24-Nov-2005: Middle Spire, east side: "Tyro's Test Piece" (5.5) is the low-angle lieback crack; "Rain Song" is a runout 5.7 face to its left. The spire can be walked off at the top of the lieback crack, or you can climb the 5.8 chimney to the upper left up to where some anchor bolts can be found or belay from gear. Bolted 5.9 and 5.10b routes go up the block on the top right (we did not climb these).