This is a shot of Miguel leading on the nice hard ice that most climbing in the North Couloir (right) consists of. Meltwater from the brief (less than an hour) exposure to sun quickly turned hard and did not really seem to effect pro placement. As you can see there are some spots to place rock pro on the right edge of this couloir as well. Miguel did a good job lof exploiting these areas for belay anchors. Sept. 5th, 2005. More pics here

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