruins of the WWI ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising to the bottom of the face (30 min. from the parking). The start is located at the base of an obvious dihedral engraved by a crack at which base on the left there is a peg.

L1 - Climb the entire black crack and then continue overcoming the various grassy and rock steps, getting the summit of a pillar, where belay on a fixed peg, IV, III +, 40 m

L2 - Slanting left in the direction of a gully. Before reaching the gully climb the very vertical wall (2 spit of another route) and continue on a ramp that rises diagonally rightward, getting the stance on 2 fixed pegs, IV, III, 25 m.

L3 - Vertically above the stance climb a fine wall with good holds in the direction of a black dihedral. Follow it, then on easier ground on the right to the stance on 1 peg and 1 fixed peg, IV, III, 40 m L4 - At this point the original route goes slanting right along a gully that leads to bypass an edge, beyond which straight on grassy and easier ground to the stance, III, 25 m. A popular variant follows instead the beautiful wide dihedral above the stance, leading directly to the stance at the end of the fifth pitch.

Torri di Falzarego

Via Dibona

Top of the famous chimney-crack

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000