On a fine Saturday evening in mid-May, we're camped at 6,840+ feet, at the toe of the cleaver (map) on the Boulder Ridge route. Mount Shuksan's summit is hidden by clouds.

It's a long approach, including 1,200 feet of glacier to here, but we're close to a good crevasse for practicing rescue techniques. (This is a mountaineering class.) In the morning we'll swing under the toe of the cleaver to ascend easy snow and rock up the cleaver's N side. As long as we don't veer too far right, we'll be safe from crevasses for about 2,000 feet.