SummitPost - South Face, Stanley-Burgner -- Photos, Diagrams & Topos

South Face, Stanley-Burgner

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Shirley nearing the top of the 5.9 flare chimney on pitch 5 of Stanley-Burgner route on south face of Prusik Peak. This was actually quite fun IMHO (good pro helps in making it fun). Lake Viviane is below; McClellan Peak is in the background (June 25, 2006).

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jschrock

LOL

Hasn't voted

Ok, now I'm laughing at myself. My partner led this pitch and found himself suckered waaaaaaay too deep into the chimney - judging from your pics. Turned into a serious grudge-match, beat-down for both of us as a result. Him because he was leading crammed way into the back...me because I had to be able to reach the damn pro while hauling/dragging the pack and completely unnecessary ice axe (my fault for bringing that piece of $%#&ing hardware). Lots of grunting going on as we thrutched our way up that freakin' pitch.

Looks sooooo much more enjoyable the way Shirley is styling it. I need to spend more time in chimneys. Ugh.

cheers. =)

Posted Jul 14, 2008 7:03 pm


	rpc	Re: LOL
	Hasn't voted	A great pitch eh! I think I stayed out as much as I could while still being able to reach in and place gear. I thought this was very similar to this Aries chinney at Index (tho. that one is shorter...tho. arguably slicker...) I also thought this pitch was better than the overhyped final pitch on this line? What did you think of the final summit pitch?
		Posted Jul 15, 2008 11:44 am


	jschrock	Re: LOL
	Hasn't voted	heh - I think I was the opposite. I thought the last pitch was pretty fun - and this pitch was a grunt-fest. Could just be because I climbed it way too deep - the pitch looks cool but my climbing sure didn't. =)
		Posted Jul 15, 2008 1:31 pm