This route, first climbed in 1984 by Paul Bellodis and Mario Dibona, is one of the finest in its difficulty (mostly 6 to 6+). Thanks to a long approach, few climbers err their way in this area and subsequently the rock is in great shape.
From the parking place in Val Fanes hike up the old road up the valley (about 1.45 hours, until one sees the wall on the right. Cross the creek on a fairly new bridge and then hike up one of the many steep trals through forest and talus slopes, finally crossing a steep grass slope to the foot of the wall. One cannot miss the beginning of the route: the marked dihedral and imposing roof springs immediately to the eye.
In 8 rope lengths the 300 meter high wall is climbed and the climber will be more than rewarded for his/her efforts. The first 4 rope lengths are pleasure climbing at its finest and the following rope lengths are also very fine. The first crux occurs on the second pitch, where one has to avoid a series of small overhangs to the right into the vertical wall. The second crux is at the beginning of the final pitch. Out of a a small niche an overhang has to be overcome.
For the descent one follows a grassy band to the left until one reaches a pine tree from where one rappels 3 times back to the foot of the wall.
For Dolomite conditions, this route is well protected. A few Friends, nuts and 8 to 10 quickdraws not only improve the safety but also the climbing pleasure. With 2 60 meter ropes, the rappels will pose no problems.
"No one is completely useless — They can always serve as a bad example."