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Via Ferrata "C.A.I. di Portogruaro"

 
Via Ferrata "C.A.I. di Portogruaro"

Page Type: Route

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.62492°N / 12.72217°E

Object Title: Via Ferrata "C.A.I. di Portogruaro"

Route Type: Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: medium/hard via ferrata

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: ganesh70

Created/Edited: Apr 24, 2007 / Jul 19, 2007

Object ID: 287955

Hits: 2249 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

This route for the summit of Monte Cjadenis ( 2459 m ) was a warpath of the first world war built by the " alpini " ( italian army mountain reparts ) that has been re-newed by the climbers group C.A.I. di Portogruaro several years ago. It can be climbed either from east or from south west, but the first option is by far the best.
The difficulty is never high ( max UIAA II ) but can be quite exposed in some parts and very dangerous in case of falling rocks moved by climbers ahead. The iron ropes are in good condition and often checked ( I think every year in spring ). The views are fantastic since the beginning of the warpath, so my advice is to go slowly and enjoy the climb but the panorama as well. Time required: 5 hours

Route Description

 
View from the east ridge of Monte Cjadenis
Eastern ridge

Once arrived in the village of Cima sappada take the narrow road to the green Val Sesis ( indications for Val Sesis - Rifugio Sorgenti del Piave ). After 7 km park your car near the indications for Passo Sesis - Rifugio Calvi. Walk back on the road for a couple of hundred meters and you'll find an indication on the left for the marked path n°173 for Passo dei Cacciatori. After the bush you'll reach the beautiful south faces of the Campanili delle Genziane. The path goes up through this fantastic towers in a dark and wild small canyon. Then turn left ( indication on a big rock ) and take the warpath for Passo dei Cacciatori ( 2213 m ). From here you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Avanza and Cjadenis groups and the spectacular Val Fleons. The path continues left to Falso Passo dei Cacciatori and left again to the starting point of the via ferrata ( 2230 m , 2 hours from the parking lot ).
After the first diedral this route follows the strainer between Monte Cjadenis and the third tower and then turns left to the eastern ridge. After the caves of the WWI there's another short diedral and in a few minutes you'll reach the summit of Monte Cjadenis ( 2459 m, 3 hours ).
The descent is fun and easier then the ascent, there are just a couple of tricky passages, but at this point you won't have more problems and in an hour or so you'll be sitting drinking a beer or a coffee in the Rifugio Calvi. From the Hut take the marked path and in half an hour or so you'll arrive in the parking lot ( 1815 m, 4 to 5 hours ).

Essential Gear

Complete via ferrata set

Images

On the strainerView from the east ridge of Monte Cjadenis