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Vierge de l'Aroletta - Quendoz-Cardellina Route
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Vierge de l'Aroletta - Quendoz-Cardellina Route

 
Vierge de l\'Aroletta - Quendoz-Cardellina Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.88609°N / 7.38942°E

Object Title: Vierge de l'Aroletta - Quendoz-Cardellina Route

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA VI

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Dec 23, 2006 / Nov 14, 2014

Object ID: 254070

Hits: 8201 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview

- Vierge de l'Aroletta - Quendoz-Cardellina Route -

The route described here is a variant of the classic Cristiano-Carena route to the east spur of Vierge dell'Aroletta. The first ascent was by Renato Quendoz and Osvaldo Cardellina on August 6, 1967. The route description is by Osvaldo Cardellina.

Getting There

From Rifugio Crête Sèche (2.410m), follow a faint trail that crosses the namesake stream and go up to the base of the face. Alternatively, from Bivacco Franco Spataro (2.600m), angle down in the southwest direction.




Route Description

Start at the low point of the east spur, to the right of the Cristiano-Carena route. Climb a dihedral of about 30 meters (four pitons, one left in place and used as foothold). Ascend a 5-meters chimney (one Stubai piton in the crack) and angle right for over 35 meters Traverse for 30 meters to the right and up the very exposed and slightly overhanging face on small holds which are not always solid (V+, three pitons, the first and third were left). Keep traversing to the right on a short wall that leads to a ledge about one meter wide; from there, traverse left (V) toward a large boulder vertically attached to a pillar (one piton). Continue angling left for 20 meters up a slab with a crack that is difficult to protect with pins (VI). The slab leads to a 10 meters stretch between the Cristiano-Carena route and the Giglio-Manera variation to the same. It is possible to stay lower and continue with one of those two itineraries (317c and 317ca in Buscaini's guide). The total length is about 180 meters; very exposed climb that takes about 4 hours.

Descent

Rappel 40 meters from the ledge in the Gully to the North (two pitons in place); then downclimb (III) to the moraine at the base of the face (route Renato Quendoz - Ruggero Busa July 1967). If you continue with the Cristiano - Carena route or its variant, the descent of the north ridge is recommended.

Essential Gear

Standard rack. Two ropes for the rappel.

Images

La Vierge de l\'ArolettaLa Vierge de l\'ArolettaLa Vierge dell\'Aroletta vista dai pressi del rifugio Crête SècheRuz Village