Puig Tomir

Overview

Puig Tomir summit seen across the karst near its top

After Puig de Massanella, Puig Tomir is the most important mountaineering objective in Mallorca's Serra de Tramuntana. At little more than 1100m it does not compare with the mountains in the centre of the range but its ascent is arguably the most difficult undertaking on the island. While short when done from the closest trailhead it has everything that you'd rather expect from much higher mountains e.g. in the Dolomites or Julian Alps: tricky traverses of moving scree slopes, chimney climbs with fixed protecttion and a large karst plateau which can turn nasty in foggy conditions.

Puig Tomir is located in the north-east of Serra de Tramuntana, separated from the central part of the range by the valley in which you find Lluc Monastery. It is by far the highest mountain in this area, thus offering excellent views towards the north coast, the island's fertile plains in the west and the high summits of Serra de Tramuntana in the south. Capes Formentor and Alcudia draw most attention from its summit.

Like the remainder of the island, Puig Tomir is made up from brittle limestone. While its eastern side is one giant karrst slope, to the north and east massive walls drop to the valleys underneath. The karst while seemingly a giant flat plain, is deeply structured with giant ruts and crevices. Negotiating this plateau is far from simple, especially if you lose sight of the many cairns that lead you to the summit along the normal route.

In an ironic twist this normal route forces its way up one of the more difficult sections of the mountain. From the karst summit plateau a gully develops in the south-west, which soon widens into a scree couloir. Negotiating the scree - while not overly difficult - is rather dangerous during descent, thanks to the coonstantly moving rubble, which tends to drag you into near vertical gullies.

Last but not least: one of the approaches to Puig Tomir from Lluc Monastery leads through an area of bizzarre limestone formations, which were washed out of the bedrock bycenturies of heavy winter rains. A mythical area, which prolongs the otherwise short ascent into a day tour.

360° Summit Panorama

360° summit panorama from Puig Tomir

Routes

There are two routes onto Puig Tomir, one through the south-west couloir, the other along the east ridge. The trailheads for both are pretty much the same ones, access routes are different. Descriptions start at Lluc Monastery.

• South-west couloir via Coll de sa Font
  This is the normal route to Puig Tomir. Starting from Lluc head west on / beside Ma-2140 past Refugi Son Amer. Head up GR221 which passes Coll de sa Font, Coll Pelot and Coll des Pedregaret.
  
  Here turn right, heading up the mountain first along a stone wall, later into the developping south-west Couloir. Stay above the large scree field, heading towards a cut at its top. Here the couloir proper starts, taking you do a pronounced saddle. Turn right, ascending a uncomfortabbly steep scree chute, which heads toward the crux of the route, a chimney, which is secured by chains. Above the crux the path winds across the karst landscape, heading onto the summit plateau. Turn left towards the summit of Puig Tomir.
  
• South-west couloir via es Pixarells
  Very scenic hike, which heads through an area of bizarre karst formations. From Lluc head out on Ma-2410 until you reach the abandoned sports field. Cross the sports field after which you turn left, steeply ascending to the karst plateau. The famous camel formation (Es Camell) can be visited to the right. Follow the path which heads towards a saddle after which it winds through a valley of rock formations towards the picnic area es Pixarells. Here cross MA-10, heading up a dirt road which leads to Binifaldo and Coll des Pedregaret. The remainder as above.
  
• East ridge via Coll de l'Arena
  Very remote route, which starts at Lluc, heading west on Ma-2410 passing Refugi son Amer and heading to Coll de sa Font. Here turn right onto a dirt road which takes you to Autanella. Right before you reach the farm, at s'Enrocador des Bocs turn left (north-west) to Coll de l'Arena. In the saddle turn north, passing Cava dels Morts and heading up to Coll del Fartaritx. Now up the eastern karst slope towards the summit of Puig Tomir.
  

Getting There

A typical tourist location, the island Mallorca can be best reached by plane. There are flights from virtually every European international airport to Palma de Mallorca. From the island capital the following itinerary leads to the most common trailheads:

• Take motorway Ma-13 from Palma north-east to Inca.
  
• Switch to Ma-2130, direction Lluc Monastery
  
• At the intersection between Ma-2130 and Ma-10 to Polenca turn right onto Ma-10.
  
• The first trailhead is at Lluc Monastery, which you reach from the intersection by following Ma-10 eastwards and later Ma-2140 to the monastery.
  
• For the second trailhead leave Ma-10 at km 17,4 onto a side road, which leads to Menut and Binifaldo
  
• If this road is closed, there is a picnic area some 500m north of the Menut road. From there a hiking path leads to Binifaldo.

Red Tape

No permits required.

When To Climb

You can climb Puig Tomir all year round, however September through May is the best time. Avoid the hot summer months.

Accommodation

Generallly, there are lot of accommodation options on Mallorca, which you can find on the usual portals. Prices, however, are quite high.

Camping is generally not allowed, the land is privately owned. In the vicinity of Puig Tomir there is a campground near Lluc Monastery and a mountain hut, Refugi son Amer close by. The sanctuary itself also provides small rooms ("pilgrim cells") for overnight stay at a moderate price.

Weather Conditions

The right clothing provided, the mountain can be accessed in any weather condition. However, orientation in fog can become very difficult on the karst plateau on top or on the east ridge route.

Maps & Books

There are many publications about hiking on Mallorca. I include the ones which I have used myself as well as recommendations by other SPers. The book by Rolf Götz, which is available in four languages has a good choice of routes, two thirds of them in Serra de Tramuntana. Two routes are dedicated to Massanella.

In particular I want to recommend the book by Marc Schichter & Kirsten Elsner, even though it is only available in German. It comes with an excellent map of Serra de Tramuntana (probably the best available) and lots of routes which can be connected at will.

Maps

• Mallorca
  4 map box set
  Kompass Verlag
  1:35000
  ISBN: 978-3-99044-062-9
  
• Walk Mallorca
  Discovery Walking Guides
  1:40000
  ISBN: 978-3-99044-062-9

Books

• Mallorca
  Rolf Götz
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 978-3-7633-4805-3 (English)
  ISBN: 978-3-7633-4122-1 (German)
  ISBN: 978-3-7633-4923-4 (French)
  ISBN: 978-3-7633-4701-8 (Spanish)
  
• Wandern auf Mallorca
  Marc Schichter & Kirsten Elsner
  Reise Know-How
  ISBN: 978-3-89662-289-1
  
• Walking in Mallorca: Classic Mountain Walks in Mallorca
  June Parker
  Cicerone Press
  ISBN: 978-1852844882

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Images

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