We wanted to climb a couloir, so we picked this one. Just short of the top we ran into cliff bands that we couldn't protect, so we 'downclimbed' a second couloir to the saddle. This quickly turned into a 90deg ice slope, so we rapped off that to the saddle, and then went up the saddle and onto the gentle slopes of the normal route. From there we jaunted up to the summit and then took the long slope back down. 13 hours later, at 10pm, we stumbled into the ranger station where we got a ride to our car, saving us the last 6 miles.