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Looking up the approach gully... [ Sizes: Orig | Small | Thumb ]
Looking up the approach gully...
Looking up the approach gully that gains the base of the Northeast Arete. July 2005.


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F_RhoderickApproach Gully

Hasn't voted

Is this the base of the NE Arete, or upon reaching this rib is it a short scramble across a notch to the right?
Posted Jul 31, 2006 1:50 pm

b.Re: Approach Gully

Hasn't voted

From the top of this gully you are pretty much at the base of the arete. The first few hundred feet are 3rd class. Stay left, or you'll miss the good stuff on the easier terrain climbers right. The notch mentioned in the alpine guide was nothing without snow in it. There is a big gash couloir that parallels the NE Arete on the left and you have to climb across it. If it was snow filled you'd want to be careful, but by now I'll bet it's casual.
Posted Aug 2, 2006 9:16 pm

strabesRe: Approach Gully

Hasn't voted

to be clear: the fin in this pic is not the base of the Arete. if you climb this faux ridge you'll soon realize you went wrong. the ridge just to the right of this fin is the Arete. you need to cross the steep Dike Couloir (3 exposed steps on snow if not melted out) to the right of this fin to get to the Arete.
Posted Jul 9, 2007 6:36 pm

F_RhoderickRe: Approach Gully

Hasn't voted

Thanks, I got back there last year and scouted the approach. I was confused because what I thought was the base of the route was not what the pictured showed. Thanks for clarifying. Have you climbed the route?
Posted Jul 10, 2007 12:44 am

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Image Data

Submitted by b.
on Aug 2, 2005 12:57 pm

Image ID: 118033
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Lat/Lon: 45.38890°N / 110.485°W



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