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Western Union
Western Union
Top of Western Union, 5.8, 5 Pitches, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, October 9, 2006
5th Pitch- 50m-5.8/ The most difficult and sustained pitch of Western Union. Two ropes are useful here. “Unnamed” follows the gully to the right and there is a bolted sport route (Pony Express) that follows the outside of the rib to the left. This pitch follows a steep crack with piton straight above the ledge. The route eases up as you reach a significant roof with a bolt squarely below it. Sling a draw to the bolt and move out right onto an exposed rib. Climb a deep crack placing larger gear. This portion is the crux of the route. Move up on blank ground to right below a small roof. Protect in the undercling and use hands to move left under the roof until you are comfortable taking it. The ground is easy above as it bypasses a pinnacle to its left. There is a one bolt belay on a wall right below the summit to your left that can be backed up with a medium sized nut.
Dow Williams
on Oct 18, 2006 11:34 pm
