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EIGER NORTH FACE, Successful Firsts
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EIGER NORTH FACE, Successful Firsts

 
EIGER NORTH FACE, Successful Firsts

Page Type: List

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: EIGER NORTH FACE, Successful Firsts

 

Page By: Fred Spicker

Created/Edited: Feb 15, 2006 / May 4, 2009

Object ID: 172514

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Page Score: 83.72%  - 18 Votes 

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EIGER NORTH FACE, The first 10 ascents and some other notable milestones.

Compiled from THE WHITE SPIDER

THE FIRST 10 SUCCESSFUL ASCENTS
(All via the 1938 route)

1) 1938, 21-24 July
Anderl Heckmair & Ludwig Vörg
Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer

2) 1947, 14-16 July
Louis Lachenal & Lionel Terray

3) 1947, 4-5 August
Gottfried Jermann, Hans & Karl Schlunegger

4) 1950, 26 July (The first single day ascent - 18 hours)
Leo Forstenlechner & Erich Waschak

5) 1950, 25-27 July
Jean Fuchs, Marcel Hamel, Raymond Monney, & Robert Seiler

6) 1952, 22-23 July
Maurice Coutin & Pierre Julien

7) 1952, 26-27 July
Sepp Larch & Karl Winter

8) 1952, 26-28 July
Hermann Buhl & Sepp Jöchler
Otto & Sepp Maag
Gaston Rébuffat, Jean Bruneau, Paul Habran, Pierre Leroux, & Guido Magnone

9) 1952, 6-8 August
Karl Lugmayer, Hans Ratay, & Erich Vanis

10) 1952, 14-15 August
Karl Blach & Jürgen Wellenkamp


SOME OTHER NOTABLE ASCENTS

First Winter Ascent:

1961, 6-12 March
Toni Hiebeler with Walter Almberger, Toni Kinshofer, & Anderl Mannhardt (also the 18th ascent)

First Solo Ascent:

1963, 2-3 August
Michel Darbellay (a Swiss Mountain Guide) 18 hours.

The Fiftieth Ascent & First Female Ascent:

1964, 1-3 September
Werner Bittner & Daisy Voog. Daisy Voog was the first successful woman climber.

First New Route
:

1966, 23 February - 25 March: John Harlin Route
Dougal Haston, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel, Roland Votteler, and Siegfried Hupfauer

John Harlin was killed during the ascent when a fixed rope broke.

External Links

Since 1966, there have been numerous successful ascents of the original 1938 route and many new routes have been established on the face. See: Eiger NF routes

Images

Eiger NordWand