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Via Shaneh Kooh

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Mazandaran, Iran, Asia

Lat/Lon: 36.37200°N / 50.93880°E

Object Title: Via Shaneh Kooh

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: Class III

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: nader

Created/Edited: Jul 26, 2004 / Jul 26, 2004

Object ID: 161674

Hits: 1689 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


See "Getting There".

Route Description


Note:
1) The starting point for this route is the summit of Shaneh Kooh. Click for a link to the route for Shaneh Kooh.

2) The lowest saddle between Haft Khan #1 and South Khersan Peaks is 4400 m high. There is a higher saddle at 4450 m closer to South Khersan Peak. We overnight camped and entered the Haft Khan Glacier from there. That is the reason this saddle appears in the following discussion.

Distances:
3.9 km Shaneh Kooh to 4450 m saddle
1.1 km 4450 m saddle to Haft Khan #1


Route:
From the summit of Shaneh Kooh go to the saddle that separates it from the Takhte Soleyman Peak to the north and head down the boulder/scree covered western slopes of Shaneh Kooh toward the base of the Split Glacier. Stay away from the bottom of the valley and veer left (south) hiking across the bottom of the northwestern slopes of Alam Kooh until you reach the Haft Khan Glacier. Turn southeast and hike up the Haft Khan Glacier (no special equipment needed) toward the 4400 m saddle. We actually went to the 4450 m saddle mentioned above and encountered very steep and slippery scree just below the saddle (you can go to the 4400 m saddle. My pictures show that in late June you will encounter steep snow below this saddle).

At the 4400 m saddle, gain the top of the ridgeline and head northwest toward Haft Khan #1. Before reaching #1, you will encounter three other peaks/high points. Southeast to northwest, these have been termed: Haft Khan #6 (4440 m), Haft Khan #4 (4460 m) and Haft Khan #3 (4500 m). You might mistake any one of these for Haft Khan #1 but once you reach their summit, it becomes evident that you have to descend a little and continue on to the next one. From the 4400 m saddle until Haft Khan #4, you will only encounter large boulders that are fun to hop amongst. After #4, the terrain becomes more difficult requiring more intense Class III “hand and foot” climbing but you can do it without a rope.


Essential Gear


In summer, nothing more than camping equipment and good hiking boots.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.